A case for quarantine

[saltyhog]

I know quarantine of fish, corals and inverts is a touchy subject some times. However, as I was feeding my trio of wrasses in QT I was reminded that there are good reasons to quarantine even beyond eliminating disease. These fish underwent the next to last transfer in my TTM protocol this morning. That means they have been in my system for only 9 days. In that 9 days they have gone from shy....hiding when the lights are on in the room...to rushing the front of the tank anytime I approach now. And that was after the "trauma" of transfer just this morning.

QT can not only reduce infectious disease/parasites it can help acclimate your fish to tank life and teach them to associate you with food and safety. It can improve the nutritional status of your fish and maximize their chance to compete for food in the DT. It also makes them much easier to catch if the need arises. I recently moved and none of the 17 fish in my tank were difficult to catch in my trap. Many swam in the trap before I could even put bait in it.

I know wrasse are pretty bold and not difficult to acclimate but the same process has been successful for species that aren't so bold.

Those that QT, add other benefits that you have noted.

 

[saltyhog]

Oops, forgot the video from tonight.

 

[ca1ore]

I have noted for many years over on that other forum that the benefits of 'conditioning' a new fish in QT may actually outweigh disease prevention. Asking a new fish, stressed and often malnourished from the collection and transportation process, to survive potential aggression from an established population of fish is frankly foolish. I've got a number of fish in my tank that are thriving that would have been CUC food had I not availed them of a period of QT.

 

[Deinonych]

I have noted for many years over on that other forum that the benefits of 'conditioning' a new fish in QT may actually outweigh disease prevention. Asking a new fish, stressed and often malnourished from the collection and transportation process, to survive potential aggression from an established population of fish is frankly foolish. I've got a number of fish in my tank that are thriving that would have been CUC food had I not availed them of a period of QT.

I agree 100%. An acclimation box is especially helpful for introducing new fish to an established population.

 

[Humblefish]

^^ Agree with all of the above. My wife jokes that all my fish develop "Stockholm Syndrome" whilst in QT. It sure makes for some friendly fish once I put them in the DT!

For those who have an aversion to prophylactic use of medications: Your new fish will still greatly benefit from just rest and conditioning (thru proper nutrition) in QT. Before being added to a DT full of fish less than thrilled about the new guy's arrival.

 

[Daniel@R2R]

Great points!

 

[revhtree]

Nice thread and reminder!

 

[Scott.h]

Are you just using the hang on the back filter for filtration? Without Live rock do you monitor ammonia? Do you do big water changes? Do you leave that tank run all the time or just set it up for new arrivals?

Just wondering because my QT has a full wet dry and it's kind of a hassle having it going all the time. I'd like simpler but I've always been scared to set something up quick that isn't established.

Oops, forgot the video from tonight.

 

[saltyhog]

The fish in that video are in one of my Tank Transfer Method tanks which is my chosen method of preventing Ich (also used it to cure Ich). Those tanks are uncycled as the fish are only in them for 3 days before moving to the next tank. I do monitor ammonia either with a test kit or the ammonia badge...you can see it in the video. The HOB contains filter floss changed daily to try and remove detritus before it breaks down. The HOB is mainly there for water movement and aeration as I find it easier to dry and disinfect than a power head. An air stone is another option that could just be thrown away. I just think some fish appreciate the water movement.

The QT I use after that is a 29 gallon and is permanently running. It has a couple of pieces of live rock that never leaves there. Most of the filtration is ceramic media stuffed in the HOB filter. I use an Aqua Clear by Fluval and it's sized for a 70 gallon tank. I choose to treat with Prazipro there though many people do it in the TTM tanks with good success. My reasoning is Prazi can supress appetite a little and if they are eating well and fat when they get there they can tolerate that better. No copper ever goes in the permanent QT tank.

 

[Bmartinez76]

I just bought a flame wrasse harem (super male and 2 hotties). I'm so glad I did the QT thing because shortly after the male had a white spot. I treated it and it's now gone. So glad I didn't infect my main tank. You make a very good point in that when I first got them, they were skittish and now they just love coming up to be fed. I personally think the whole human feeding acclimation will make for an easier main tank transfer In a few weeks.

 

[ca1ore]

Are you just using the hang on the back filter for filtration? Without Live rock do you monitor ammonia? Do you do big water changes? Do you leave that tank run all the time or just set it up for new arrivals?

Just wondering because my QT has a full wet dry and it's kind of a hassle having it going all the time. I'd like simpler but I've always been scared to set something up quick that isn't established.

Easy enough to maintain a 'reservoir' of biomedia on your main display (I keep a cannister full of rings) and use it as needed on a QT. I don't run mine continuously, just when needed.

 

[ca1ore]

I agree 100%. An acclimation box is especially helpful for introducing new fish to an established population.

I actually think my fish may be playing with me. Recently added a new fish in my acclimation box; they ignored it. Let it out and they beat the hell out of it.

 

[Scott.h]

Easy enough to maintain a 'reservoir' of biomedia on your main display (I keep a cannister full of rings) and use it as needed on a QT. I don't run mine continuously, just when needed.

thats actually a really good idea. I'm running 3 systems at home, and one at work. I'd really like to dump the 40. Just keeping bio balls in my sump like you said would cure that. Thanks

 

[seastar]

I just bought a flame wrasse harem (super male and 2 hotties). I'm so glad I did the QT thing because shortly after the male had a white spot. I treated it and it's now gone. So glad I didn't infect my main tank. You make a very good point in that when I first got them, they were skittish and now they just love coming up to be fed. I personally think the whole human feeding acclimation will make for an easier main tank transfer In a few weeks.

Were you doing TTM or cp/copper? I want to do TTM but am not sure if you're supposed to abandon it if/when you confirm ick and move on to copper.

 

[Bmartinez76]

I used polyp medic for 10 days. Running some carbon and will do another 10 days to be sure it's gone.

 

[Deinonych]

I actually think my fish may be playing with me. Recently added a new fish in my acclimation box; they ignored it. Let it out and they beat the hell out of it.

Ha ha...sounds VERY familiar.

 

[Deinonych]

Were you doing TTM or cp/copper? I want to do TTM but am not sure if you're supposed to abandon it if/when you confirm ick and move on to copper.

Copper is not necessary if you are doing TTM, regardless of whether crypto has been confirmed. TTM is effective as both a preventative and a cure, as it breaks the parasite's life cycle. I stopped using copper years ago since TTM is so much more effective.

 

[saltyhog]

Were you doing TTM or cp/copper? I want to do TTM but am not sure if you're supposed to abandon it if/when you confirm ick and move on to copper.

No need to abandon TTM if the fish has Ich. If it looks ok, not having labored breathing and is active I'd just proceed with TTM. It actually is faster than copper as I recall 4 weeks is the recommended length for copper treatment (vs 12 days for TTM). If the fish is in trouble you could consider a fresh water dip to try to reduce the parasite load on the gills. If the fish is "too sick for TTM" he likely isn't going to survive any threatment...IMO....YMMV. :D

While I haven't used it @Humblefish is an expert on using Chloraquine phosphate to treat ich and has threads on the fish disease forum about it.


Deinonych is faster than me!

 

[Humblefish]

Chloroquine phosphate is especially useful for treating velvet; which is running rampant right now and unfortunately TTM does not address.

More info on Chloroquine phosphate here.

 

[dochow]

Great write up! I agree with all the above about benefits of QT for both acclimation and limiting disease transmission.

I recently went though this process over the past 2 months with a carpenter Wrasse, sunburst anthia and spotted mandarin Goby and all did great.

We're eating well and fattened them up through TTM and QT.

The only think I would do differently is make sure you use an acclimation box for a day or two when introduced to DT.

My Kole Tang was a bully.

It took 3-4 days for Wrasse to come around out of hiding. He now swims freely.

It took almost 10 days for sunburst anthia to come out of hiding, but he/she now swims in open but close to his hiding cave.

I think an acclimation box would have helped all the new fish as well as the old incumbents in the tank get introduced to each other for a less stressful introduction.