After months of research need HELP setting up my first 120 gallon saltwater tank

[Reefacist]

Hi You ALL,

I have been reading, watching youtube vids, reading more, watching more videos, day and night, home and at work. Pretty much the last 3 months i have been all about saltwater fish tanks. At first i was looking at buying a 50 gallon tank bc i read that its the best beginner tank. Then while waiting for Petco's $/gallon sale i started looking at OfferUp for used tanks as i had been researching and learned a lot about tank restoration. Looking and looking led me to purchase a 120 gallon tank (4'x2'x2') that was set up as a fresh water tank. The tank has a left corner weir/overflow set up that is a tower top to bottom with a 2.5inch hole on the bottom corner of the tank (probably for a durso overflow). It also has two 1" holes drilled on the top (one next to the weir and the other on the other end) that were being used as 2 returns from the freshwater sump.

So far i cleaned, cleaned, cleaned and cleaned the tank until it was sparkling clean. I removed the back blue paint and will be painting it black (using Rust-Oleum black recommened by BRS) soon. Also painted the stand from the light brown to a matte black finish using Home Depot's Behr matte black paint with moisture protection. I will also be redoing the silicone seal on the inside and bought 2 tubes of 10oz GE silicone 1 clear silicone. I am thinking of doing this after overflow set up is decided and completed.

So still have to decide on:
1. Proper overflow to purchase a new Weir as some teeth are broken from the old one and it is only 5x5.5inches (i think too small for a 120gallon). This is where i need the most help now. I was leaning toward taking the current weir off and ordering a larger total top to bottom weir. I was leaning toward a Herbie overflow (due to simplicity over BA) and I would use the current 2.5inch hole and add another hole to add the main and emergency overflows. I am still considering to just drill a third hole and do a BA.
Another idea i recently had since i have to remove the Weir is to just close that hole on the bottom and instil a box overflow. I would use one of the 1" holes for a main drain and add another 1.25" for an emerigency drain(also possibly another hole for a BA if needed). Would 1" drain be enough for the main overflow? What do you guys think...should i use the bottom hole and add another hole or close the hole and do an overflow from the back glass? My reason for that would be becuase i think it is more pleasing to the eye rather than havin a big Weir top to bottom since i have to change it anyway. One 1" return should be enough right? And closing the 2.5inch hole shouldnt be an issue right?

next:
tubing, sump, pump, overflow, wavemakers, lights and the works

Thanks guys. So excited about this especially coming from a guy without much experience with painting or plumbing.

Lets do this

 

[Anchor]

I dont know what answer I would pick from your list.. I am leaning towards the Eclipse box with 2 holes drilled in back of tank. I might construct a new piece and put it over the broken part your your weir. I might then drill the weir so use it for return lines.. One out from each side... put the new overflow at the opposite end or near middle. I have seeen someone that actually had the corners of their 180 as returns and used one side to hatch brine shrimp in that would slowly release them into the tank.. They then placed a long ghost style weir in the middle.

I now see you already have returns in the back of tank.. Hmmm.. more thinking. Close loop maybe?

 

[Reefacist]

I dont know what answer I would pick from your list.. I am leaning towards the Eclipse box with 2 holes drilled in back of tank. I might construct a new piece and put it over the broken part your your weir. I might then drill the weir so use it for return lines.. One out from each side... put the new overflow at the opposite end or near middle. I have seeen someone that actually had the corners of their 180 as returns and used one side to hatch brine shrimp in that would slowly release them into the tank.. They then placed a long ghost style weir in the middle.

I now see you already have returns in the back of tank.. Hmmm.. more thinking. Close loop maybe?

Ya im thinking of replacing the weir...its old and crappy. I dont wanna waste time on fixing it. In the big scheme of things what another $50-100. I like the look of the ghost but i would rather not have a box of water outside the tank. I think one return is enough. IDK going crazy here trying to decide. I have a very picky and am a little OCD so its hard to make a decision lol

 

[Anchor]

I guess the option then .. for me.. is a second one in the opposite corner.. though it looks like you have a second return ther. You might include it in that second weir and pass it out the side of it.

 

[slojim]

maybe tear out the overflow box and either seal the hole and drill one more in the back, or use that with a 1" black painted PVC tube that serves as your emergency drain - then use the other 2 holes as a siphon and open channel.
regarding the stand, it looks great, but I think you'd be happier with a white or bright colored interior - I find it makes a big difference trying to see in there - dark colors soak up the available light. You might also want to consider making the bottom a waterproof pan somehow. In my case, the doors are not all the way to the bottom, so I had a few inches of freeboard to seal. In your case, you could add a strip, or find a pan that might fit. Something will overflow someday, and its nice to keep it contained.

 

[Reefacist]

I guess the option then .. for me.. is a second one in the opposite corner.. though it looks like you have a second return ther. You might include it in that second weir and pass it out the side of it.

anchor,

you mean have two separate weirs with 2 separate drains and piping? Idk is that too much plumbing for not a real benefit. I’m leaning towards buying a bigger weir box and adding another hole on the bottom and turning it into a herbie but I would have to close one of the return holes because it’s too close.
Or...can I enclose the return hole nearest the overflow and use that as my main drain for a herbie? Basically just buy a bigger box and put it around the hole on the back panel. That way the 2.5 hole will be the emergency drain and the one on the back panel will be the primary drain. but that may be too small. I wonder if it’s easy to make a hole bigger but I assume not

 

[Anchor]

Actually, I have made a hole bigger.. Glass hole saws, though, dont have a centering mechanism. You just have to drill it around the existing hole.

Benefit of having 2 weirs is that detritus has 2 ways to get out, rather than trying to funnel it to one location.. I think it is more efficient personally. I have been looking at 120's for a couple years.. I like either the ghost box or the double weir. Double will make it look. well to me, a more balanced a view and again to me, more efficient drainage.

Not taking away your idea but a 120 to me should have 2 returns.. Not required obviously, just my opinion. You are going to want to return fast enough to keep a decent flow through your box(s) If you keep SPS also, as most of us do or want to, You get the benefit of a more variable flow.

It is up to you in the end.. But for a 120, I like double drains or a very large one. Though I dont mind the box on the back..

Something I just thought of is that the pulumbing under the tank does not have to be hard PVC.. it is pretty easy to use vinyl tubing or braided vinyl..

 

[Anchor]

Have you ever drilled glass holes before? It is actually really easy..

 

[Anchor]

maybe tear out the overflow box and either seal the hole and drill one more in the back, or use that with a 1" black painted PVC tube that serves as your emergency drain - then use the other 2 holes as a siphon and open channel.
regarding the stand, it looks great, but I think you'd be happier with a white or bright colored interior - I find it makes a big difference trying to see in there - dark colors soak up the available light. You might also want to consider making the bottom a waterproof pan somehow. In my case, the doors are not all the way to the bottom, so I had a few inches of freeboard to seal. In your case, you could add a strip, or find a pan that might fit. Something will overflow someday, and its nice to keep it contained.

I agree on the white or bright inside.. Mine is black and without a light. it is near impossible to see inside to look at the sump.

 

[Reefacist]

I agree on the white or bright inside.. Mine is black and without a light. it is near impossible to see inside to look at the sump.

Hey Anchor,

Thanks for all the great input. To answer the easy one first...never thought about the inside color just wanted a black stand but maybe I’ll buy some wallpaper.
As far as the double weir I’m thinking maybe I do a double and have one set as a 2nd emergency only and the other a herbie( in essence almost a BA). What’s your take on that? Then that’ll give me some symmetry on both end but would be like a 8x5 box on both ends so it’ll take up a lot of room.
I will look into the ghost design a bit more. I was thinking of just putting a drain in the center only but the returns are not symmetrical from both ends. Maybe with the plastic I can move them and make them look symmetric. Idk I just wanna decide and move forward.
I haven’t drilled glass before but watched a lot of vids and it looks pretty easy

 

[Reefacist]

Or were u saying set up two separate herbie’s. That’ll be like 4 pipes draining and too much happening I think in the sump

 

[Reefacist]

Actually, I have made a hole bigger.. Glass hole saws, though, dont have a centering mechanism. You just have to drill it around the existing hole.

Benefit of having 2 weirs is that detritus has 2 ways to get out, rather than trying to funnel it to one location.. I think it is more efficient personally. I have been looking at 120's for a couple years.. I like either the ghost box or the double weir. Double will make it look. well to me, a more balanced a view and again to me, more efficient drainage.

Not taking away your idea but a 120 to me should have 2 returns.. Not required obviously, just my opinion. You are going to want to return fast enough to keep a decent flow through your box(s) If you keep SPS also, as most of us do or want to, You get the benefit of a more variable flow.

It is up to you in the end.. But for a 120, I like double drains or a very large one. Though I dont mind the box on the back..

Something I just thought of is that the pulumbing under the tank does not have to be hard PVC.. it is pretty easy to use vinyl tubing or braided vinyl..

Anchor I have been looking at those slim boxes and I gotta say I'm loving them. Im not sure why I hadn't seen them before and why BRS or other major youtubbers haven't covered them. I couldn't find where to order the "ghost" overflow. I emailed the guys at reef supply to see how to order. I also found: eshopps eclipse L, marine depot elite, and exotic marine systems version. I think I will listen to your advice and go with one fo these. Only issue is I would put it dead center and the pipes would turn a little to get to the sump (not a direct straight shot) but the sump is right under so shouldn't be a big deal I hope. Kind of excited about this now.

Also a side note I just wanna make sure this is ok. I will be sealing the bottom hole (2.5inches). Would that be an issue? Anyone seal a hole that size on the bottom of their tank?

 

[Beau_B]

I would recommend the external overflow. Modular Marine and Fiji Cube are additional options beyond the ones you already discovered.

Use the two existing holes in back for returns (as they were).

Cap off the bottom hole isn’t and issue, just silicone down a good piece of glass over it. There are plenty of threads with people eliminating corner overflows. Another option if you don’t want to source glass is to use a threaded bulkhead with a standard male pvc threaded plug. Think of it like a drain plug.

As a last note, you mentioned the possibility of adding another hole in the bottom if maintaining the corner overflow and I have to say it’s highly likely that it is a tempered bottom pane and NOT drill-able. Appears to be a Oceanic tank by my eye. Nice tanks and front panel is low iron if so.

 

[Anchor]

@Beau_B, I had not thought of what brand tank it might have been.. possibly a good catch.. Yes, most Oceanics had tempered bottoms. many, like the one I have, is Every Pane of glass is tempered. I forget how to test for this but I did read on R2R somewhere how to check them.

Yes, just silicon a piece of glass right over the top of the hole.. at least a quarter inch thick glass. half inch if you can find a peice. Make sure it is pure silicon with no mildew additives..

Fiji Cube uses Metric fittings.. something to consider..

 

[Anchor]

I would recommend the external overflow. Modular Marine and Fiji Cube are additional options beyond the ones you already discovered.

Use the two existing holes in back for returns (as they were).

Cap off the bottom hole isn’t and issue, just silicone down a good piece of glass over it. There are plenty of threads with people eliminating corner overflows. Another option if you don’t want to source glass is to use a threaded bulkhead with a standard male pvc threaded plug. Think of it like a drain plug.

As a last note, you mentioned the possibility of adding another hole in the bottom if maintaining the corner overflow and I have to say it’s highly likely that it is a tempered bottom pane and NOT drill-able. Appears to be a Oceanic tank by my eye. Nice tanks and front panel is low iron if so.

Just had a look and I dont recall Oceanic having black trim. it also looks like the center brace. AND a side brace?? might have been added.

@Reefacist - does the trim where the center brace is Look rough like there might have been a plastic brace across the center and been replaced by glass?

 

[Beau_B]

My Oceanic (2004) is black trim. There is a sticker on the bottom listing it as tempered. Back is not, I drilled.

Test involves polarized glasses and a lcd screen.

 

[Reefacist]

I would recommend the external overflow. Modular Marine and Fiji Cube are additional options beyond the ones you already discovered.

Use the two existing holes in back for returns (as they were).

Cap off the bottom hole isn’t and issue, just silicone down a good piece of glass over it. There are plenty of threads with people eliminating corner overflows. Another option if you don’t want to source glass is to use a threaded bulkhead with a standard male pvc threaded plug. Think of it like a drain plug.

As a last note, you mentioned the possibility of adding another hole in the bottom if maintaining the corner overflow and I have to say it’s highly likely that it is a tempered bottom pane and NOT drill-able. Appears to be a Oceanic tank by my eye. Nice tanks and front panel is low iron if so.

Wow. Looked at those too and now it’s hard to pick which one to purchase. From reading I think I’ll eliminate the shadow box. The ghost although is nice I think might be pointless to pay that much. I read a lot of people complaining about the eshopps too but still considering that. So I’m I guess between the eshopps essence L, marine and fiji.
Here is the pic of the glass piece. The tank is made by a company called Elite here in Southern California but I wasn’t the one who ordered the tank. There is a test to do with polarized glasses that can tell you if it’s tempered or not. Which I will try soon.
Thanks for the input you all. Any preference on which external overflow box to go with?

 

[Anchor]

I have both an Eshopps medium and a Fiji.. my preference is the Eshopps. Both have 1 inch bulkhead openings and the FIji I had to trim the bulkheads to get them to fit in the bottom of the box. That itself caused problems.. They may have changed designs since 2018 though. 2018 was a bad year for Fijicube stuff/packaged systems, especially the cheap lights and pumps they put in them. Everything is metric thread too even today I think, so you would have to get metric to standard PVC couple to use standard PVC plumbing.

Thank You @Beau_B for the info.. My Oceanic is oak trimmed from the mid 80's The thing is built like a tank.

 

[Reefacist]

I have both an Eshopps medium and a Fiji.. my preference is the Eshopps. Both have 1 inch bulkhead openings and the FIji I had to trim the bulkheads to get them to fit in the bottom of the box. That itself caused problems.. They may have changed designs since 2018 though. 2018 was a bad year for Fijicube stuff/packaged systems, especially the cheap lights and pumps they put in them. Everything is metric thread too even today I think, so you would have to get metric to standard PVC couple to use standard PVC plumbing.

Thank You @Beau_B for the info.. My Oceanic is oak trimmed from the mid 80's The thing is built like a tank.

Interesting. Trimming the bulkheads? Never heard that one. Ya I was also reading that I may have to cut the trim on the aquarium a little so the water line won’t show. Idk hopefully I’ll decide by end of the weekend and order one to move on to the next step.
Anyone else with any preference to external overflow boxes?

 

[Beau_B]

I have a Fiji. I used a shim on the back to hold it out away from the rim. It works great.

I were to do it over I would get at least the 1200 (two hole) of whatever company. My 800 can rotate and get out of level if bumped. Bit of an annoyance.

From my reading it’s all minor differences, can’t go wrong.