Automatic Calcium Reactor Controller (ACR)

Dennis Cartier

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This thread is provide a walk through for building an automatic calcium reactor controller for the Aquarium Engineering ACR line of CaRx's, though it will work with other CaRx's, like my DIY (Schuran) Jetstream stlye automatic Calcium Reactor

History

The AE ACR is a line of CaRx that use a float switch to regulate the addition of CO2 in a similar way to the Dastaco and Deltec units. This allows them to operate in saturation mode, dissolving CO2 into the water column until the saturation point is achieved, and no more CO2 will dissolve. This eliminates the need for a pH probe and bubble counter and makes them automatic. The only adjustment required of the user is how much flow through the CaRx to set the supplementation level.

AE recently ceased operations and the ACR units have been orphaned. As well the factory controllers have an abysmal track record of failing after about a year of operation. When I experienced this firsthand, I decided to design a replacement controller that addressed the shortcomings of the factory version.

The v1 design just used a Clippard EV Mouse valve inline with the float switch. This is the same valve used in the Carbon Doser and in my CO2 Tank Auto Switcher.

The v2 design added an IFM pressure sensor to provide feedback on the pressure the CaRx was running at. I found the pressure sensors by chance while searching Ebay for a pressure switch for my phosphate reactor. These are pressure sensors, used widely in the automation industry, and offer programmable outputs, and extreme reliability.

The v3 design added auto venting to the controller.

The v4 design is the one being discussed here.

The v4 Controller

For the v4 model, the method of operation is all new, and does not operate like the factory controller at all. All the previous designs, followed the factory pattern of feeding the CaRx from a dedicated pump or manifold, metering the effluent out using a peristaltic pump, with the float switch directly controlling the CO2 valve. The v2 and v3 models used an IFM pressure sensor to limit the pressure that would be allowed before closing the Clippard valve and preventing the reactor from going over a set pressure.

For the v4, we are moving to an IFM pressure sensor that offers 2 outputs. This allows us to use one output to control the addition of CO2, and the second output controls the addition of feed water using a peristaltic pump. This makes the CaRx into a sealed pressure vessel, and allows for the operation of the CaRx to be based on pressure changes. This brings some interesting benefits. By raising the pressure above atmospheric, we can raise the CO2 saturation level of the water column, allowing higher flow rates while maintaining the effluent strength. By allowing the operating pressure to be adjustable, we can adjust how strong the effluent is. This also allows us to affect how fast supplementation can be provided.

The programmable outputs on the IFM gives us the tools to setup an operation cycle for the CaRx. As the CO2 is dissolved, the pressure inside the reactor will drop. As it drops and hits the preset we have chosen for CO2 addition (rP1), the IFM will enable output1 allowing the addition of CO2. When the water level is below the float valve level, CO2 will be prevented from being added, so the lower preset of the feed pump output2 will trip (rP2), adding water into the reactor, raising the water level until the float valve closes and allows CO2 to be added. The newly added water raises the pressure inside the reactor as its being added, as the gas pocket is getting smaller, but it also dissolves CO2, lowering the pressure. The end of the cycle, is when the water level gets high enough to close the float valve, allowing the CO2 to be added, which trips the preset to halt the water addition (sP2), and the preset to disable CO2 addition (sP1). The cycle then repeats.

The hardware used in this build is sourced from the automation industry. This gives us the accuracy, reliability, and durability that we would never see if we were using components from the aquarium hobby. To do this in a budget friendly way, we are using some discontinued models, that are no longer available new, but are plentiful in the used and surplus markets. Because they were widely used in industry, equipment is constantly being broken down that contain them. So monitoring Ebay for a short period of time, typically presents lots of good candidates for them.

We are using a Clippard valve for CO2 metering, which is also used by the Carbon Doser, and is available new, directly from Clippard, and is not expensive.

The controller requires two continuous duty peristaltic pumps to operate. One for the effluent, and the other for the feed water. These cannot be dosing pumps as they will not handle the pressures involved or the continuous duty required. Either Masterflex or a couple models of Kamoer pumps are recommended. They must have an adjustable flow rate and keep their settings after a power cycle. The controller does offer the ability to interface directly to a Masterflex remote port for pump control.

The IFM Pressure Sensor

There area a couple of different models of IFM sensors that can be used in the v4 controller. The main requirements are that it must support 2 outputs, and offer a pressure adjustment in < 1 PSI increments. They are all programmed in the same manner and use the same configuration data. Configuring and making adjustments is quite simple, once you get the hang of it.

The 2 model numbers that work best for our controller are PN7007 and PN7207. They offer adjustments in 0.1 psi increments and and have a measuring range from 0 to 14.5 psi. The next best models are PN7006 and PN7206. They offer adjustments in 0.2 psi increments and and have a measuring range from 0 to 36.3 psi. The last models that will work are PN7009 and PN7209. They offer adjustments in 0.2 psi increments and and have a measuring range from -14.5 to 14.5 psi. Other models of IFM sensor may work, but are not recommended, as they will likely impact the operation of the controller. The sensors use an off the shelf cable, that is inexpensive, and is available online (Automation Direct).

Programming the IFM sensor requires stepping through a menu structure using a push button, and then adjusting specific settings using a second button. For proper operation of the controller, the settings must adhere to the following:

sP1 > sP2 > rP1 > rP2

Example Configuration: sP1=5.0, sP2=4.8, rP1=4.2, rP2=4.0

sP = Set Point
rP = Reset Point

The IFM outputs are configured for hysteresis, normally closed (Hnc). They are energized until the psi reaches the set point, then are de-energized, until the psi drops to the reset point.

Note, the following is not necessary to know or understand to use or configure the controller, and is provided for those that want to understand the relationship between pressure and volume changes during reactor operation

The differential between rP2 - sP2 is important and must be large enough to allow enough time for the feed pump to overcome the effluent pumps flow rate and raise the water level far enough to trigger the float valve. A difference of 0.6 - 0.8 psi is sufficient for the pressure range 4.0 - 5.0 psi. As the target pressures are increased, the difference required shrinks. This is the effect of Boyle's Law. So we can easily calculate how much volume change a given pressure difference will provide with the formula P1V1 = P2V2. For example, with the pressure settings of 4.8 and 4.0 psi and a volume of 100 at 4.8 psi, the volume at 4.0 would be 120, an increase of 20% (4.8 / 4.0 * 100 = 120). As the pressures involved rise, the percentage of volume change required decreases.

This also highlights why the IFM models that only offer 1 psi adjustments are not suitable. Using 6.0 and 4.0 psi (sP1=7.0,sP2=6.0,rP1=5.0,rP2=4.0) we would get 6 / 4 * 100 = 150, needing a 50% change in volume to hit the lower preset. We would have to operate at double the pressure, 10 psi, to achieve the same volume of change that the smaller pressure range required (sP1=5.0,sP2=4.8,rP1=4.2,rP2=4.0). The percentage of volume change required to advance the cycle is affected by this, and will affect the reactor's ability to keep up with high demand tanks. Using the IFM sensors that offer the smaller adjustment range limits keeps the required volume changes reasonable and improves cycle response.

In practice, that is not quite the whole story though, as the pressure of the gas pocket will be constantly decreasing as CO2 is dissolved into the water column, without changing the volume of the pocket. The ratio of the pressure change attributable to CO2 being dissolved will be impacted by how fully saturated the water column is at that point.

Other Hardware

The IFM pressure sensor has to be installed after the check valve in the v4 design. So a protective membrane is required to allow the sensor to sense the pressure, without coming into contact with the saltwater. These are commonly called a gauge guard. For this we use the Plast-o-matic GGMT1-PV. This is a discontinued part, but is commonly found on Ebay, usually as NIB (New In Box), off the shelf surplus. Where possible, it is best to get a NIB part for this to give peace of mind that nothing harmful has come into contact with the membrane that will be exposed to the reactor water.

The CO2 is metered by a Clippard EV Mouse valve (ET-2-24). This can be purchased new, along with a connection cable (ET-C48) directly from Clippard or one of their distributors.

The reactor will need to be vented to exchange the accumulated gas, for fresh, pure CO2. Depending on flow rate, this will be required from weekly to daily. To automate the process, a 3-way isolation valve is required. The best candidate for this is the Neptune Research 648T032 . This valve operates at 24VDC, has 1/8" NPT ports, and a large enough orifice (3.0 mm). Again Ebay will be required to find one. They are not as common as the IFM and Plast-o-matic parts, so some patience may be required. The even less common 648K032 and T648K032 parts will also work. It is unlikely that you will find these as NIB parts, so be sure to inspect the PTFE valve surfaces for any residues and give the valve surfaces a rinse with RODI just to be safe.

When purchasing the IFM, Plast-o-matic and Neptune Research parts, I consider $50 each to be a good price, and anything under $50, is a good deal. For the Neptune Research valve, you may have to go higher, say up to $100, to secure one.

Venting the CaRx

Periodic venting of used CO2 is required to maintain consistent effluent strength. How often you vent, depends on the flow rate through the reactor. The higher the flow rate, the more frequent venting is required.

The controller supports both manual and automatic venting. For manual venting, a manual 3-way valve is inserted into the CO2 re-circulation line, between the cap and the venturi valve. The valve and the vent switch in the controller allow the controller to be put into vent mode.

For automatic venting, the vent switch is replaced with a relay, and an electronic 3-way is installed in the CO2 re-circulation line. A timer can be used to energize the relay and 3-way to allow the venting process to proceed. This can also be driven externally from an Apex or other tank controller by energizing the 3-way and providing 24 VDC into the vent port of the controller to energize the relay.

The venting process is also used for reactor startup to force all air from the system. Once the venting line is expelling water, discontinue venting and the controller will establish the CO2 pocket.

The v4 Circuit Diagram



ACR Controller v4 PDF

Photos of the example build be posted as they become available.
 
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Dennis Cartier

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Wiring the Controller

In the example build and the builds I undertake myself, I am following a design based on a DIN rail, with ferrules crimped on each wire, and DIN contacts for cross connecting and grouping. This allows for a (potentially) neater installation and the ability to easily expand or modify the configuration at a later date. I have also assembled a wiring appendix to provide a cross reference between wire colour and ferrule colour to make online support based on photos easier. It also makes debugging easier for the local builder, as you can visually determine the origin of a wire.

If your build differs from the base example, and it definitely will if you add optional elements, then creating your own wire appendix for it is still a good idea and will help you in the future or when discussing with others.

The wiring appendix is here: ACR v4 Controller wire appendix

External Ports

For the example build, and a good suggestion for all builds, we are using 2.1mm x 5.5mm female panel mount jacks. This standardizes the power, CO2, float switch, feed pump, and venting ports. So that they may be easily extended using off the shelf M/F 2.1mm x 5.5mm cables. This allows the controller to be located remotely from the CaRx reactor if need be. The IFM cable is also easily extended using off the shelf M/F extension cables.

The ports are also colour coded (with stick on dots), and match the ferrule colour by function.
  • Red = Power Port
  • Yellow = CO2 Port
  • Blue = Float Switch Port
  • Green = Feed Pump Port
  • White = Vent Port
Tools Required

A good quality stripper is recommended to get clean strips that do not slice in to the stripped wires. I favour the Klein strippers, but others work equally well.

I recommend a decent quality hexagonal crimper. This is used to crimp the wire ferrules on to the wires. Here is an example from my local Amazon Hexagonal Crimper.

DIN Rail Parts Required

  • A selection of wire ferrules for 22 awg & 18 awg in Red, Blue, Black, White, Yellow, and Green. These can be tedious to find in small enough quantities. I purchased a mixed bag of 1000 parts for 5 of the colours from Ebay, and had to find the white ones in the 2 sizes separately.
  • DIN rail. A 35 mm DIN rail small enough to fit within your chosen project box.
  • DIN contacts, grounding terminals, DIN block ends
  • (5) 2.1mm x 5.5mm female panel mount jacks - For Power, CO2, Float Switch, Feed Pump and Venting
I strongly suggest the Dinkle DK2.5N parts be used exclusively for din rail components. Other, cheaper brands, often suffer from quality issues.

DIN Rail Terminal Block

This is the terminal block configuration for a v4 controller that supports manual venting, or venting driven from an external 24VDC power source. The contacts with a mixed yellow and green colour are grounding contacts that use the DIN rail as a common ground. The almond contacts are each separate 2 position contacts. The red jumper allows 2 adjacent contacts to be shorted together forming a larger common block of contacts.

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Contact PinDescriptionContact PinDescription
1IFM Ground (Pin 4 Blue)2PS 2.1x5.5mm Ground
3IFM 24VDC (Pin 1 Brown)4PS 2.1x5.5mm 24VDC
5Vent Switch/Relay6IFM Output 1 (Pin 3 Black)
7Vent Switch/Relay8Float Switch
9Clippard Valve10Float Switch
1112Valve Open LED (+)
13IFM Output 2 (Pin 3 White)14Feed Pump (+)
15Clippard Valve16Feed Pump (-)
17Vent Switch Ground (-)18Valve Open LED (-)
 
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Using the wiring appendix and connection table above, the wired terminal block looks like this.

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If you compared the PDF of the circuit diagram (earlier in the thread) to the wired terminal block, you will see it is a direct translation from circuit to the wiring. The image below has added shading to map the terminals to the respective function by their port colour.

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For the observant, the wires in terminal 5 & 7 should have been swapped for the sake of clarity in the photos. Electrically they are interchangeable, but the red wire with blue ferrule should be on the terminal that has the red wire and blue ferrule on the other end, to associate it with the float switch. I only noticed after I took all the photos.
 
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Dennis Cartier

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It is easy to modify the basic terminal block to add other options.

In this configuration, we remove the manual vent switch, and replace it with a SPST 24VDC relay. The relay is powered with an external 24VDC signal through the Vent Port. A 3-way or other valve would be driven externally (from a tank controller) to vent the CO2 re-circulation line and energize the internal relay.

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In the same way, the feed pump can be driven from a relay to interface to a Masterflex remote port, or to directly switch the power for a Kamoer pump using a pigtail plugged into the Feed Pump port.

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You can continue to add devices onto the DIN rail, space permitting.
 
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Finally, we have a configuration that includes automatic venting, driven by a dedicated 24VDC timer. This required the basic terminal block to be extended with 3 extra terminals, and an extra ground terminal. We short 1 of the added terminals to the terminal carrying 24VDC, and short the other 2 added terminals together to fan out the 24VDC signal coming from the timer NO port to the internal relay and out to the Vent Port.


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Continuing with the example build ...

The following project box was selected for this build



To help with the spacing of the external ports, a jig was used to make the pilot holes. followed by a step drill to enlarge the ports to size. This particular example, for a forum member, foregoes the vent switch as they are planning to use automatic venting.

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The cables are inserted for the IFM sensor, 24VDC power supply port, CO2 port, float valve port, feed pump port, venting port, and valve open LED.

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This specific build is using 2 DIN relays, 1 for automatic venting, and another for power cycling the feed pump. Note, the relays are flipped from previous photos for simpler wire routing.

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Close-ups of the contact positions.

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The ports are identified with colour coded dots. Red = 24 VDC, Yellow = CO2 (Clippard valve), Blue = Float Switch, Green = Feed Pump.

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The remaining steps include constructing a few custom cables, and preparing the IFM sensor for the controller. More photos to come.
 
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OK, we are in the home stretch of the build now.

Custom Cables

For the example build, we are making a Clippard ET-C48 cable to a DC power jack (2.1 x 5.5 mm), a cable with a SP13 2 connector plug to a DC power jack (2.1 x 5.5 mm), and a DC power jack (2.1 x 5.5 mm) to a Male/Female for the feed pump.

Below, we have the finished ends, and an example of the end that was soldered on for the DC power jacks. The float switch cable, uses an SP13 style connector and plugs directly into the ACR float switch cable.

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The Clippard valve cable.

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The float switch cable.

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The feed pump pigtail. In this case intended to power a Kamoer FX-STP pump. Fingers crossed that I guessed the right DC power barrel plug dimensions (2.1 x 5.5 mm).

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Preparing the IFM Sensor

To prepare the IFM sensor to be used in the controller, we need to mount it in the Plast-o-matic gauge guard. We also need to fill and remove the air bubbles from the guard. We are using mineral oil here. Glycerin and even RODI can be used. I am unable to locate glycerin locally, so mineral oil is being used.

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If your gauge guard is new, locate the o-ring in amongst the documentation. It's usually scotch taped to a page of the instructions. This o-ring will need to be seated into the bottom of the 1/4" port in the groove provided. It usually just drops into place.

You need to apply teflon tape to the half of the 1/4" nipple that will be threaded into the IFM sensor. The other half of the nipple should not have any tape as it seats against the o-ring. The Q-tip will be used for bleeding the gaurd when we get to that step.

NOTE: The port in the bottom of the IFM is NOT NPT. For the longest time I believed it was. Someone on the forum even pointed it out to me that it was a 1/4" G (which I had never heard of). It turns out that it is the same as BSP. So you need a nipple that has a 1/4" NPT on one end and 1/4" BSP on the other. Then the fitting will screw easily and fully into the IFM and seal with no thread tape required.



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The o-ring is seated in the guard here. Depending on the nipple you are using, you may not be able to seat it all the way in. As long as it has a good seal, we are fine.

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Removing Trapped Air in the Gauge Guard

This step takes a fair amount of patience. You need to fill the guard with your chosen solution, in this case, mineral oil. Then you need to use a small blunt probe to insert into the gauge guard to release the air bubbles. In this case we are using the blunt end of a toothpick. Do not use any sharp tool for this step.

I found a better way of filling and removing the trapped air. Fill the 1/4" hole up with fluid and then place your thumb over the hole. Now shake the gauge up and down vigorously about 20 times. You will hear sloshing noises. Add more fluid and shake. Continue adding fluid and shaking until you hear silence when shaking. This method works best with RODI, but can be used with all fluids. It gets messy with mineral oil though.

It takes a while, usually 20-30 minutes to get all the air out. Positioning the guard about 15% off vertical axis, and rotating through a couple of 360 degree turns, helps to get the trapped air to move towards the centre hole and form a bubble. Then carefully inserting your blunt tool and rotating it through a few turns, also pivoted 15 degrees off vertical, will usually release several air bubbles. As the bubbles are released, the liquid level in the guard will go down, so you will need to keep adding more liquid to restore the liquid level part way up the threads. Having an LED flashlight on hand helps to see if there are bubbles remaining in the guard.

Here we can see a bubble still present down in the guard body.

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A bubble that has been released, risen to the surface and will soon pop.

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The guard is now free from trapped air, and is ready to have the IFM sensor mounted.

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This is a very messy step. Have lots of paper towels on hand to soak up any splatter or accidents. Optimally you want to keep the liquid from getting all over everything. Especially if you use mineral oil or glycerine. The mineral oil and glycerine is more viscous than the RODI, so it is a bit easier to work with when doing the next step.

Mounting the IFM Sensor

You need to fill the nipple that is screwed into the senor with liquid. Fill it right to the top. Then quickly invert it and screw it into the guard. Make sure you keep the guard vertical, and flip the sensor rather than the other way around. You may need to take multiple tries at it, and the sensor is easy to refill, the guard is not, so you don't want to risk messing up the liquid in the guard.

Ditto with the potential for spills and creating a mess at this point. So lot's of paper towels at the ready to soak up accidents.

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Plugging the IFM sensor into the controller and powering up the controller gives us a reading. This particular sensor is set to mBar still, so we are getting 25 millibars. We will be switching the sensor to reading PSI later and will proceed to bleed the sensor to get as close to a 0.0 setting at atmospheric as possible.

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Configuring the sensor to read in PSI requires you to press the Mode/Enter button until EF (Extended Functions) appears. Again use a blunt object to press the buttons. I use a ball nosed 1/8" allen key.

If you do not press a button for an extended period of time, the configuration process will time out, and the sensor will return to reading the pressure. If this occurs, you will need to restart the process.

This is what you should see when you get to the extended function menu entry. Press Set to enter the menu. Note, the Out1 and Out2 LED may not be lit yet on your sensor. We will be configuring their behaviour later.

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The first item in the EF menu, is the Uni option. Press set to go into the Uni option.

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Now press and hold Set until the displayed setting flashes. Once it flashes, each press of Set will advance the through the options for that setting. We want to advance to PSI, if it is not already showing. Once PSI is showing, press Mode/Enter button to save the PSI setting and return to the EF menu.

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Now press Mode/Enter until you reach the end of the EF menu and the display returns to showing the current pressure. If you go past the pressure reading and back into the main menu, continue pressing Mode/Enter until you get back to the pressure reading.

Bleeding the IFM Sensor

With the sensor screwed into the guard finger tight, check to see what pressure is being read. Note, do NOT use any wrenches to screw the sensor into the guard, hand tighten only. You will find that the tighter the sensor, the higher the reading on the sensor.

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To bleed the sensor and attempt to get a zero reading with no pressure being applied, do the following:
  • Unscrew the sensor until the reading drops to 0.0. You may need to go a bit further past the point where it drops. We are trying to unseat the bottom of the nipple from the o-ring.
  • Insert the Q-tip into the 1/2" port of the guard and gently press on the membrane. Only use blunt soft tools for this. A pencil with a soft erasure is best.
  • Watch the display as you press. You should see the pressure go up and drop back to 0.0 or even go to a negative reading as you stop pressing on the membrane.
  • Periodically test your progress by screwing the sensor back into the guard until finger tight, and check the reading. You want to get it reading 0.0 or slightly above. Anything between 0.0 and 0.4 psi is fine.
  • If it is still showing elevated pressure, unscrew and repeat the membrane pressure step.
This is a finicky step. Take your time and be careful to be gentle with applying pressure to the membrane. If you bleed out too much fluid and get a negative pressure showing while you have the sensor seated tightly, you will need to remove the sensor, refill and restart the process. Though a small negative reading, say -0.2, is probably fine. You just don't want a large one as it will mean your pressures are higher than you think they are.

Both these final readings are great.

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Configuring the IFM Sensor

To setup the IFM sensor for the defaults perform the following settings.

Press the Mode/Enter button. The first option that will appear is SP1. This is the pressure setting for Output 1.

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Press the Set button to enter the SP1 option and then hold Set down until the displayed reading flashes to enter programming mode. Then press Set repeatedly until you get a reading of 5.0. If you go past 5.0, simply hold Set down until the setting rolls back 0 and starts counting up again. Once the pressure reaches this setting, Output 1 will turn off. Once you have it set to 5.0, press Mode/Enter to save the setting and return to the main menu. SP1 will be displayed after that.

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Now press Mode/Enter to advance to the next option, rP1. Again press Set to enter the option and hold Set down until the current setting flashes to enter programming mode.

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Advance through the rP1 settings until 4.2 shows. This will be the pressure that the reading needs to drop to, to reset Output 1 to back on. Press Mode/Enter to save the setting and return to the menu.

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Now press Mode/Enter to advance to the next option, OU1. Again press Set to enter the option and hold Set down until the reading flashes to enter programming mode.

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Advance through the OU1 settings until Hnc shows. This will configure Output 1 for Hysteresis, Normally Closed mode. This means Output 1 will always be on as long as the pressure is below the SP1 setting. Once the pressure reaches the SP1 setting, Output 1 will be turned off until the pressure drops to the rP1 setting, and Output 1 is reset (turned on). Press Mode/Enter to save the setting and return to the menu.

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Now press Mode/Enter to advance to the next option, SP2. Again press Set to enter the option and hold Set down until the reading flashes to enter programming mode.

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Advance through the SP2 settings until 4.8 shows. Once the pressure reaches this setting, Output 2 will turn off. Press Mode/Enter to save the setting and return to the menu.

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Now press Mode/Enter to advance to the next option, rP2. Again press Set to enter the option and hold Set down until the reading flashes to enter programming mode.

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Advance through the rP2 settings until 4.0 shows. This will be the pressure that the reading needs to drop to, to reset Output 2 to back on. Press Mode/Enter to save the setting and return to the menu.

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Now press Mode/Enter to advance to the next option, OU2. Again press Set to enter the option and hold Set down until the reading flashes to enter programming mode.

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Advance through the OU2 settings until Hnc shows. This will configure Output 2 for Hysteresis, Normally Closed mode. This means Output 2 will always be on as long as the pressure is below the SP2 setting. Once the pressure reaches the SP2 setting, Output 2 will be turned off until the pressure drops to the rP2 setting, and Output 2 is reset (turned on). Press Mode/Enter to save the setting and return to the menu.

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Now press Mode/Enter to advance to the next option, EF. Again press Set to enter the extended functions menu.

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Now press Mode/Enter to advance to the dr2 option. You will need to skip several options to get to it. Again press Set to enter the option and hold Set down until the reading flashes to enter programming mode.

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Advance through the dr2 setting until 10.0 shows. This will be the time delay in seconds for Output 2 to stay on, after the rP2 setting has been reached. We are using Output 2 to control the feed pump. This allows us to control how much extra water is fed into the reactor, after the preset pressure has already been breached. Note, rp2 typically gets triggered by the float valve closing and CO2 being injected. So this allows us to give a bit of headroom for the float valve to stay closed and allow more CO2 to enter if needed. Press Mode/Enter to save the setting and return to the menu.

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Now press Mode/Enter to advance to the next option, P-n. This sets the transistor type of the outputs. We have them wired as PNP outputs, so we will be setting to PnP. Again press Set to enter the option and hold Set down until the reading flashes to enter programming mode.

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Advance through the P-n settings until PnP shows. This will set the outputs to PNP. Press Mode/Enter to save the setting and return to the menu.

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Now press Mode/Enter to advance to the dAP option. You will need to skip several options to get to it. This the damping of the pressure readings. The default is 60 ms, we are going to use 30 ms. This was a helpful feature in the v2 and v3 controller versions, so we are carrying it over. The v4 may not actually need it anymore though. Again press Set to enter the option and hold Set down until the reading flashes to enter programming mode.

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Advance through the dAP settings until 30 shows. Press Mode/Enter to save the setting and return to the menu.

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Now press Mode/Enter until you reach the end of the EF menu and the display returns to showing the current pressure. If you go past the pressure reading and back into the main menu, continue pressing Mode/Enter until you get back to the pressure reading.

Testing the Controller

To confirm the proper wiring for correct operation, we can easily bench test the controller. To perform this step, we plug in each cable and power on the unit.

Here we can see that the bottom relay, controlling the feed pump, is on. Both outputs of the IFM sensor are on as the sensed pressure is below both rP1 and rP2 (and the outputs are normally closed).

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We can confirm the correct wiring of the feed pump port (and cable), by testing for continuity through the center pins of the custom pigtail cable. Note, this cable is for a Kamoer pump. Masterflex and externally switched outlets would be different.

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Note that the valve open LED is not lit, as the float cable is receiving an open signal. So the Clippard valve is closed.

AL9nZEXhXziBeBxqmHN1D2bo6-e1iXQfOFvms8AV8LWs0Uav0OJDo_qC8hQXv0MbL8QVhHU3Tc7R2dpO2gVMJNa3i8FcZJvSuavJeJ8BPaJXsosyoSe8Rwa1UCH_JBu_NRIjtEG9GjeYJ6nMwHjDq-iJWqGxPQ=w1680-h945-no


We can test the proper behaviour of the float valve closing by placing a test plug on the float cable.

AL9nZEWjGtMdeKi2PHTwI8qlhY2G14yQN_0xpvQulNrYZfeo3Zd-N8x60ZjlhjvvXHkjeg7opfIjral8Yb3az8sT5acmdUyK9ipP5aGJBLrxWmqxoLfO874RW0-dgA7TXYopvFydsYaS66yxf00pWGWkkTlBgQ=w532-h945-no


This causes the valve open LED to lite, and the Clippard valve to open.

AL9nZEUKvtyG6zUW9vfFGLTXKcxCmgtYMV7dR8vA-IiA2xcyZEiZkhl0SLyCmw5qsuvDTCITVaKgwwjCNXcCI7csrMn12Skxtgnsxt7y1rE1FAxJk4jcO37mKO1tXpWwDykcq3rvYiOKc00PhHN0M5w6B8AJdg=w1680-h945-no


Finally we can test the external venting function by feeding 24VDC into the vent port. This will energize the 2nd relay and disable the Clippard valve from opening. With the float valve test plug still in place, plug a 24VDC source into the vent port.

AL9nZEUw5ckxTLtXQSoRi2y8YvMFUVd-nbfQNA_o_EyM_J9yWBthc0_WXauf7BzZzuZVEA31XRND61EVPzWfAyXCsHwc5U5HeBtyKhMlpMFwuL_mZsmgpftAAM17R0B8H-Edv6N945EvMMvQdB3QnAmwiSyRcA=w532-h945-no


The Clippard valve will close and the valve open LED will turn off.

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The controller is now wired, configured and tested. A few PDF links and some installation tips remain, and then we are good to go.
 
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Dennis Cartier

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Grr, gimme a sec to fix up the broken Google Photo links.

Never mind the R2R servers were just a bit slow to resolve them. They have probably never seen so many photos in 1 post! :rolleyes:
 
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Reference Materials

The following PDFs provide info on the 2 models of IFM sensors suggested for use in the v4 controller.

IFM PN70xx

IFM PN72xx

CO2 Regulator Setup

The v4 controller requires your CO2 regulator be set to a higher pressure than previous versions of the controller. The reason for this is that the IFM sensor has been moved downstream of the CO2 check valve and has to overcome the internal back pressure of the reactor, pressing on the check valve. A good rule of thumb is to provide double the pressure from the CO2 regulator to what you have the IFM sensor configured for Output 1 (SP1). You can raise the regulator pressure even more, to increase the speed of the pressure changes inside the reactor. The effect is most noticeable during the period right after a venting process has completed, and the CO2 pocket is being enlarged, and refilled.

Please keep in mind that the IFM sensor will limit the max pressure inside the reactor based on your setting of SP1, and will not exceed that value. So the IFM sensor protects the reactor from the effects of running elevated regulator pressures. Assuming you chose a reasonable setting for SP1 of course.

The v4 controller is expected to work equally well with single stage regulators that are normally avoided in favour of dual stage regulators. The single stage regulators have a reputation of losing the ability to accurately regulate the pressure as the CO2 tank runs out and cause wildly changing CaRx results. The combination of the Clippard valve and the IFM sensor in the v4 controller are expected to negate the dumping issues of the single stage regulators, and make them work equally well as the more expensive dual stage regulators.

CO2 Check Valve

A good quality CO2 check valve must be employed to protect the Clippard valve from saltwater ingress and damage. It needs to be installed after the Clippard valve, and before the IFM sensor (connected through the gauge guard).

The 2 models of CO2 check valves that I consider as good candiates for using with a v4 controller are The Carbon Doser CO2 check valve, and the Dennerle CO2 check valve. The Dennerle valve is my favourite, and comes from Germany, so it can take some effort to locate a source of them in North America.

Do not skimp by using a cheap CO2 check valve. Most of the issues with the ACR factory controller can be traced to the quality of the check valves used, and the attachment methods employed.

Venting the Reactor

You will need to periodically vent your reactor to refresh the CO2 pocket. This is a requirement for saturation style reactors. How often you need to vent will depend on your flow rate, media type, and how much air is being ingested along with the feed water. Failure to sustain a frequent enough venting schedule will cause your effluent strength to wane over time.

The ACR reactor on development version of the v4 controller (my CaRx), is setup to vent twice a week, with a flow rate of 8 ml/min. This provides a stable 90 dKH of effluent.

Because venting is required, automatic venting is suggested to remove the effort of sticking to a frequent enough schedule, and performing manual venting operations. It also removes the risk of forgetting your reactor on vent!

A manual venting setup requires a vent switch be included in the build, and a manual 3-way ball valve be installed in the CO2 re-circulation loop. To start a vent cycle, disable the CO2 using the vent switch and move the 3 way valve to the vent position, stopping CO2 from being injected through the venturi. This will cause the pressure to drop to atmospheric inside the reactor, engaging the feed pump, and pushing all the stale gas out of the reactor through the vent line of the 3 way. To halt a vent cycle, move the 3-way valve back to the normal setting, re-connecting the venturi to the gas pocket, and re-enable the CO2 using the vent switch. The time required for the stale gas to be pushed out of the reactor depends on the reactor's gas pocket dimensions, and the flow rate of the feed pump. The ACR being used for development of the v4 controller requires a 10 minute vent cycle, at 60 ml/min, to evacuate all the stale gas.

For automatic venting, the vent switch is replaced with a DIN relay to allow the CO2 to be automatically disabled. The manual 3-way is replaced with an electronic 3-way valve that can control the CO2 flow to the venturi, and vent the gas pocket out to waste. The suggested valve for this (as mentioned earlier) is the Neptune Research 648T032.

Installation of the IFM Sensor

The suggested placement of the IFM sensor into the CO2 lines of an ACR, is connected to the CO2 line in the lid not being used for CO2 re-circulation. The 1/2" port of the gauge guard is fitted with a 1/4" push adapter, and then a Y adapter is fitted below a short length of 1/4" tubing. One leg of the Y adapter goes to the ACR, the other leg can attach to the CO2 feed.

Mounting the IFM Sensor

The IFM sensor is made out of stainless, so it is fairly heavy. I have mounted mine using zip ties with an eyelet built in to create a loop around the IFM body and screwing the unit to a support using the eyelet. This works, but see below for a better solution.

Automation direct makes a mounting bracket for their clone version of the IFM, that uses the same body dimensions as the IFM. I have not tried it yet, but expect it will make for a very robust mount method. See here EPS-BKT1
 

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This must be some kind of world record. I’m grateful for people like the OP, they make the world go round.

FWIW, I use an MTC Pro-Cal, which was stopped being made at least 5 years ago. It also vents the excess CO2.
 

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Incredible! This was some nice light Saturday morning reading. My SP13 style connector was corroded from the leak out of the original box so I had to cut it off and now have it hardwired using some soldered heat shrink connectors for the v1 version. It's nice having the quick connect for removing the top.
 
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Incredible! This was some nice light Saturday morning reading. My SP13 style connector was corroded from the leak out of the original box so I had to cut it off and now have it hardwired using some soldered heat shrink connectors for the v1 version. It's nice having the quick connect for removing the top.
I have more good news then. When I purchased the SP13 connectors for the v4 version, I had to buy both the male and female connectors, even though I only needed the controller side. So I will include both genders when I send your controller, so you can restore your quick connect capability.

This is not the first report I have had about users with the SP13 connectors corroded. It's probably a good idea to monitor that connector for issues, especially if you have had problems with the factory controller leaking.
 

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A quick shout out to Dennis for helping me get setup with one of his v4 controllers. Probably one of the most generous with his time and helpful reefers I've met in my many years. I'm on day 3 and the setup is running AMAZINGLY!! If there's anyone out there with an Aquarium Engineering CaRX, you should 100% go with this setup. I'm running my with Kamoer FX-STP pumps on the feed side and effluent side, with a pressure in the reactor in the 4.5-5psi range, effluent is coming out strong, we're using all industrial grade components (unlike Bill's), and it's just perfect. If anyone has any questions let me know, happy to help/answer whatever I can. This setup is 1000x better than the factory controller/setup from Bill!!!
 
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A quick shout out to Dennis for helping me get setup with one of his v4 controllers. Probably one of the most generous with his time and helpful reefers I've met in my many years. I'm on day 3 and the setup is running AMAZINGLY!! If there's anyone out there with an Aquarium Engineering CaRX, you should 100% go with this setup. I'm running my with Kamoer FX-STP pumps on the feed side and effluent side, with a pressure in the reactor in the 4.5-5psi range, effluent is coming out strong, we're using all industrial grade components (unlike Bill's), and it's just perfect. If anyone has any questions let me know, happy to help/answer whatever I can. This setup is 1000x better than the factory controller/setup from Bill!!!
Thanks Brian, my pleasure.
 

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I hadn’t considered a pressure control inside the CaRx system. I’m still running a classic setup where a Masterflex pump provides water feed with a standard recirculating pump and controlling on effluent pH. Taking some notes and thanks for sharing :)
 
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The controller built while making the walk through, FedEx managed to lose in Kansas City. I gave them one job to do, just one, and they managed to screw it up! The box arrived in Kansas City empty, no controller, so I had to build another and the walk through came in handy. This one will not be shipped by FedEx :rolleyes:

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