Current Quarantine Protocol

chema

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In order to measure the amount of copper when using Coppesafe, may you use either the Hanna LR (HI747) or the Hanna HR (HI702)? Of course, with the first one you should dilute the sample as the upper measuring limit is 999 ppb.
 
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In order to measure the amount of copper when using Coppesafe, may you use either the Hanna LR (HI747) or the Hanna HR (HI702)? Of course, with the first one you should dilute the sample as the upper measuring limit is 999 ppb.
HR
5550CA8E-83BA-44C4-A537-E0DE1C37F57F.jpeg
 

chema

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I just verified the LR. I added 10 ml of Coppersafe to 80 l of salt water. As Coppersafe is aprox. 6 mg/ml the final concentration should be 60 mg/80 l = 0,75 ppm. The result obtained was 749 ppb, which is pretty accurate. Today I'll prepare a dilution of the sample and see how it works.
 

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Do you know the history of the tank and fish? How long did the previous owner have the setup, when did he last add fish, did he ever treat with copper, did he ever have an obvious case of crypto, and had he ever Quarantined the fish?
 
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threebuoys

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I dont have the details unfortunately. I only know the tank is 3 years old. I'm guessing the previous owner never quarantined before adding fish.
If I were in your situation, I would quarantine. It's just too easy to do, and I like peace of mind it brings.

Many will say take a chance and see what happens.

Another option some choose to use is the TTM(Transfer Tank Method). You may want to search on that protocol too.

All have pros and cons, advocates and detractors.

If you choose to quarantine,you will find it easier to buy another tank for the process given the size of your display tank.
If you have two blue tangs, a 29 gallon tank will work better than a 20. In the picture it appears to be the case unless you're getting a reflection on the glass.

While you quarantine the fish to treat with copper, you will need to allow the 100 gallon tank to remain fallow so that any parasites there will die naturally. Instructions in the stickies explain the fallow process. If you have any invertebrates or corals, they can remain in the display tank during the fallow period.

You will need cycled filtration for the QT tank. An HOB, Internal, or foam filter will work if you use an adequate amount of cycled filter media. Be sure to keep an eye on ammonia when you first set it up in case you don't have enough cycled media.

Ambient light is adequate for the QT in most cases. You certainly do not need the high intensity blue light since no coral will be in the QT.

Good Luck!
 

hairyashell

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Thanks for the explanation! I am leaning towards Chelated Copper treatment for doing the quarantine. I wanted to do CP but it's hard to get a hold of. Here's what I was planning to do:
1. Use my 16 gallon as QT using already cycled media from this adopted tank/sump. Start Copper treatment using Copper Power.
2. Scrub the adopted DT and sump and let it dry completely.
3. Since I am using copper, would I be able to use the media I would be using in the QT back in the DT eventually?
4. Additionally, I was thinking of getting a dwarf lionfish and snowflake eel. But they cannot be treated with copper. How would I be able to add them to the DT? Would I have to TTM for them?
 
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threebuoys

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Thanks for the explanation! I am leaning towards Chelated Copper treatment for doing the quarantine. I wanted to do CP but it's hard to get a hold of. Here's what I was planning to do:
1. Use my 16 gallon as QT using already cycled media from this adopted tank/sump. Start Copper treatment using Copper Power.
2. Scrub the adopted DT and sump and let it dry completely.
3. Since I am using copper, would I be able to use the media I would be using in the QT back in the DT eventually?
4. Additionally, I was thinking of getting a dwarf lionfish and snowflake eel. But they cannot be treated with copper. How would I be able to add them to the DT? Would I have to TTM for them?
The cycled media in the sump appears to be the type that absorbs copper, so you should not use it in the QT.
If you have any foam or floss as filter media in your sump, you could use that in your QT. You could also place a foam filter in your DT and allow it to operate for several weeks before moving it to your QT and breaking down the DT. That would give the filter ample time to become populated with the bacteria necessary to process ammonia in your QT.

I have no experience with lionfish or eels so i can't give you any advice there.
 
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The cycled media in the sump appears to be the type that absorbs copper, so you should not use it in the QT.
If you have any foam or floss as filter media in your sump, you could use that in your QT. You could also place a foam filter in your DT and allow it to operate for several weeks before moving it to your QT and breaking down the DT. That would give the filter ample time to become populated with the bacteria necessary to process ammonia in your QT.

I have no experience with lionfish or eels so i can't give you any advice there.
Lionfish are fine with Coppersafe. The eel might go off its feed during copper, but if it is fed well beforehand, that won’t be an issue. Both of these species can be a handful with TTM…..
Jay
 

hairyashell

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The cycled media in the sump appears to be the type that absorbs copper, so you should not use it in the QT.
If you have any foam or floss as filter media in your sump, you could use that in your QT. You could also place a foam filter in your DT and allow it to operate for several weeks before moving it to your QT and breaking down the DT. That would give the filter ample time to become populated with the bacteria necessary to process ammonia in your QT.

I have no experience with lionfish or eels so i can't give you any advice there.
Other than not being safe for coral or inverts, what's the risk of copper being absorbed by the media?
 
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Would you say the same for Copper Power?
I can't say, I mostly use Copper Safe. People report that Copper Power is even safer than Coppersafe, but IDK. For either one, you need to have a good test kit and calculate your tank volume carefully. Cupramine and Copper sulfate/citric acid are the two meds that cause reactions in more species.

Jay
 

threebuoys

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Other than not being safe for coral or inverts, what's the risk of copper being absorbed by the media?
I assumed you might want coral or inverts in your display tank eventually. If the media absorbs copper while in the QT and you move it to the DT, it will likely leach some of the copper into the clean water.
 
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hairyashell

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I assumed you might want coral or inverts in your display tank eventually. If the media absorbs copper while in the QT and you move it to the DT, it will likely leach some of the copper into the clean water.
I'm aiming to keep triggers, puffers and lionfish so I don't think I would be able to keep corals
 
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I'm also curious, some recommend safety stop dip before putting into the quarantine tank for copper treatment. Is this necessary and what are the pros and cons?
That product is formalin and methylene blue. Formalin is very tricky to use on newly shipped fish as it consumes oxygen, right at a point where the fish may have been oxygen deficient. Methylene blue helps with oxygen transport, but it is used here as a second dip, right?

Many years ago, I had developed a very similar "triage" treatment for incoming fish. I thought it would really help.....in the end, I found that hitting fish right out of the bag with medications caused higher mortality than if I just acclimated them, and let them adjust for 2 to 3 days, then started a comprehensive treatment.

Jay
 
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Thanks Jay. I'm also thinking of getting some additional stock with this existing stock of fish that I'm adopting. Should I get the additional stock later or QT together with the adopted stock?
If the tank has the capacity, quarantine all together makes sense from a cost/effort point of view. However, if you have already begun a quarantine period and then add new fish, you should reset the clock over to day one.

Jay
 
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