Current Quarantine Protocol

[Jay Hemdal]

Have you seen any research into the impact of ozone on Lymphocystis? I ask because the last big patch of Lymphocystis that was on my Emperor is gone after one night in my DT where I run ozone (330mv in the DT, 400mv in the sump). I'm sure the more logical thing is that it fell off as part of natural healing, but I can't help but wonder if the ozone had any impact, even if it is just accelerated healing from higher oxygen levels.

I've run ozone on systems and the fish still developed Lymphocystis. Ozone might lower the transfer from one fish to another, but the virus itself is inside the fish's skin cells, so ozone won't reach that unless you burn (oxidize) those cells. Now, Lymphocystis nodules WILL fall off when a fish is captured and moved, but that is from mechanical action.

 

[kboogie]

I have a new batch of fish that arrived yesterday. They are a Lemon Peel Angel, Flame Angel, Gold Stripe Maroon Clown, Green Bird Wrasse, and the tiniest Humu Humu trigger you have ever seen. The Humu Humu is literally smaller than a quarter.

I’m wondering if there is anything special I should consider with the Green Bird Wrasse. I had great success with my accelerated process where I overlap the CopperSafe and Prazi treatments to cut three weeks out of the timeline. The fish are in my initial three day observation period where I verify they are eating well and don’t need antibiotics. Everyone is eating but the Green Bird was bigger than expected so he is not happy with the cramped quarters and inadequate hiding options.

I feel the Wrasse should not have adverse reactions to the combined CopperSafe and Prazi but I thought I would check.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

I have a new batch of fish that arrived yesterday. They are a Lemon Peel Angel, Flame Angel, Gold Stripe Maroon Clown, Green Bird Wrasse, and the tiniest Humu Humu trigger you have ever seen. The Humu Humu is literally smaller than a quarter.

I’m wondering if there is anything special I should consider with the Green Bird Wrasse. I had great success with my accelerated process where I overlap the CopperSafe and Prazi treatments to cut three weeks out of the timeline. The fish are in my initial three day observation period where I verify they are eating well and don’t need antibiotics. Everyone is eating but the Green Bird was bigger than expected so he is not happy with the cramped quarters and inadequate hiding options.

I feel the Wrasse should not have adverse reactions to the combined CopperSafe and Prazi but I thought I would check.

What form of prazi are you using? I never have problems with wrasse and pure prazi powder in well aerated tanks, but Prazipro and poor aeration can create more stress.

 

[kboogie]

I have a new batch of fish that arrived yesterday. They are a Lemon Peel Angel, Flame Angel, Gold Stripe Maroon Clown, Green Bird Wrasse, and the tiniest Humu Humu trigger you have ever seen. The Humu Humu is literally smaller than a quarter.

I’m wondering if there is anything special I should consider with the Green Bird Wrasse. I had great success with my accelerated process where I overlap the CopperSafe and Prazi treatments to cut three weeks out of the timeline. The fish are in my initial three day observation period where I verify they are eating well and don’t need antibiotics. Everyone is eating but the Green Bird was bigger than expected so he is not happy with the cramped quarters and inadequate hiding options.

I feel the Wrasse should not have adverse reactions to the combined CopperSafe and Prazi but I thought I would check.

What form of prazi are you using? I never have problems with wrasse and pure prazi powder in well aerated tanks, but Prazipro and poor aeration can create more stress.

Pure Prazi powder. I express it through a Reef Diaper (basically a coffee filter).

 

[weldrick208658]

2024 Quarantine Procedures

Jay Hemdal
David Scarborough


Protozoans (Cryptocaryon/ich, Amyloodinium/velvet) and Metazoan trematodes/flukes are by far the most common parasites found on newly acquired fish. A carefully managed, proactive quarantine process can effectively eliminate these parasites before adding the fish to your display tank. This process does not fully control Brooklynella, Uronema, viruses or internal parasites. Those issues however, make up a proportionally much smaller number of disease cases in marine fish.

Quarantine tank Requirements:

Tank must be large enough to comfortably handle the number and size of fish for up to 9 weeks.

• Tank should have a filtration system that has completed the nitrogen cycle. Canisters, HOB overflow filters, or appropriately sized sponge filters are acceptable.
• The tank should offer clear lateral viewing of the fish, bins and opaque containers that only allow for "top down" viewing are not a good idea to use, since careful observation of the fish is very important.
• The filtration system must not use carbon or other absorbing/adsorbing filtrants (e.g. Polyfilter) that might absorb copper or medication. NO calcareous rock LIVE or DEAD.
• Bare bottom should be used. A saucer with non-calcareous sand can be utilized for wrasses, gobies, blennies or other species which are overly stressed by the bare bottom. Painting the underside of the tank black can also help
• Heater/thermometer
• Removable structure, e.g. PVC pipe may be used to provide hiding places for the fish.
• Ambient light will often be adequate for the QT tank. Avoid using bright reef lights.
• A means to maintain oxygen levels should be available. Air stones and sponge filters are usually adequate. Powerheads may create too much current and they do not aerate well.
• A lid should be used to prevent the fish from jumping out of the tank.
• Set salinity level and temperature to the same levels as in your Display Tank.

Days 1 – 2: Observation - let the fish settle in and determine proper diet.

• Set QT temperature to 78 - 80 degrees F.
• Acclimate the new fish to the QT:
  • Measure salinity of the water in which the fish arrived.
  • Adjust salinity in QT to within 2 ppt of the salinity of the water in which the fish arrived.
  • Acclimate the fish to the QT gradually over 45 minutes.
• Observe the fish for any symptoms which might influence the treatment(s) you should administer.
• Determine if the fish are eating adequately to proceed.

Day 2: Begin Copper Treatment

• Add Coppersafe or copper power to the QT to achieve a concentration of 2.25 to 2.50 ppm over the course of 24 hours. This can be done in two doses 12 hours apart or multiple smaller doses if you prefer. Coppersafe will not be effective until a concentration over 2.0 ppm is present. A target of 2.25 ppm will allow for fluctuations without the risk of falling below the 2.0 ppm threshold. Hanna Copper checker is the most accurate test to use.
• Never use ammonia removing products or other reducing agents (dechlorinator) when dosing copper. Most products bind copper with an amine to reduce toxicity to the fish. Reducing agents break that bond, releasing free copper that can harm the fish.
• Feed and top off tank water normally.

Days 3 – 32: Continue Copper Treatment

• Monitor copper ppm regularly. If the copper level remains steady day to day, you can test less often, but if the concentration falls below 2.0 ppm, you may need to extend the 30-day count for the copper treatment.
• Monitor water quality parameters as you would for your display tank.
• If the copper or ammonia levels ever exceed guidelines, be prepared to administer water changes (pre dosed with copper) to correct the problem.

Day 34: Copper Done

• Begin copper removal through water changes.
• Binding agents Cuprisorb may be used to hasten the removal process, but work best with ionic copper.
• Carbon is usually too slow or ineffective at removing copper and should not be relied upon without adequate monitoring.

Day 35: Praziquantel Treatment #1

• Confirm copper has been removed adequately to drop the concentration to less than 1 ppm. Copper and Prazi should not be administered simultaneously unless there is suspicion of a severe fluke infection.
• Add Praziquantel to the QT per the dose on the label.
• Ensure the additional oxygenation source is working. This treatment will potentially reduce the oxygen levels within the QT to critical levels without additional air flow.
• Remove carbon or other chemical filtrants. Continuing running any protein skimmers, but don't collect the skimmate, let it run back into the tank.

Day 42, Day 49: Praziquantel Treatment #2, #3

• Add Prazi to the QT per the instructions on the label, 8 days apart. Spacing needed for these treatments is based on killing new flukes hatching from previously laid eggs. The time interval is not well known. A range of 7 to 9 days seems to give the best results.

Day 64: New Fish QT complete

• Observe fish for 2 weeks after last prazi dose. Note: many public aquariums do not move fish out of quarantine unless they are in the middle of a full copper treatment. This vastly reduces the risk from Cryptocaryon or Amyloodinium. To use that method, substitute a copper treatment for this 2 week observation period, and move the fish out around day 10.
• Conduct a 5-minute fresh water dip if the fish is of a species particularly susceptible to Neobenedenia flukes. If flukes are detected, reduce QT salinity to 50% and hold for an additional 35 days.
• Confirm salinity and temperature of QT and DT are the same, add fish to DT.

Variation from this process:
Do not use copper on sharks, rays, eels or flashlight fish.
Wild caught clownfish are prone to Brooklynella, and may need formalin treatments.

All wild caught fish have a potentially high mortality rate from a variety of other reasons, just be aware that losing fish during this quarantine time can happen.

Thank you very much I just have some questions, I have a mandarin dragonet, 2 wrasses and red rooster scorpion fish could I dose copper with them and to cycle the hospital could I used pre cycled media balls from my display?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Thank you very much I just have some questions, I have a mandarin dragonet, 2 wrasses and red rooster scorpion fish could I dose copper with them and to cycle the hospital could I used pre cycled media balls from my display?

Yes - pre cycled bio balls from your display is a great way to get a quarantine tank cycled properly.

Mandarins are very tough to quarantine, because they often only feed on live foods at first, and QT don't have good growths of live food in them.

 

[weldrick208658]

Thank you very much I just have some questions, I have a mandarin dragonet, 2 wrasses and red rooster scorpion fish could I dose copper with them and to cycle the hospital could I used pre cycled media balls from my display?

Yes - pre cycled bio balls from your display is a great way to get a quarantine tank cycled properly.

Mandarins are very tough to quarantine, because they often only feed on live foods at first, and QT don't have good growths of live food in them.

Would it be possible to dose copepods into the hospital tank?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Would it be possible to dose copepods into the hospital tank?

Yes - but expensive to do!

 

[W31Olds]

You also may have a problem with the wrasses eating the pods.

 

[Areseebee]

What's the best media to use for growing bacteria? I'm a little confused about what is ok and what isn't. I'd usually use polyfill in the sump, but that doesn't work for copper? Filter floss in general is no good. Should I just order bioballs?

Also I have a tank that had an ich breakout that I am running fallow for approximately 30 days at this point. Can I "season" the media in there? I understand why it sounds like a bad idea, but there are no fish so in principle the only problem could come from scraping the media on the walls/surfaces right? Should I just not do it? Not worth the risk? Flawed in some way?

 

[vittpsu21]

Thank you very much I just have some questions, I have a mandarin dragonet, 2 wrasses and red rooster scorpion fish could I dose copper with them and to cycle the hospital could I used pre cycled media balls from my display?

Yes - pre cycled bio balls from your display is a great way to get a quarantine tank cycled properly.

Mandarins are very tough to quarantine, because they often only feed on live foods at first, and QT don't have good growths of live food in them.

Apologies if this is a repeat but how long does a bio filter, balls/sponge/etc have to sit in a cycled tank to be “good”?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

What's the best media to use for growing bacteria? I'm a little confused about what is ok and what isn't. I'd usually use polyfill in the sump, but that doesn't work for copper? Filter floss in general is no good. Should I just order bioballs?

Also I have a tank that had an ich breakout that I am running fallow for approximately 30 days at this point. Can I "season" the media in there? I understand why it sounds like a bad idea, but there are no fish so in principle the only problem could come from scraping the media on the walls/surfaces right? Should I just not do it? Not worth the risk? Flawed in some way?

For smaller QT, I prefer to use double sponge filters. Poyfilter will absorb copper, but if you mean polyester "polyfill" that's o.k. to use unless it has flame retardant on it. Bioballs really do not have much surface area for bacteria to grow on. there are inert media like Siporax that work much better.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Apologies if this is a repeat but how long does a bio filter, balls/sponge/etc have to sit in a cycled tank to be “good”?

That's complicated - because you cannot really measure who much bacteria has colonized the media. The longer you wait, the better. Less than 2 weeks probably doesn't help at all. I generally try to keep it in there for 3 months. Some people keep a sponge filter running in their main tank's sump all of the time for this sort of use (if you have a sump).

 

[vittpsu21]

That's complicated - because you cannot really measure who much bacteria has colonized the media. The longer you wait, the better. Less than 2 weeks probably doesn't help at all. I generally try to keep it in there for 3 months. Some people keep a sponge filter running in their main tank's sump all of the time for this sort of use (if you have a sump).

Ah, thank you for this, makes a lot of sense. I am still relatively new and my main tank is just finishing cycling. I was trying to determine the best way to do this until I can just throw sponge filters in the main tank and let them sit! Seems like water changes will have to be the go to, to help control some of this until I can get something seasoned for the future!

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Ah, thank you for this, makes a lot of sense. I am still relatively new and my main tank is just finishing cycling. I was trying to determine the best way to do this until I can just throw sponge filters in the main tank and let them sit! Seems like water changes will have to be the go to, to help control some of this until I can get something seasoned for the future!

Don't just let the sponge sit in the water, you should hook them up to an air source so that water is actively pulled through them.

 

[vittpsu21]

Don't just let the sponge sit in the water, you should hook them up to an air source so that water is actively pulled through them.

will do! would putting the bioballs you guys talked about in a place like this also achieve the same goal? since water would fall into them from the overflow?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

will do! would putting the bioballs you guys talked about in a place like this also achieve the same goal? since water would fall into them from the overflow?

Yes - that will work. However, bioballs have much, much less surface area for the bacteria to grow on than do filter sponge or siporex materials.

 

[jonnywink]

2024 Quarantine Procedures

Jay Hemdal
David Scarborough


Protozoans (Cryptocaryon/ich, Amyloodinium/velvet) and Metazoan trematodes/flukes are by far the most common parasites found on newly acquired fish. A carefully managed, proactive quarantine process can effectively eliminate these parasites before adding the fish to your display tank. This process does not fully control Brooklynella, Uronema, viruses or internal parasites. Those issues however, make up a proportionally much smaller number of disease cases in marine fish.

Quarantine tank Requirements:

Tank must be large enough to comfortably handle the number and size of fish for up to 9 weeks.

• Tank should have a filtration system that has completed the nitrogen cycle. Canisters, HOB overflow filters, or appropriately sized sponge filters are acceptable.
• The tank should offer clear lateral viewing of the fish, bins and opaque containers that only allow for "top down" viewing are not a good idea to use, since careful observation of the fish is very important.
• The filtration system must not use carbon or other absorbing/adsorbing filtrants (e.g. Polyfilter) that might absorb copper or medication. NO calcareous rock LIVE or DEAD.
• Bare bottom should be used. A saucer with non-calcareous sand can be utilized for wrasses, gobies, blennies or other species which are overly stressed by the bare bottom. Painting the underside of the tank black can also help
• Heater/thermometer
• Removable structure, e.g. PVC pipe may be used to provide hiding places for the fish.
• Ambient light will often be adequate for the QT tank. Avoid using bright reef lights.
• A means to maintain oxygen levels should be available. Air stones and sponge filters are usually adequate. Powerheads may create too much current and they do not aerate well.
• A lid should be used to prevent the fish from jumping out of the tank.
• Set salinity level and temperature to the same levels as in your Display Tank.

Days 1 – 2: Observation - let the fish settle in and determine proper diet.

• Set QT temperature to 78 - 80 degrees F.
• Acclimate the new fish to the QT:
  • Measure salinity of the water in which the fish arrived.
  • Adjust salinity in QT to within 2 ppt of the salinity of the water in which the fish arrived.
  • Acclimate the fish to the QT gradually over 45 minutes.
• Observe the fish for any symptoms which might influence the treatment(s) you should administer.
• Determine if the fish are eating adequately to proceed.

Day 2: Begin Copper Treatment

• Add Coppersafe or copper power to the QT to achieve a concentration of 2.25 to 2.50 ppm over the course of 24 hours. This can be done in two doses 12 hours apart or multiple smaller doses if you prefer. Coppersafe will not be effective until a concentration over 2.0 ppm is present. A target of 2.25 ppm will allow for fluctuations without the risk of falling below the 2.0 ppm threshold. Hanna Copper checker is the most accurate test to use.
• Never use ammonia removing products or other reducing agents (dechlorinator) when dosing copper. Most products bind copper with an amine to reduce toxicity to the fish. Reducing agents break that bond, releasing free copper that can harm the fish.
• Feed and top off tank water normally.

Days 3 – 32: Continue Copper Treatment

• Monitor copper ppm regularly. If the copper level remains steady day to day, you can test less often, but if the concentration falls below 2.0 ppm, you may need to extend the 30-day count for the copper treatment.
• Monitor water quality parameters as you would for your display tank.
• If the copper or ammonia levels ever exceed guidelines, be prepared to administer water changes (pre dosed with copper) to correct the problem.

Day 34: Copper Done

• Begin copper removal through water changes.
• Binding agents Cuprisorb may be used to hasten the removal process, but work best with ionic copper.
• Carbon is usually too slow or ineffective at removing copper and should not be relied upon without adequate monitoring.

Day 35: Praziquantel Treatment #1

• Confirm copper has been removed adequately to drop the concentration to less than 1 ppm. Copper and Prazi should not be administered simultaneously unless there is suspicion of a severe fluke infection.
• Add Praziquantel to the QT per the dose on the label.
• Ensure the additional oxygenation source is working. This treatment will potentially reduce the oxygen levels within the QT to critical levels without additional air flow.
• Remove carbon or other chemical filtrants. Continuing running any protein skimmers, but don't collect the skimmate, let it run back into the tank.

Day 42, Day 49: Praziquantel Treatment #2, #3

• Add Prazi to the QT per the instructions on the label, 8 days apart. Spacing needed for these treatments is based on killing new flukes hatching from previously laid eggs. The time interval is not well known. A range of 7 to 9 days seems to give the best results.

Day 64: New Fish QT complete

• Observe fish for 2 weeks after last prazi dose. Note: many public aquariums do not move fish out of quarantine unless they are in the middle of a full copper treatment. This vastly reduces the risk from Cryptocaryon or Amyloodinium. To use that method, substitute a copper treatment for this 2 week observation period, and move the fish out around day 10.
• Conduct a 5-minute fresh water dip if the fish is of a species particularly susceptible to Neobenedenia flukes. If flukes are detected, reduce QT salinity to 50% and hold for an additional 35 days.
• Confirm salinity and temperature of QT and DT are the same, add fish to DT.

Variation from this process:
Do not use copper on sharks, rays, eels or flashlight fish.
Wild caught clownfish are prone to Brooklynella, and may need formalin treatments.

All wild caught fish have a potentially high mortality rate from a variety of other reasons, just be aware that losing fish during this quarantine time can happen.

@ Jay hemdal, I have a post QT question. After a QT where the fish didn’t make it, should I sanitize the QT tank completely before another QT?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

@ Jay hemdal, I have a post QT question. After a QT where the fish didn’t make it, should I sanitize the QT tank completely before another QT?

Generally, if the fish came through quarantine fine, and the QT is expected to be used again within a few months, it is best to keep the tank running. If you lose fish during the process, but release the remaining fish to a DT, then anything those fish had, if contagious, will likely have moved into you DT with the new fish. The only time I sterilize a QT is for the following reasons:

1) all fish died from some unknown issue.
2) the QT isn't expected to be needed again for 4+ months
3) praziquantel has been used in the QT for multiple runs of quarantine fish. What happens there is that bacteria grows that "eat" prazi. That means subsequent prazi treatments become less and less effective. At some point (after 5+ doses) it really stops working. Then, I'll sterilize the QT in order to kill off that bacteria.

 

[jonnywink]

Generally, if the fish came through quarantine fine, and the QT is expected to be used again within a few months, it is best to keep the tank running. If you lose fish during the process, but release the remaining fish to a DT, then anything those fish had, if contagious, will likely have moved into you DT with the new fish. The only time I sterilize a QT is for the following reasons:

1) all fish died from some unknown issue.
2) the QT isn't expected to be needed again for 4+ months
3) praziquantel has been used in the QT for multiple runs of quarantine fish. What happens there is that bacteria grows that "eat" prazi. That means subsequent prazi treatments become less and less effective. At some point (after 5+ doses) it really stops working. Then, I'll sterilize the QT in order to kill off that bacteria.

Thank very much for this information Jay