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pelphrey

pelphrey

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I posted awhile back about the Vivid Creative Aquatics Random Flow Generator. It is a 3D printed piece that is designed to randomize the flow coming out of your return. The construction of the RFG is great and it fit on my Reefer without any issues.

The reason I pulled the RFG off my system -
  • The physical size of the nozzle
  • I had to point the nozzle really low in my system to prevent air from being pushed through the nozzle. This also created another problem, with the nozzle so low and no siphon break when I did a test power outage my Gyre pumps nearly ran dry. Sure I could drill a hole in the nozzle for the siphon break. My problem with doing this is these holes require maintenance and if you don't keep them free of debris they are no good.
The owner of Vivid Creative Aquatics reached out to me and said he has some new 3D printer products. The new products allow you to snap Loc-Line onto their adapter. A lot of use reefer owners run the DIY Loc-Line mode on our systems so I was excited to see these adapters in person. They sent out the 1/2" and 3/4" Loc-Line adapters. The section that connects to the Reefer on both fittings are 25mm to give us size options. Since I have 1/2" Loc-Line on my system already that is the adapter I will be trying out.

I will update once it is installed with pictures and a video to come with my review.

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pelphrey

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I was lucky enough to test the AP700 out over my tank. I really like that light and may own one someday. Until then I picked up this 3' Sunblaster NanoTech T5 fixture and put a 36" ATI Blue Plus bulb for the fixture. I still need to work on mounting the light and see about adding possibly a second fixture and bulb. Any recommendations on another T5 bulb?

Fixture - http://amzn.to/2tmDpRz

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pelphrey

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My current equipment cabinet is a nightmare, I should have built one from the beginning! So that is what I am in the process of doing now. 1/2" furniture grade plywood (easier for me to paint), used white primer and 2 coats of white paint we had sitting on a shelf. This will sit on the right side of my tank and the front panel will go all the way to the wall. I need this to be easier to manage and secure to keep the kids out. Ordered some hardware today for the front panel, once it comes in I will get the panel situation sorted out and get all of my stuff moved into this cabinet!

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My current equipment cabinet is a nightmare, I should have built one from the beginning! So that is what I am in the process of doing now. 1/2" furniture grade plywood (easier for me to paint), used white primer and 2 coats of white paint we had sitting on a shelf. This will sit on the right side of my tank and the front panel will go all the way to the wall. I need this to be easier to manage and secure to keep the kids out. Ordered some hardware today for the front panel, once it comes in I will get the panel situation sorted out and get all of my stuff moved into this cabinet!

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I can't wait to see all the controllers and wires in the cabinet! It looks awesome!
 
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pelphrey

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I had planned to wrap that up this weekend. Up until today I wasn't sure how I was going to mount the front panel. I ordered some Velcro today. The plan was to use quick release hinges since I won't be in it all the time, the problem with those is not being able to flush mount the panel. So Velcro and maybe some bracing to keep the kids out!

Since I have a ton of plywood left over I just may end up with a canopy this weekend. Or one built anyway. I want to put the kessil and a t5 retro kit in it and hide all 3!
 
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pelphrey

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If you try this stuff youll never use velcro again :). Kind of a marine velcro. I buy it by the roll.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003...+fasteners&dpPl=1&dpID=51qgpvxo3HL&ref=plSrch

I bought some industrial strength Velcro. I'll have to look into these! I also built a ledge for the door to sit on, it will hold most if not all of the load.

Now the real toss up.

Giesemann Razor T5 Retro Kit 2x39w
OR ATI 4 bulb like you have. Leaning towards the retro kit at the moment.
 

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Right on! That stuff holds a good ammount of weight.

Not wanting a canopy steered me toward the full on fixture. All i had to work with was the kessil goosenecks at the time. You have more options with that 80/20. Its slick!
 
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pelphrey

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Added some "supports" to my cabinet. I built the door to sit 1/4" or so above the floor. This way it wouldn't be touching the floor at all preventing any damage. Probably use some type of simple gate hook for now to keep it closed. I did buy some industrial velcro I may use as well, but I'll still need to put some type of latch device on it to for sure keep the kids out. After looking at various pieces I should have also sanded some of the edges, no one will ever see it so I'll pass on that for now plus it is already painted.

I also added two 6" pieces of 8020 to my light stand to hold the t5 light. I had it zip tied and never could really get the light secure. The additional 8020 fixed that problem!

Since Live Aquaria is running their free shipping over $99 I picked up 2 more wrasses. They must have ran out of small because the Ruby Head I got is a monster! Live Aquaria failed to send me the tracking info the night before (Or UPS) so the box sat on my door step the entire day. Luckily it was one of the cooler days, I would have planned to be home had I received the tracking info. Typically when you don't receive tracking it means they were out of stock and nothing shipped. All in all the fish are in the tank and look perfectly fine!

SW - Ruby Head Fairy Wrasse, Male - Large
SW - Yellow Fin Fairy Wrasse - Male

I lost my birdsnest, or 99% of it. It turned completely white, it started off slow then all of a sudden it was all but gone. My stylophora started to turn white in spots, it looks like it is bouncing back. The stylo has started to encrust as well. Not sure what is going on. Nitrates tested 0, phosphates tested .08 &.11 over the weekend. I did a 5 gallon water change on Sunday and tested phosphates last night, they not sit at .09

Alk hasn't been rock solid but sits in the 9.4-9.7 range. I am using Red Sea Coral Pro salt.

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pelphrey

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In an effort to get my water chemistry under control I've been testing alk daily. Just a few weeks ago it was in the 8.5 range. Now it is in the 9.5 range. I would guess this is because I didn't mix my salt bucket up before adding salt to my water.

I also have my RODI in the garage and it is well over 80 degrees, should I bring a bucket inside and mix it overnight to cool it down before adding salt?

Phosphates were as high as .11 I've since slowed feeding down and they are .08 again. Goal is to get them to .05 or below. ATS is now thriving though!

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I have the RODI inside the house so water temperature depends of the weather outside. In the winter time I'm using a cheap 300W heater and 5g buckets to heat at the tank temperature, in the summer I put salt in the buckets on the morning and change water on the evening same day. Tropic Marine Pro dissolving crazy fast. 30min and you can add to the tank .... I just like to wait more in case small crystals that I don't see are present to avoid burning corals. +1 Alk just from water changes sounds a lot to me, maybe you're dosing too much 2 parts?
 
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pelphrey

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My RODI is in the house, storage is in garage. It's warm water in the summer and sold in the winter. In the winter I do heat it to temp.

I'm actually not dosing anything in my tank. Water changes and that's it. I have most of my bucket of RSCP salt still, would like to use it before I switch. 5 gallons a week means I'll have it for awhile. Haha

Where are you buying that Salt? How are the parameters when mixed?


I have the RODI inside the house so water temperature depends of the weather outside. In the winter time I'm using a cheap 300W heater and 5g buckets to heat at the tank temperature, in the summer I put salt in the buckets on the morning and change water on the evening same day. Tropic Marine Pro dissolving crazy fast. 30min and you can add to the tank .... I just like to wait more in case small crystals that I don't see are present to avoid burning corals. +1 Alk just from water changes sounds a lot to me, maybe you're dosing too much 2 parts?
 

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My params of the water are always the same. I've attached the screenshot from Apex. I never tested fresh mixed water, I'm using that salt for a long time already and I know that on FULL with a little little hill shaker of salt for 5g water is exactly the salinity that I run my tank 1.026 or so.
Classic shaker 20oz : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVMCJ5...EJKJ5KGP6420&ie=UTF8&qid=1501813510&sr=1&th=1

I'm buying it a Marine Depot, free delivery. ;)

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pelphrey

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Are you using any of the other Marin products? You eventually going to do the balling method?




My params of the water are always the same. I've attached the screenshot from Apex. I never tested fresh mixed water, I'm using that salt for a long time already and I know that on FULL with a little little hill shaker of salt for 5g water is exactly the salinity that I run my tank 1.026 or so.
Classic shaker 20oz : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVMCJ5...EJKJ5KGP6420&ie=UTF8&qid=1501813510&sr=1&th=1

I'm buying it a Marine Depot, free delivery. ;)

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No, I'm not using anything else from them. ;) I run my tank pretty simple, just adding some of the additives that I like and sure Alk, Ca and Mg (when needed).
 
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pelphrey

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@Berlibee thanka so much for your help!! I know other have had success with Red Sea coral pro, and I'm sure I could as well. I just don't know if it is a good fit for me right now. I can't deal with the parameter swings like this, now when I want to add sps to the tank.
 

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I wouldn't recommend Red Sea Coral PRO.
Go with the Tropic Marine PRO or with Red Sea Blue Bucket. PRO in Red Sea line have a super high ALK like 13 or so. But Red Sea blue bucket is very good. But PRO in Tropic Marine line have lower ALK than regular Tropic Marine. Confusing because two different brands.

Bla bla bla summary: :D
Tropic Marine Regular higher ALK > than Tropic Marine PRO
Red Sea PRO higher ALK > than Red Sea Blue Bucket.
 

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