Thanks for your help! I was thinking the same thing like dang I wish I would've just did a flexible tube from the bulkhead down to the sump to begin with it would probable been a lot quieter. But just to confirm, yea it has an internal overflow.
There is no such thing. The bean animal design is 3 drains- one full siphon and 2 emergency.
We never use external hang the back boxes. And we never use solid piping for this reason and other reasons. All this stuff with emergency overflows and stuff is in our opinion complicating something that should be nice and simple. Gate valves and setups named after stuffed toys may be necessary for HOBS. Not for internal overflows. Go with the flex tubing. You will be happy. Oh, and your system will "fail safely" as long as your sump capacity is greater than the volume from the top of your tank to the bottom of your overflow slots. We can discuss back siphoning later but I don't think that will be an issue with yours. Keep. It. Simple.
Oops I was mixed up with Durso. I meant a durso drain. Could I achieve full siphon with a single durso. Or would it be the same as mine now with the maggie muffler?
If I do this I'd need a new 1.5 inch bulkhead since mine now is glued to the drain pipe going under the tank. Would you recommend a threaded bulkhead, and then threading a hose adapter into it? Or how do you attach the hose to the bulkhead?
You can pick up a new bulkhead pretty easily. Here are two examples of hose barb inserts. I prefer the FPT over the MPT because it won't restrict the flow. And don't forget to clamp them. No matter how well you think they are holding, clamp them. Also not a bad idea to use teflon thread tape. Put it on in the direction of the bulkhead threads if you use a FPT. Put it on the insert threads if you are going to use a MPT. Always wrap teflon tape in the same direction as the threads. All the best.
Unfortunately I glued a street 45 into the bulkhead for space saving so I think I'm out of luck with cutting the pipe and using the existing bulkhead. Although I still like that idea if I get a new bulkhead, put a short piece of pipe then to the hose barb fitting.
Maybe
Hey this is a OLD post but what are the odds you remember how you fixed this? J have the same size tank but a dual overflow with the compartments looking as shown in included pictures. And I am getting the bubblingUnfortunately I glued a street 45 into the bulkhead for space saving so I think I'm out of luck with cutting the pipe and using the existing bulkhead. Although I still like that idea if I get a new bulkhead, put a short piece of pipe then to the hose barb fitting.
Or I could still do this after the first 45 if I leave the existing but I might still get some "splash" noise from water falling and landing down on the 45 before going into the hose maybe.
If you had that valve on the drain pipe with that sharp two 90 degree elbows, that’d help. The two sharp elbows aren’t helping either wayHey this is a OLD post but what are the odds you remember how you fixed this? J have the same size tank but a dual overflow with the compartments looking as shown in included pictures. And I am getting the bubblingcoming out of the drain but mine is under water, if yours was like this and if you silenced it could you give me some advice?
i only have valves on the returns to dial in the flow to be the same. Should I add 2 ball valves to the drain lines? would slightly closing them cancel out the air?
