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Because it's good practice to QT and it came on a live rock filled with pests I don't want in my main tankWhy is the anemone in QT? They like mature tanks it may not be happy there
The Qt is new but it was set up with bio filters from my main display that has developed over 2 years. It has really high lighting but they aren't blue. I'll post the parameters. Also I got it from a petco with tons of alge and crud in the tanks so I want to make sure it's healthy.I don’t think QTing an anemone will bring much benefit unless it is obviously sick beforehand. How long has the QT been set up ? Does it have the proper lighting , flow? Generally anemoens need mature environments , tank older than 6 months.
I got a condy not too long ago from petco as well, just temp acclimated. I didn’t bring any rock with it you can massage the foot to let go if it’s attached. I’d honestly would put into DT because the QT could be doing more harm than goodThe Qt is new but it was set up with bio filters from my main display that has developed over 2 years. It has really high lighting but they aren't blue. I'll post the parameters. Also I got it from a petco with tons of alge and crud in the tanks so I want to make sure it's healthy.
Sounds good. I'm pretty familiar with the hobby but I started a few years ago. But I have done years of research on my own with countless hours before I started the hobby. From what you have said I think my best course of action is to do test on my main tank to make sure my parameters are consistent with the other test I've done and in par with the requirements. If so I will move the anemone to the main display that has light's more suitable for the anemone and I'll turn off the wave pumps for a few hours.Agree quarantine unnecessary and I can certainly say, not a good choice for a new/newer tank. With some specimens, the bulb of the anemone is accompanied by a small tip. Interestingly enough, the tentacles can change based on the anemone’s environment. Below the splay of tentacles is the anemone’s foot. The foot is delicate. Yet, it has simple muscle fibers that help the creature move and anchor onto rocks.
Proper anemone care requires a bit of work to keep these creatures healthy! In short, theyre not recommended for first-time aquarists. Having thorough knowledge about these animals is a must. The invertebrates are sensitive to water changes and require pristine conditions to stay in good shape. Failing to meet their needs can result in early death and damage to the tank environment as a whole. Yes, getting caught in a power head is a concern but rarely occurs.
The most important thing you’ll need to take care of before you bring your anemone home is perfecting the tank and water conditions. You should never place an anemone into a tank you just set up.
Take some time to get parameters just right and let the closed environment cycle for a few months. This ensures that conditions are stable and safe. Anemones prefer warmer temperatures. Water should be on the alkali side as well. Monitor water conditions regularly to avoid any major changes. Ammonia and nitrate levels should be undetectable at all times using a good quality test kit and Not API either.
Here are some water parameters to follow.
When you first introduce the anemone to the tank, turn down any pumps. The flow should be minimal until the anemone gets settled in. Chances are, your new anemone will move around the tank until it finds a suitable spot to call home.
- Water temperature: 77°F - 80°F (stay close to the middle of this range)
- pH level: 8.1 to 8.3
- Water hardness: 8 to 11 dKH
- Specific gravity: 1.024 to 1.025
- Nitrate < .5
- Phosphate < .04
If it starts to move towards any coral, simply direct your water jets to the coral. This will discourage the anemone from anchoring near it. It will move to another area to attach.
Anemone lighting is a very important aspect of their care. These creatures need a lot of light to thrive because they’re photosynthetic which means that they absorb light to produce food and growth. The anemone has zooxanthellae in its body, which are symbiotic microorganisms that they feed on. Without proper lighting, the anemone will expel the zooxanthellae and turn white. This process is called bleaching and often leads to death.
A moderate amount of flow is recommended. Many aquarists soon find out that too much flow will cause the anemone to stretch out and look stringy. Keeping things moderate will help avoid this from happening. Avoid directing your flow directly at the anemone. These anemones enjoy subtle movement at all times but too much direct flow hitting the anemone will force it to move.
Not unusual. Domino damsel and others you will find do the sameMy condylactis (I think) has grown so big. I did not QT, no need. Just acclimate slowly. My chromis made it their home.
I didn't say it is unusual.Not unusual. Domino damsel and others you will find do the same
I said not unusual, not you. I have had many fish over last couple of decades take to anemones you would not think would, and was nice to see chromis withinI didn't say it is unusual.