reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[Ranjib]

Well, so far my reefpi has been running on the bench with all my rules in place for several days now with no issue. I think I am done with the testing portion or power, temp, and ATO and ready to move to the next phase which is doser control. I know that the easiest thing to do would be to get a pi Zero and build it separate but I am suborn and determined to build it all together. I decided to go with the SPT SP200VO pump which has a max current draw of 150mA at 12 volts.

http://www.aptinstruments.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=SP200VO

I did a ton of reading on the subject and found that MOSFET motor drivers are preferred not only for the increased current capability but they tend to play nicer with micro controllers and dont cause resets from power spikes. With that said the dual channel TB6612FNG while its overkill for my project is used in lots of robotics projects, is good for up to 1.2 amp continuous per channel, and has flyback diodes built in.

https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-tb6612-h-bridge-dc-stepper-motor-driver-breakout/overview

I am going to change things around a little on my pi, mainly I want the built in circuit protection so I will be wiring it up to get power from the micro USB port connected to the buck converter. I will also be upgrading my power supply to a regulated 12v 5 amp power supply. For those that are electronics smart. The only question I cant seem to find a definitive answer on is will I need decoupling capacitors on the LM2596 regulator be sufficient for keeping spikes or noise down? I know the pi itself has some built in. Here is a basic diagram.

LM2596 modules are rated for 3A, if I recall correctly. I think the motor driver is nice choice. I have not used them, most of my needs are met by l293d already. I am assuming like l293d these chips also has some fly back/diode protection.
One thing to consider is you can house the dosing pumps in a seperate enclosure and just connect the pwm signal from reef-pi brain to the dosing enclosure using audio cable (for two channels), or cat5 cables (for 10 channels). When I thought about an all in one controller including doser, I found it rather inconvenient to have the brain and dosing pumps together, cause dosing pump might be located in a very different location (close to sump or back chambers for AIO tanks) than brain.

 

[Des Westcott]

I am busy with the designing of what I am calling "Reef-Pi Reboot"

At present, my Reef-Pi is built into an old PC Tower case that I had kicking around. The original idea was to use the ATX power supply, but that died half way through the build. - Probably the reason the case wasn't being used in the first place. This hasn't worked out so well because I found that that because of where the Reeftank is placed, WiFi is quite weak there and the Pi got terrible WiFi signal through the metal case. So now it lies there on it's side with one of the covers off and looks rubbish. I've also lost a few channels on the 8-channel relay bank. My ATO problems also point to a hardware issue, so a total rebuild can't hurt. I have also been given a Pi 7" screen that I want to mount on the case ie right there next to the tank. Will be great for turning equipment on or off if needed without digging out a phone or something.

My challenge is how to make the wiring look neat and how to hide all the wires that run from the "brainbox" to all the equipment. The wires I'm talking about are quite a number. I know guys use DB9 cables and cat5 cabling to neaten some of this up and reduce the number of actual cables involved. Ultimately I think that a run of trunking is going to be the way to go. Also, the "stereo jack" system of connecting up. I've never like the look f that or the work involved. I'm thinking about using these instead for all the equipment https://www.bidorbuy.co.za/item/374176156/Jack_Spring_4_Wire_Speaker_Terminal.html If correctly labeled, I can see no real cause for confusion.

Any other ideas / thoughts on this subject?

 

[b4tn]

LM2596 modules are rated for 3A, if I recall correctly. I think the motor driver is nice choice. I have not used them, most of my needs are met by l293d already. I am assuming like l293d these chips also has some fly back/diode protection.
One thing to consider is you can house the dosing pumps in a seperate enclosure and just connect the pwm signal from reef-pi brain to the dosing enclosure using audio cable (for two channels), or cat5 cables (for 10 channels). When I thought about an all in one controller including doser, I found it rather inconvenient to have the brain and dosing pumps together, cause dosing pump might be located in a very different location (close to sump or back chambers for AIO tanks) than brain.

Since the LM2596 is only powering the pi itself and the motor logic side it will barely reach the 3 amp tolerance. The 12 volt side however will have more current but bypasses the LM2596 all together. My concern is noise ont he 12 volt side affecting the regulated 5 volt side. I would think that between the LM2596 regulator board and built in pi protection it should be fine.

 

[b4tn]

I am busy with the designing of what I am calling "Reef-Pi Reboot"

At present, my Reef-Pi is built into an old PC Tower case that I had kicking around. The original idea was to use the ATX power supply, but that died half way through the build. - Probably the reason the case wasn't being used in the first place. This hasn't worked out so well because I found that that because of where the Reeftank is placed, WiFi is quite weak there and the Pi got terrible WiFi signal through the metal case. So now it lies there on it's side with one of the covers off and looks rubbish. I've also lost a few channels on the 8-channel relay bank. My ATO problems also point to a hardware issue, so a total rebuild can't hurt. I have also been given a Pi 7" screen that I want to mount on the case ie right there next to the tank. Will be great for turning equipment on or off if needed without digging out a phone or something.

My challenge is how to make the wiring look neat and how to hide all the wires that run from the "brainbox" to all the equipment. The wires I'm talking about are quite a number. I know guys use DB9 cables and cat5 cabling to neaten some of this up and reduce the number of actual cables involved. Ultimately I think that a run of trunking is going to be the way to go. Also, the "stereo jack" system of connecting up. I've never like the look f that or the work involved. I'm thinking about using these instead for all the equipment https://www.bidorbuy.co.za/item/374176156/Jack_Spring_4_Wire_Speaker_Terminal.html If correctly labeled, I can see no real cause for confusion.

Any other ideas / thoughts on this subject?

I have not had the best of luck with the stereo connectors. They are very finicky. I want to switch to a different type of plug but have not found anything that I really like yet. I like the idea of using telephone or cat 5 cable but have not really found any panel mount female ends that are not bulky and require a crimper tool. DB9 plugs are easy if you dont mind everything bundled into one cable but I kind of want individual cables per component. If you find anything good make sure and post it up.

 

[That Crusso Kid]

I have not had the best of luck with the stereo connectors. They are very finicky. I want to switch to a different type of plug but have not found anything that I really like yet. I like the idea of using telephone or cat 5 cable but have not really found any panel mount female ends that are not bulky and require a crimper tool. DB9 plugs are easy if you dont mind everything bundled into one cable but I kind of want individual cables per component. If you find anything good make sure and post it up.

@b4tn - have you considered a banana plug wall plate? Here's a sample of one but they're available in a number of styles.

ICESPRING 7.1 Home Theater Banana Binding Post Coupler Type Wall Plate for 7 Speakers, 1 RCA Jack for Subwoofer & 1 HDMI Port https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072PX1CC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cqZ2BbBT50MJC

 

[Des Westcott]

I have not had the best of luck with the stereo connectors. They are very finicky. I want to switch to a different type of plug but have not found anything that I really like yet. I like the idea of using telephone or cat 5 cable but have not really found any panel mount female ends that are not bulky and require a crimper tool. DB9 plugs are easy if you dont mind everything bundled into one cable but I kind of want individual cables per component. If you find anything good make sure and post it up.

That's what individual wires look like lol

 

[b4tn]

@b4tn - have you considered a banana plug wall plate? Here's a sample of one but they're available in a number of styles.

ICESPRING 7.1 Home Theater Banana Binding Post Coupler Type Wall Plate for 7 Speakers, 1 RCA Jack for Subwoofer & 1 HDMI Port https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072PX1CC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cqZ2BbBT50MJC

I did actually. But the plugs I need would have to have 3 wires. Which is probably why @Ranjib went with the stereo plugs. I will probably end up going with DIN plugs. They come in many pin configurations and are round so easy to mount (Just drill a hole).

https://www.amazon.com/Connector-So...41093443&sr=1-7&keywords=din+plug+panel+mount

 

[b4tn]

That's what individual wires look like lol

;Jawdrop lol

 

[Des Westcott]

Oooooooooohhhhhh!

https://www.banggood.com/12-Port-Ca...Wwr_UxoCAkoQAvD_BwE&ID=49316&cur_warehouse=CN

 

[LionHeart2017]

That looks nearly ideal, just too many[emoji13]

 

[Des Westcott]

https://za.rs-online.com/web/p/rj-adapters-couplers-extensions/7248953/

How about that? A bit limiting in face material thickness
I can crimp RJ5 connectors, so that doesn't bother me.

 

[ScottBrew]

I am busy with the designing of what I am calling "Reef-Pi Reboot"

At present, my Reef-Pi is built into an old PC Tower case that I had kicking around. The original idea was to use the ATX power supply, but that died half way through the build. - Probably the reason the case wasn't being used in the first place. This hasn't worked out so well because I found that that because of where the Reeftank is placed, WiFi is quite weak there and the Pi got terrible WiFi signal through the metal case. So now it lies there on it's side with one of the covers off and looks rubbish. I've also lost a few channels on the 8-channel relay bank. My ATO problems also point to a hardware issue, so a total rebuild can't hurt. I have also been given a Pi 7" screen that I want to mount on the case ie right there next to the tank. Will be great for turning equipment on or off if needed without digging out a phone or something.

My challenge is how to make the wiring look neat and how to hide all the wires that run from the "brainbox" to all the equipment. The wires I'm talking about are quite a number. I know guys use DB9 cables and cat5 cabling to neaten some of this up and reduce the number of actual cables involved. Ultimately I think that a run of trunking is going to be the way to go. Also, the "stereo jack" system of connecting up. I've never like the look f that or the work involved. I'm thinking about using these instead for all the equipment https://www.bidorbuy.co.za/item/374176156/Jack_Spring_4_Wire_Speaker_Terminal.html If correctly labeled, I can see no real cause for confusion.

Any other ideas / thoughts on this subject?

I have not had the best of luck with the stereo connectors. They are very finicky. I want to switch to a different type of plug but have not found anything that I really like yet. I like the idea of using telephone or cat 5 cable but have not really found any panel mount female ends that are not bulky and require a crimper tool. DB9 plugs are easy if you dont mind everything bundled into one cable but I kind of want individual cables per component. If you find anything good make sure and post it up.

If you are in the USA (I'm not sure of their international shipping policies), check out https://www.monoprice.com . Cat5/6 crimp tools are inexpensive, as are the keystone jacks, male connectors and wire. Here's the specific page on keystone panels https://www.monoprice.com/Category?c_id=105&cp_id=10517 .

 

[ScottBrew]

Sorry for your trouble :-(

I tried to reproduce this without any luck. I have tried different combinations, including two columns, 1 columns, 2 row , 1 row, different width , height etc.
This is unlikely to do with Pi.. I am fairly sure theres a software bug in the UI code, thats running in the browser which is exposed when you make those changes. I also think this does not impact the controller itself (i.e. ato, lighting etc should work fine), it only breaks the UI. I'll keep trying to reproduce it. Fixing this type of bugs is trivial as long as we can reproduce it.
If its possible, just share the screenshot of the config that breaks the UI, without actually saving it, so that it does not break your UI. I completely understand if its too much ask.

OK, so that's odd. I wonder if it had something to do with the monitor and connection I was using. Since I had the error, I picked up a 12' HDMI cable to connect to the 32" monitor/TV in the office. It was connected to a standard monitor with a HDMI->DVI cable when I had the error. I haven't updated reef-pi since then. Just copied reef-pi.db to a backup and took pics of all the screens to see if I could recreate. NO FAILURE!

 

[b4tn]

@Des Westcott are those relays mechanical or solid state? Do they click?

 

[LionHeart2017]

That's a better option, it is a struggle getting a nice connection and keeping it tidy, I'm just trying to sort out mounting 8 led drivers and getting everything in one box for them, 8 relays, pi0 psu, dimmers, fan conections power in, all gets crowded, I'm on v2 before even getting v1 done lol

 

[speedstar]

Not sure what has happened here, but my lights did not turn on as programmed today. It has been fine the past 4 days. Only difference was yesterday I enabled ATO but did not configure anything for it. There is only a + in that tab. Thoughts screenshots of my timers, equipment and dashboard below. Note the time in upper right window of OS. Remoted in right now and not home to look further.

 

[Des Westcott]

https://za.rs-online.com/web/p/rj-patch-panel-modules-accessories/6162198/

Plus

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1741072 where you can custom print whatever size you want. Might be the answer.

 

[Des Westcott]

@Des Westcott are those relays mechanical or solid state? Do they click?

They are mechanical

 

[Des Westcott]

If you are in the USA (I'm not sure of their international shipping policies), check out https://www.monoprice.com . Cat5/6 crimp tools are inexpensive, as are the keystone jacks, male connectors and wire. Here's the specific page on keystone panels https://www.monoprice.com/Category?c_id=105&cp_id=10517 .

Yes. I already have a crimping tool for ethernet cable CAT5/6 stuff. I have just come across the keystone jacks as well. There are also some neat options to 3d print panels for the keystone jacks. They are winning the race at this stage. Unless I find something better of course.

 

[speedstar]

wooo hat boards arrived. Thanks so much for you work on them @wykat