Snowflake eel not eating?

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Although eels are known to go on hunger strikes, it is very risky to allow a new eel to go very long without eating. Not eating can also be indicative of internal parasites, and the longer one goes without eating, the more risk.

When you say you added shrimp, did you mean live ghost shrimp. I would not let a new addition go more than a couple of days without eating, before I would treat with general cure. Most times eels haven't eaten in a while and a healthy eel should have no problem eating within a couple of days. A few ghosties overnight and they should be gone in the morning.

so maybe I should try live ghost shrimp… Then I’ll start feeding thawed shrimp?
 
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Also... all the ghost shrimp I know of are fresh. But I see saltwater stores sell them, too. Same species or different?
 

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Also... all the ghost shrimp I know of are fresh. But I see saltwater stores sell them, too. Same species or different?

Its likely the same species, the most common ghost shrimp we see live in fresh, brackish, and sslt water. Some marine variety may be a cousin. Whether you get them from fresh or salt they will live in salt long enough to get eaten. Whether fresh or salt they are nutritionally safe and sound. Because this is just a temporary jumpstart there is no need to gut load, for a long term staple. gut loading would be optimum.
 
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We are now on day 5… I put four or five ghost shrimp… They must be either excellent conversationalist or they have blackmail on my eel, cause he won’t eat them.
 

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Give it time. Eels are primarily nocturnal predators, so if it's still shy it may only come out at night. You could also try dimming your lights as well.

Rest assured, a healthy eel will not let itself starve to death. At some point its hunger will get the better of it.
 
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Give it time. Eels are primarily nocturnal predators, so if it's still shy it may only come out at night. You could also try dimming your lights as well.

Rest assured, a healthy eel will not let itself starve to death. At some point its hunger will get the better of it.
The lights go off every night… And I even go in there late night and no luck. Somebody mentioned to just go ahead and do some general cure… Is that recommended?

what about prazi pro?

all I can’t imagine a single parasite that would cause an eel not to eat
 

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I dont wait that long to start general cure, predatory fish are fed diseased and dying fish by the wonderful peolple that supply us these beautiful creatures. Internal parasites unless treated by your supplier is a very likely scenario.

General cure is a better choice than prazi pro because it contains prazi as well as metro, so it covers the widest range of parasites and worms.

I have learned the hard way many times over. I feed something live immediately upon acclimation. If they eat I let them fatten up 2-3 days before starting treatment. Sometimes the meds will suppress the appetite. These guys are usually starved, and a healthy fish should eat right away. I would not give it more than a couple odf days of not eating before I start treatment. The soonerbthe better and the longer you wait, if it is internal parasites, could be too late at some point.

I've seen it so many times I plan to automatically treat with general cure unless already treated by a trusted source.
 
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I dont wait that long to start general cure, predatory fish are fed diseased and dying fish by the wonderful peolple that supply us these beautiful creatures. Internal parasites unless treated by your supplier is a very likely scenario.

General cure is a better choice than prazi pro because it contains prazi as well as metro, so it covers the widest range of parasites and worms.

I have learned the hard way many times over. I feed something live immediately upon acclimation. If they eat I let them fatten up 2-3 days before starting treatment. Sometimes the meds will suppress the appetite. These guys are usually starved, and a healthy fish should eat right away. I would not give it more than a couple odf days of not eating before I start treatment. The soonerbthe better and the longer you wait, if it is internal parasites, could be too late at some point.

I've seen it so many times I plan to automatically treat with general cure unless already treated by a trusted source.

I’ll give it a shot, then. Thx!!
 
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Prazi pro and seachem metroplex together is what is in gc.

that’s what I was thinking… She’s in a 10 gallon tank right now. How much of each would you recommend? And obviously it’s gonna have to be a metro dip since focus won’t bind it to the food because she’s not eating it ‍♂️
 

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Do you have a pvc or something for her to tuck inside, that sense of security is important.

For 10g its about 2.5 ml of pp, so a little less to compensate for whatever displacement. You can also use metro in the water column, 1-2 measures per 10g.

I have had success treating eels but do not consider myself an expert when giving med advice, so take that under advisement.
 
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Do you have a pvc or something for her to tuck inside, that sense of security is important.

For 10g its about 2.5 ml of pp, so a little less to compensate for whatever displacement. You can also use metro in the water column, 1-2 measures per 10g.

I have had success treating eels but do not consider myself an expert when giving med advice, so take that under advisement.


I know you cannot mix PP with anything else so I’m doing the metro first, I will wait 48 hours and then do a water change and add PP.

However… If anybody could assist me in finding out what this red mark is, or if it’s just normal


 

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How is the water quality, it needs to be optimum. That red mark is not normal and a secondary bacterial infection can set in. You meed to address rhe eating problem 1st and get him eating. And address any water quality issues. If he starts eating and the water quality is good, if is is a secondary bacterial infection, it will likely clears itself.

@Big G
 
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How is the water quality, it needs to be optimum. That red mark is not normal and a secondary bacterial infection can set in. You meed to address rhe eating problem 1st and get him eating. And address any water quality issues. If he starts eating and the water quality is good, if is is a secondary bacterial infection, it will likely clears itself.

@Big G

ill Change it again, but ammonia @ 0.
 
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How is the water quality, it needs to be optimum. That red mark is not normal and a secondary bacterial infection can set in. You meed to address rhe eating problem 1st and get him eating. And address any water quality issues. If he starts eating and the water quality is good, if is is a secondary bacterial infection, it will likely clears itself.

@Big G

Should I move him to the DT? Maybe a bigger tank will be more forgiving for his infection? (Since bacteria isn’t really contagious..?)

Only reason I’m doing a quarantine besides the obvious is because I want to train her to eat from Tom’s versus accidentally swiped in a fish only reason I’m doing a quarantine besides the obvious is because I want to train her to eat from town’s versus accidentally swiping in a fish (they’re all big tangs tho)
 

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Should I move him to the DT? Maybe a bigger tank will be more forgiving for his infection? (Since bacteria isn’t really contagious..?)

Only reason I’m doing a quarantine besides the obvious is because I want to train her to eat from Tom’s versus accidentally swiped in a fish only reason I’m doing a quarantine besides the obvious is because I want to train her to eat from town’s versus accidentally swiping in a fish (they’re all big tangs tho)

I still believe you have to establish eating first. Its antough call as the environment of the dt could prove to be less stressful, and encourage a feeding response. But if there is an issue with internal parasites, that is now spread to your dt, and the issue still hasnt been addressed. Personally I would movebthem intil they are eating and I have determined they are parasite free. Internal parasites is such a scrourge that foe predatory fish, it's more likely than not.

Lets see what @Big G has to say.
 
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spoke with Humblefish. He and a few others think the red is from the edge of the PVC. He recommended an H2O2 dip and move to DT to destress.

thank you, everyone! I’ll keep ya posted!
 

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