The Modified Black Box Thread

[ascheff]

I picked up some 165w Phlizon units and reconfigured almost all the chips on them. Next step was to do some testing with a Seneye to determine whether I go with or without lenses. While as expected I got much less of a PAR dropoff as I moved away from the light's center, the average PAR drop for all positions was pretty extreme - a 77% drop at 800mm (31.5 inch) and 68% drop at 400mm (15.7 inch) height.

Without a doubt I want to go with lenses, but which? I've been looking at beaded lenses and have seen some discussions on them on this thread, but not finding a definitive answer. With all else being equal, like lens angle etc., what is the difference between clear and beaded lenses when it comes to PAR, spread and color blending?

 

[Reef AquaCult]

An easy way I found to help the blending and fixing disco ball was to install a panel of 3/8” acrylic for the top and lightly sand it. You can sand it to your liking. It decreased my par by 10-20% but I think it’s worth it. You don’t need to modify the lenses at all so you don’t have to open the light! You can purchase 3/8” acrylic at a local acrylic shop and they will probably cut it for you. They might have some drops which would be cheaper.

 

[ascheff]

An easy way I found to help the blending and fixing disco ball was to install a panel of 3/8” acrylic for the top and lightly sand it. You can sand it to your liking. It decreased my par by 10-20% but I think it’s worth it. You don’t need to modify the lenses at all so you don’t have to open the light! You can purchase 3/8” acrylic at a local acrylic shop and they will probably cut it for you. They might have some drops which would be cheaper.

I have tested my lights using an opaque glass diffuser with the lenses removed, which does help with blending without much reduction in PAR compared to no lenses and clear glass.

I didn't however think it would have a useful effect with the lenses, since the lenses sit almost on the glass and I expect a bit of space is needed between the diffuser and individual light sources to blend the colors.

 

[Reef AquaCult]

I have tested my lights using an opaque glass diffuser with the lenses removed, which does help with blending without much reduction in PAR compared to no lenses and clear glass.

I didn't however think it would have a useful effect with the lenses, since the lenses sit almost on the glass and I expect a bit of space is needed between the diffuser and individual light sources to blend the colors.

My lights are about 8 inches above the sanded acrylic so you might be right about that.

 

[Reefs of Space]

I went to swap out some diodes on my new 300w MarsAqua. After taking off the lenses I realized these aren't the 45mil epistars. It seems they got rid of the zener diodes too. So, now if one goes out the whole board goes out? And I can't just resolder a new epistar in. How is this an upgrade?

 

[Reefs of Space]

I was helping a member here about led diode layouts for the Mars aqua black boxes, come to find out that the new ones that are being sold have a totally different board on them with different diode chips.

This will make them more difficult to modify. Thoughts?

It looks like they got rid of the zener diodes too. Hopefull the whole board doesn't stop working when one burns out.

 

[Flippers4pups]

It looks like they got rid of the zener diodes too. Hopefull the whole board doesn't stop working when one burns out.

Shouldn't.

 

[Reefs of Space]

Shouldn't.

I thought that the zener diode prevented that from happening.

 

[Flippers4pups]

I thought that the zener diode prevented that from happening.

Touche! Your are correct.

 

[Reefs of Space]

Touche! Your are correct.

I broke one of the smd leds when removing the lenses. I was able to solder in a 3w epistar. So, not a total loss. I haven't found any reef spectrum smd diodes for sale.

 

[o0jmadr0x0o]

I broke one of the smd leds when removing the lenses. I was able to solder in a 3w epistar. So, not a total loss. I haven't found any reef spectrum smd diodes for sale.

Hey I had the same problem, broke a chip trying to remove the lense.
Any more info on how you repaired it?
how did you remove the old chip?
How were you able to tell what side was positive/negative?
did you have to scratch away the black paint?
TIA

 

[Reefs of Space]

Hey I had the same problem, broke a chip trying to remove the lense.
Any more info on how you repaired it?
how did you remove the old chip?
How were you able to tell what side was positive/negative?
did you have to scratch away the black paint?
TIA

I filed a screwdriver down to pry off the SMDs. I needed to tap the back of the screwdriver with another one the knock off the diode.

 

[Reefs of Space]

The side with the bigger connection area is the positive side.

 

[Reefs of Space]

I had to scratch the black coating off to expose the positive and negative copper onlays. You have to offset it from where the SMD was. The bottom of the new led will make the connection on the tiny positive and negative and bypass the new led.

 

[oreo54]

Hmm, would the traces fit if one uses a thermal pad (electrically isolate the new diode from the old lead) so as to keep the lens geometry the same?

 

[o0jmadr0x0o]

OMG I got it to work!!!!
I have never even used it, its been sitting in my fish closet broken for 2 months. I was just procrastinating throwing it out!

Thank you very much
Reefs Of Space!!

 

[Reefs of Space]

OMG I got it to work!!!!
I have never even used it, its been sitting in my fish closet broken for 2 months. I was just procrastinating throwing it out!

Thank you very much
Reefs Of Space!!

You're welcome! It's a good feeling when you see the rest of that board light up

 

[Reefs of Space]

I installed an old burned out diode to see if the rest of the board would still work if one burns out. And it does! It just won't work if you accidentally break one.

 

[Pyrosteve]

I finally got a chance to swap some LEDs. My BB had the board siliconed in and the diodes had thermal adhesive instead of paste which made it harder that I thought but really happy with the results. Much better. I added 6-20Ks, 5-420mn (3 on white and 2 on blue channel), 3-cyan 490mn and 3-6500Ks in the place of 6-2700Ks, 2 reds, 6-14Ks & 2-450s. I tried to take off all the lenses but way too much light spill in the room so I just took them off the red, green and cyan. The blend/spread is way better and less disco but still some shimmer. Here's a before and after...

I bought a diffuser from HD and was going to cut it and use some magnets to attach it to the outside light but I don't think it's needed. Thanks to this thread!

 

[Heabel7]

I played with this way more than I should have. I've removed no lenses, some lenses, and all lenses, with and without diffusers. Finally settled on removing all lenses and adding diffusers.

This severely limits the max PAR I can achieve (200 is max now vs >300 with lenses) but has helped a lot with hot spots. I'm currently riding the theory that high PAR from LEDs is a bad thing, and this setup allows me to hit ~100-200 throughout the tank without detectable hot spots.

So with all the lenses off you get max 200par? How high are your lights off the water. And what depth is that maximum? In addition how about the par distribution from center hot spot to sides say 18-24”