★ 110 Gallon (In-Wall Office Dream SPS Reef Tank) ★ PROJECT GENESIS [Total Automation, DIY & More ]★

[NY_Caveman]

The cyano will go away on it's its own either way. If you wait it out.

I am impatient, but that is likely the best course of action. I am not interested in a chemical solution.

 

[Katrina71]

It's a pain. Andrew and I both prefer to wait it out.

 

[IgnatiusRath]

I'm usually a wait it out person with Cyano, however I've had some going on for a while not that just kept getting worse. It started when I was running a sulfer denitrator and dropped to 0 nitrates too fast. I was still vinegar dosing for carbon. After doing some reading and talking with some local friends, decided to pull the denitrator and the cyano kept getting worse and worse. Friend recommended phasing out the vinegar too as I was still feeding the cyano so it wouldn't go away. I tried my normal wait it out and it kept getting worse because I was still feeding it. Decided I may as well start cutting vinegar and it's been amazing how fast the cyano is dying off. I did increase flow slightly by cleaning all my powerheads and my gyre, but I saw a large reduction in about 24-36 after the first big bump down in vinegar. 2 weeks later and I've got the vinegar almost off and the cyano is mostly gone in my DT.

I think sometimes when we're adding something the bacteria can feed on, waiting it out may not be the best option unless we're doing something to improve good bacteria too. So cutting off or limiting the food supply, then waiting for things to balance out may be the right approach.

 

[IgnatiusRath]

Thanks for caring for the guy...... I check on him like 20 times a day. Hang around the corner peeking to see his behavior. Hoping. HOPING he starts eating.

Not sure what Nutrimar Ova is, but the Frozen CYCLOPS I am trying are as tiny as fresh frozen food gets.
Most fish go nuts, including Anthias when the spray of particulate food goes into tank.

But there is something, I noticed on the Video Camera when looking up the bottom Glass.
The are some live pods/shrimps crawling on the bottom glass. (tiny)
Maybe he is eating live food, but I doubt it.

But if he is....I just added Liquid Phytoplankton to the QT, and some Reef Chilli with Coral Frenzy Powder. To keep the Pods/Shrimps alive and possibly breeding.
He might eat some of the dust food too.
Tomorrow, I am going to collected some of my LIVE Tigger Pods from My Farm and add them too.

I'm polluting QT, but can do water changes more often to keep it clean.

I've been following along and thinking about your Anthias too. We almost need a QT twitch channel for the lil guy, then you could have multiple eyes on him 24/7 for odd behavior and monitoring. Heck, having some kind of QT streaming service we could all live feed tank vids too would be really cool actually. Group sourced monitoring of behavior and feedback could probably solve some mysteries for a lot of reefers!

 

[WallyB]

I've been following along and thinking about your Anthias too. We almost need a QT twitch channel for the lil guy, then you could have multiple eyes on him 24/7 for odd behavior and monitoring. Heck, having some kind of QT streaming service we could all live feed tank vids too would be really cool actually. Group sourced monitoring of behavior and feedback could probably solve some mysteries for a lot of reefers!

Yikes!!!
Maybe I misunderstood your idea.
Is it to have live Streams to everyone's QT having problems?
I can barely handle my own QT misery, and as much as watching others might make my situation seem trivial, I couldn't handle any more.

However, it does prove one important Fact I have learned. YOU GOT TO DO QT when the fish in your DT are important.
I've been following this thread for a while. Guy puts in fish into Tank not doing QT. He always did QT.
Fish brings in Disease.....He get's help and I was hopeful all went well with treating DT fish. Thread stops.
Few weeks later, things come back raging.
Terrible situation...Fish dying, getting strokes, going blind. I only glance since it's too much misery......I really feel for the guy.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/please-help-asap-velvet-infected-fish.467242/page-8#post-5428837

My petty One fish problem is nothing compared what he is going through.
Worth a read to learn the lesson, before this happens to you.

 

[WallyB]

I'm usually a wait it out person with Cyano, however I've had some going on for a while not that just kept getting worse. It started when I was running a sulfer denitrator and dropped to 0 nitrates too fast. I was still vinegar dosing for carbon. After doing some reading and talking with some local friends, decided to pull the denitrator and the cyano kept getting worse and worse. Friend recommended phasing out the vinegar too as I was still feeding the cyano so it wouldn't go away. I tried my normal wait it out and it kept getting worse because I was still feeding it. Decided I may as well start cutting vinegar and it's been amazing how fast the cyano is dying off. I did increase flow slightly by cleaning all my powerheads and my gyre, but I saw a large reduction in about 24-36 after the first big bump down in vinegar. 2 weeks later and I've got the vinegar almost off and the cyano is mostly gone in my DT.

I think sometimes when we're adding something the bacteria can feed on, waiting it out may not be the best option unless we're doing something to improve good bacteria too. So cutting off or limiting the food supply, then waiting for things to balance out may be the right approach.

For sure. Cyano will go away, unless you feed it.
So in your case you did vinegar and it fed the Cyano Bacteria which had a stronger population compared to the Good Bacteria.
That's why I believe in my CyanoClean (good Bacteria) method. Outcompete the Bad with Good.
** CyanoClean IS NOT ChemiClean, which is a chemical bacteria Killer ***
In the CyanoClean case, feeding bacteria may work. Or No feeding also works.
I've used it many times with success.

 

[Turbo's Aquatics]

CYANO/Detritus Sweep ( Multi Flow/Tip HOSE )

I've done something similar for dinos, just using a foot of rigid tubing and a couple feet of airline hose, start a siphon and pinch it off when you're not targeting something, that worked well to traverse an entire tank in 10 minutes and only pulling out about 1/2 gallon or less of water.

But I like this cascading idea, it gives you more suction power at the tip when you have a "head" of water pulling. The problem I see is losing the siphon due to the restricted flow, but as long as you have the end of the large hose submerged, that don't drain out from air intruding through the tip.

I have another idea to add to this though. Use a small squeeze ball in line with the smaller diameter hose - like one of those that is used on some siphon systems to start it. put an air gap in the line (somehow, so that water doesn't spray everywhere) after the ball. Now you basically have total control over flow, and the ability to apply a short burst of suction exactly when needed, but it won't continuously flow.

The downside is possibly that the pump-ball method might not work the way I'm thinking, because I think that ball pushes water out down the waste side rather than sucking water up the supply side when you squeeze it. So it's when you let off the ball that you get suction. Might have to refine that idea but I think you see where I'm going with it...

 

[IgnatiusRath]

Yikes!!!
Maybe I misunderstood your idea.
Is it to have live Streams to everyone's QT having problems?
I can barely handle my own QT misery, and as much as watching others might make my situation seem trivial, I couldn't handle any more.

However, it does prove one important Fact I have learned. YOU GOT TO DO QT when the fish in your DT are important.
I've been following this thread for a while. Guy puts in fish into Tank not doing QT. He always did QT.
Fish brings in Disease.....He get's help and I was hopeful all went well with treating DT fish. Thread stops.
Few weeks later, things come back raging.
Terrible situation...Fish dying, getting strokes, going blind. I only glance since it's too much misery......I really feel for the guy.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/please-help-asap-velvet-infected-fish.467242/page-8#post-5428837

My petty One fish problem is nothing compared what he is going through.
Worth a read to learn the lesson, before this happens to you.

Lol, I may not have stated it well. Was thinking of something like Twich but for fish tanks. Wouldn't be just problem fish in QT, although that could be something people stream if they wanted. Was more thinking it would be cool to have tank streams where people had their systems streaming when they felt like it or to show off the tank at times. Certainly in cases like yours you could open up a stream to a fish in QT for more eyes on it if people wanted and that's what lead to the thought. But then my mind wandered and I thought how cool would it be to watch feeding time at someones FOWLR specialty tank, or switch over to somebodies Rock Flower Nem growout tank during a spawning event. I dunno, I've spent enough time watching my friends play games because it was fun and I knew them; I'd be more interested in watching peoples tanks when they wanted to go live. Or helping out checking in on a sick fish occasionally if someone I knew was having issues.

 

[WallyB]

I've done something similar for dinos, just using a foot of rigid tubing and a couple feet of airline hose, start a siphon and pinch it off when you're not targeting something, that worked well to traverse an entire tank in 10 minutes and only pulling out about 1/2 gallon or less of water.

But I like this cascading idea, it gives you more suction power at the tip when you have a "head" of water pulling. The problem I see is losing the siphon due to the restricted flow, but as long as you have the end of the large hose submerged, that don't drain out from air intruding through the tip.

I have another idea to add to this though. Use a small squeeze ball in line with the smaller diameter hose - like one of those that is used on some siphon systems to start it. put an air gap in the line (somehow, so that water doesn't spray everywhere) after the ball. Now you basically have total control over flow, and the ability to apply a short burst of suction exactly when needed, but it won't continuously flow.

The downside is possibly that the pump-ball method might not work the way I'm thinking, because I think that ball pushes water out down the waste side rather than sucking water up the supply side when you squeeze it. So it's when you let off the ball that you get suction. Might have to refine that idea but I think you see where I'm going with it...

Ahhhh...... @Floyd R Turbo what fate, how did you come by this thread (didn't know you were following).
Now it clicks. It was on YOUR FORUM or WebSite that you stated the original Thin Tube Siphon Idea. Or maybe an email from you... (I couldn't recall where I read that a long while ago).
You are the ORIGINAL GENIUS. I wanted to give you credit as stated in my post above, and now proper Credit is given.

 

[Turbo's Aquatics]

how did you come by this thread (didn't know you were following).

 

[WallyB]

HANDSOME Follower PHOTO

Um....Err...hmmm.....A little younger than I imagined....I thought you had the more Mature Johnny Carson look. Your avatar always stuck in my mind.

 

[WallyB]

ANTHIAS UPdate (Last Chance to Eat).....DIP TIME is any minute

I turned on light for a while.....Gave him chance to wake up.
Feed him some fine foods, and watching. (See his behavior on Video)

Unlike other sick fish I've had in QT.
He looks Strong. Looks like he is trying to eat.


I would say one theory is he is BLIND and can't see the food. It does take a lot of hand waving to scare him. But lights on get him moving, so maybe not.

But if Rakie says FW DIP is no risk....Let's give it a shot.
At least I'll get some practice for a possible Next Time when FC Dip is needed.

 

[drawman]

ANTHIAS UPdate (Last Chance to Eat).....DIP TIME is any minute

I turned on light for a while.....Gave him chance to wake up.
Feed him some fine foods, and watching. (See his behavior on Video)

Unlike other sick fish I've had in QT.
He looks Strong. Looks like he is trying to eat.


I would say one theory is he is BLIND and can't see the food. It does take a lot of hand waving to scare him. But lights on get him moving, so maybe not.

But if Rakie says FW DIP is no risk....Let's give it a shot.
At least I'll get some practice for a possible Next Time when FC Dip is needed.

Yeah just keep it temp matched and well aerated and you'll be good to go.

 

[WallyB]

ONE CLOSEUP PHOTO (BEFORE DIP)

Man he does look healthy

. Maybe thin, but I see nothing.

 

[WallyB]

THE FUDSEY & RAKIE co. Miracle Baby Food Liquid Formula

(Is the Anthias Filter Feeding? ? ?)
I HAVE NEVER SEEN THIS kind of Fish behavior before


Haven't done FW dip. Too many distractions from Family. But ready.

So I did another mix of ReefChilli+CoralFrenzy+Selcon+Vitachem. Perfect QT Flow goes right by his hangout.

Got a really good reaction from him this time.

That Back and forth scooping motion, and the Jaw Snaps (wonder that that is).
Difficulty Swallowing?

FW Dip might help? I'm torn since there is Baby Steps progress here.....
(Don't want to disrupt things...could be BIG WHAT IF regrets if things go downhill)

 

[Rakie]

This is what I am thinking about aminos. The Coral Essentials seems very dense. I was adding one drop to my small 45 gallon AIO containing 35 gallons of saltwater. This drop would take time to dissipate. What if instead, I added five drops to my 5 gallon ATO reservoir? It would be far more diluted and add much slower than I can add with the single drop. I also considered just diluting the product outright.

I like the result I saw from the product a lot, i just speculate it is too much at that concentration.

My tank is young. I want to go slow. After I observe what happens over the next week or two, I may consider these options.

I'm using 8 drops in my tank, probably 40g water volume with frag tank included.


@WallyB -- You might consider a small UV for fish like this. You can get a small one like "The Green Machine" for about $40 or so. It should be more than enough for a small QT like that, and will help destroy whatever pathogens may be in there.

Otherwise a 4-5g water change with water that has been mixed and aerated for awhile may help.

 

[WallyB]

Yeah just keep it temp matched and well aerated and you'll be good to go.

How close of a MATCH on Temp.

0.5 Degrees F (the heater swing). I'm going a bit over and then add cooler RO just before dipping to get Perfect 0 Degree off (Overkill?)

 

[WallyB]

I'm using 8 drops in my tank, probably 40g water volume with frag tank included.


@WallyB -- You might consider a small UV for fish like this. You can get a small one like "The Green Machine" for about $40 or so. It should be more than enough for a small QT like that, and will help destroy whatever pathogens may be in there.

Otherwise a 4-5g water change with water that has been mixed and aerated for awhile may help.

That's not a bad idea for QT. I'm not interested of UV on DT, but QT would help kill off bad stuff.
Will think about it.....Don't plan on doing too many more QTs.

 

[IgnatiusRath]

That's not a bad idea for QT. I'm not interested of UV on DT, but QT would help kill off bad stuff.
Will think about it.....Don't plan on doing too many more QTs.

In before Wally posts in next day or two about the fully automated UV sterilizer he built himself and runs off of the Tank Mate. All functions depending on water clarity, oxygenation, air temp, the angle between the suns of Tatooine, variations in the force, and how much more the Enterprise can take

 

[WallyB]

In before Wally posts in next day or two about the fully automated UV sterilizer he built himself and runs off of the Tank Mate. All functions depending on water clarity, oxygenation, air temp, the angle between the suns of Tatooine, variations in the force, and how much more the Enterprise can take

Come on @ IgnatiusRath ......Now you are Getting ;Woot;WootSilly;Woot;Woot....



How could you forget not to include the RAKIE's Tree of Life, and the Tunnel System.