The cyano will go away on it's its own either way. If you wait it out.
I am impatient, but that is likely the best course of action. I am not interested in a chemical solution.
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The cyano will go away on it's its own either way. If you wait it out.
Thanks for caring for the guy...... I check on him like 20 times a day. Hang around the corner peeking to see his behavior. Hoping. HOPING he starts eating.
Not sure what Nutrimar Ova is, but the Frozen CYCLOPS I am trying are as tiny as fresh frozen food gets.
Most fish go nuts, including Anthias when the spray of particulate food goes into tank.
But there is something, I noticed on the Video Camera when looking up the bottom Glass.
The are some live pods/shrimps crawling on the bottom glass. (tiny)
Maybe he is eating live food, but I doubt it.
But if he is....I just added Liquid Phytoplankton to the QT, and some Reef Chilli with Coral Frenzy Powder. To keep the Pods/Shrimps alive and possibly breeding.
He might eat some of the dust food too.
Tomorrow, I am going to collected some of my LIVE Tigger Pods from My Farm and add them too.
I'm polluting QT, but can do water changes more often to keep it clean.
Yikes!!!I've been following along and thinking about your Anthias too. We almost need a QT twitch channel for the lil guy, then you could have multiple eyes on him 24/7 for odd behavior and monitoring. Heck, having some kind of QT streaming service we could all live feed tank vids too would be really cool actually. Group sourced monitoring of behavior and feedback could probably solve some mysteries for a lot of reefers!
For sure. Cyano will go away, unless you feed it.I'm usually a wait it out person with Cyano, however I've had some going on for a while not that just kept getting worse. It started when I was running a sulfer denitrator and dropped to 0 nitrates too fast. I was still vinegar dosing for carbon. After doing some reading and talking with some local friends, decided to pull the denitrator and the cyano kept getting worse and worse. Friend recommended phasing out the vinegar too as I was still feeding the cyano so it wouldn't go away. I tried my normal wait it out and it kept getting worse because I was still feeding it. Decided I may as well start cutting vinegar and it's been amazing how fast the cyano is dying off. I did increase flow slightly by cleaning all my powerheads and my gyre, but I saw a large reduction in about 24-36 after the first big bump down in vinegar. 2 weeks later and I've got the vinegar almost off and the cyano is mostly gone in my DT.
I think sometimes when we're adding something the bacteria can feed on, waiting it out may not be the best option unless we're doing something to improve good bacteria too. So cutting off or limiting the food supply, then waiting for things to balance out may be the right approach.
I've done something similar for dinos, just using a foot of rigid tubing and a couple feet of airline hose, start a siphon and pinch it off when you're not targeting something, that worked well to traverse an entire tank in 10 minutes and only pulling out about 1/2 gallon or less of water.CYANO/Detritus Sweep ( Multi Flow/Tip HOSE )
Yikes!!!
Maybe I misunderstood your idea.
Is it to have live Streams to everyone's QT having problems?
I can barely handle my own QT misery, and as much as watching others might make my situation seem trivial, I couldn't handle any more.
However, it does prove one important Fact I have learned. YOU GOT TO DO QT when the fish in your DT are important.
I've been following this thread for a while. Guy puts in fish into Tank not doing QT. He always did QT.
Fish brings in Disease.....He get's help and I was hopeful all went well with treating DT fish. Thread stops.
Few weeks later, things come back raging.
Terrible situation...Fish dying, getting strokes, going blind. I only glance since it's too much misery......I really feel for the guy.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/please-help-asap-velvet-infected-fish.467242/page-8#post-5428837
My petty One fish problem is nothing compared what he is going through.
Worth a read to learn the lesson, before this happens to you.
Ahhhh...... @Floyd R Turbo what fate, how did you come by this thread (didn't know you were following).I've done something similar for dinos, just using a foot of rigid tubing and a couple feet of airline hose, start a siphon and pinch it off when you're not targeting something, that worked well to traverse an entire tank in 10 minutes and only pulling out about 1/2 gallon or less of water.
But I like this cascading idea, it gives you more suction power at the tip when you have a "head" of water pulling. The problem I see is losing the siphon due to the restricted flow, but as long as you have the end of the large hose submerged, that don't drain out from air intruding through the tip.
I have another idea to add to this though. Use a small squeeze ball in line with the smaller diameter hose - like one of those that is used on some siphon systems to start it. put an air gap in the line (somehow, so that water doesn't spray everywhere) after the ball. Now you basically have total control over flow, and the ability to apply a short burst of suction exactly when needed, but it won't continuously flow.
The downside is possibly that the pump-ball method might not work the way I'm thinking, because I think that ball pushes water out down the waste side rather than sucking water up the supply side when you squeeze it. So it's when you let off the ball that you get suction. Might have to refine that idea but I think you see where I'm going with it...
how did you come by this thread (didn't know you were following).
Um....Err...hmmm.....A little younger than I imagined....I thought you had the more Mature Johnny Carson look. Your avatar always stuck in my mind.HANDSOME Follower PHOTO
ANTHIAS UPdate (Last Chance to Eat).....DIP TIME is any minute
I turned on light for a while.....Gave him chance to wake up.
Feed him some fine foods, and watching. (See his behavior on Video)
Unlike other sick fish I've had in QT.
He looks Strong. Looks like he is trying to eat.
I would say one theory is he is BLIND and can't see the food. It does take a lot of hand waving to scare him. But lights on get him moving, so maybe not.
But if Rakie says FW DIP is no risk....Let's give it a shot.
At least I'll get some practice for a possible Next Time when FC Dip is needed.
This is what I am thinking about aminos. The Coral Essentials seems very dense. I was adding one drop to my small 45 gallon AIO containing 35 gallons of saltwater. This drop would take time to dissipate. What if instead, I added five drops to my 5 gallon ATO reservoir? It would be far more diluted and add much slower than I can add with the single drop. I also considered just diluting the product outright.
I like the result I saw from the product a lot, i just speculate it is too much at that concentration.
My tank is young. I want to go slow. After I observe what happens over the next week or two, I may consider these options.
How close of a MATCH on Temp.Yeah just keep it temp matched and well aerated and you'll be good to go.
That's not a bad idea for QT. I'm not interested of UV on DT, but QT would help kill off bad stuff.I'm using 8 drops in my tank, probably 40g water volume with frag tank included.
@WallyB -- You might consider a small UV for fish like this. You can get a small one like "The Green Machine" for about $40 or so. It should be more than enough for a small QT like that, and will help destroy whatever pathogens may be in there.
Otherwise a 4-5g water change with water that has been mixed and aerated for awhile may help.
That's not a bad idea for QT. I'm not interested of UV on DT, but QT would help kill off bad stuff.
Will think about it.....Don't plan on doing too many more QTs.
In before Wally posts in next day or two about the fully automated UV sterilizer he built himself and runs off of the Tank Mate. All functions depending on water clarity, oxygenation, air temp, the angle between the suns of Tatooine, variations in the force, and how much more the Enterprise can take