3D Printing thread

[Entz]

I have good luck with Amazons filament both PLA and black PETG but the only advantage to it is cheap shipping.

Regarding the cup. Just watch the dimensions if you do the tall version. I am not completely familiar with that 3D model but Red Seas original in a Red Sea sump doesn't leave a massive amount of room between it and the bottom of the sump. A couple of inches at most, so the "colander" would need to be fairly shallow. The short one would be fine though.

Regarding print settings, don't be afraid to fail and tweak. What works for someone might not work for you because of modifications. Mine isn't an Ender 3 (remixed Ender 3 Pro basically) but I found I need to print PETG slow. Max 40 and need 80/75 bed and 240 on the extruder.

 

[Erica-Renee]

Nice design- similar to how I print COR20 guards. Though I do put a single circle of support in the middle, just to keep it flat.

This Device Required Water in or to work effectively

 

[TheHarold]

This Device Required Water in or to work effectively

Similar to many pumps

 

[Palluk33]

Trying to find the right setting to print PETG

 

[dantimdad]

Check your extrusion rate.

That looks pretty good!

 

[Palluk33]

Check your extrusion rate.

That looks pretty good!

Should I go higher or lower?

 

[Entz]

I agree it looks really good. I would be super happy if that was what I was getting. The bubbles on his forehead, if not part of the model, are likely a filament issue (air/moisture).

Lowering the rate will cause it to have less material come out which could help with stringing and possible some squishing (if that is what is around the base of the eyelet).

I love these for testing finer details (without going full Benchy). https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2656594

 

[dantimdad]

Entz is correct.

I would really leave it alone.

 

[Palluk33]

I agree it looks really good. I would be super happy if that was what I was getting. The bubbles on his forehead, if not part of the model, are likely a filament issue (air/moisture).

Lowering the rate will cause it to have less material come out which could help with stringing and possible some squishing (if that is what is around the base of the eyelet).

I love these for testing finer details (without going full Benchy). https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2656594

Thx I'm going to test it out tonight

 

[Entz]

I didn't like the way the Gooseneck worked in my sump with my little fuge, so I printed a lightstand for a Kessil H80 TF. It is way overbuilt but I wanted to make sure.

Forgot to take a finished picture so the Fusion 360 screenshot will have to do. I have attached the STL file if anyone wants to use, fairly specific combo of H80 TF + Reefer ATO to fuge combo. One of these days I will work on getting stuff into Thingiverse.

 

[Omega0397]

I'm sorry if I missed it in this thread, but does anyone know if the glow in the dark varieties of PLA or PETG reef safe?

 

[dantimdad]

My understanding is they are not.

The chemicals used to cause the fluorescence will leech.

 

[Vivid Creative Aquatics]

My understanding is they are not.

The chemicals used to cause the fluorescence will leech.

that's also my understanding as well - particularly with regular PLA. With PETG, it may or may not since it wont break down due to the water. However, since the pigment does contain potentially toxic chemicals we stay away form it for any that that is intended for use in the water.

 

[Omega0397]

Thank you guys for response. I just got a new printer and saw how well that stuff fluoresces under the UV wavelength.

 

[ludnix]

You can get some surprisingly bright flourescent from some of the yellow and green colors of regular PLA or ABS under the blue LEDS if you're thinking of coral price tags or similar items.

 

[ludnix]

I had been having trouble getting my build plate level lately. If the front leveling screws were bottomed out the back screws would need to be longer to get things level, something seemed very wrong but I couldn't tell what. I eventually discovered the actual build platform had a warp to it and had to be bent back into shape. I got much better results after warping the build platform roughly flat but I decided to just replace it with something a little more skookum and got this 2mm aluminum plate replace it. So far it's been a great upgrade and I'm having to adjust my leveling screws much less frequently now. A small upgrade I hadn't given much thought to before but has been a real improvement!

Old plate on top and new thicker plate on the bottom. The heat bed screws into this platform.

 

[biecacka]

Anyone ebuilt a bracket to hold the ballast for Orphek LEDS. I was thinking a design similar to the one built to hold the vortex here controllers. I use those and love them and am getting ready to hang some Orpheks and would love to have a similar bracket?

Corey

 

[dantimdad]

measurements?

 

[biecacka]

11in tall
5 7/8in wide
2.5inches thick


Corey

 

[ludnix]

There are no orphek accessories uploaded as of yet. That is a huge powerbrick too so I don't think the universal mounts will work for it. It would be a very easy model to make though fortunately. If you want to give it a shot Tinkercad its a great free tool for beginners!