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For the record I never did a blackout to beat this stuff. Just be diligent on the cleaning and GFO regimen it only took two treatments of GFO for me. I now no longer dose stump remover or phosphorus into the tank. I removed half of my Chaeto and added a bunch of smaller macro algae and added a auto pellet feeder. The majority of the new pellets are. Or eaten as it's too big for my fish. My cyano bacteria problem is mostly gone now but I keep at it by cleaning it out once a week with my water changes in my refugium where it grows. I'm starting to get some green hair algae in my display tank now that will go away with a fresh cleanup crew I'm ordering.
 

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My cyano bacteria problem is mostly gone now but I keep at it by cleaning it out once a week with my water changes in my refugium where it grows. I'm starting to get some green hair algae in my display tank now that will go away with a fresh cleanup crew I'm ordering.

Sounds like you're tank is moving in the right direction – great news!!! :)
 

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Hello:

Can you please help me id this? i dont know if it is Dino or the same Chrystophytes.

Sorry for the bad quality photos.

Thank you in advance.

David

IMG-9639.JPG


IMG-9641.JPG


IMG-9642.JPG
 

saltyfilmfolks

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Hello:

Can you please help me id this? i dont know if it is Dino or the same Chrystophytes.

Sorry for the bad quality photos.

Thank you in advance.

David

IMG-9639.JPG


IMG-9641.JPG


IMG-9642.JPG
That I belive is a Christophytes. Yes.


Welcome to reef2reef. Have you looked at the info in the thread, we can also direct you to more info to get rid of it as well.
 

reeferfoxx

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Definitely chrysophytes.

Manual removal with siphon or canister filter.

3 day black out with 24 hours of GFO on the first of three days. Monitor alkalinity.

Perform 25% water change after 3 day black out.

Don't reduce any increase of nutrients from treatment.
 

cancun1981

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Hello:

Thank you for your quick reply.

I have 0 phosphate, 0 nitrate. I shut down my skimmer to raise nitrate and po4.

After one week Phosphate is at .02 ppm (9 ppb hanna checker ULR) and nitrate doesnt goes up. I have a biopellet reactor, should i also take it off? .

I also disconect my GFO 3 days ago, and thats when PO4 start to raise.

I purchased Seachem Florish nitrogen, but i dont know how much to dose. My total system is 200 gals.

Thank you
 

reeferfoxx

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Hello:

Thank you for your quick reply.

I have 0 phosphate, 0 nitrate. I shut down my skimmer to raise nitrate and po4.

After one week Phosphate is at .02 ppm (9 ppb hanna checker ULR) and nitrate doesnt goes up. I have a biopellet reactor, should i also take it off? .

I also disconect my GFO 3 days ago, and thats when PO4 start to raise.

I purchased Seachem Florish nitrogen, but i dont know how much to dose. My total system is 200 gals.

Thank you
I would remove the bio pellets or reduce bio pellets until they are fully taken offline. In that time keep gfo offline. Once you get to the point where biopellets are offline, then perform procedure. There is a difference between running gfo fulltime versus flashing gfo. The amount of gfo you'll be flashing is the amount recommended for tank size opposed to 1/2 or 3/4 the amount.

If you look at the original post to this thread you'll see I tried many things. But doing a set procedure in order from start to finish wins the battle every time.
 

reeferfoxx

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Hello

Does a UV filter kill it. ? Or doesnt maje a diference?

Thank you
Thats a good question. I think it would in fact reduce the numbers but regrowth rate in chrysophytes is pretty high. With that, it's ability to clog mechanical filtration, at another fast rate, might cause some flow issues within the UV sterilizer. That said, I haven't tried it. UV was a taboo topic during my outbreak with majority of reefers assuming they didn't provide much of any benefit. With large recent dino outbreaks we see that UV is a great tool for reduction and eradication in dinos. So, my opinion on UV is that it should be utilized in reef systems as a precautionary "insurance policy". Again, I'm not sure if there is much benefit against chrysos.
 
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pboutin

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Hello

Does a UV filter kill it. ? Or doesnt maje a diference?

Thank you
I ran mine during my treatment. Mind you you will need quite a large UV filter to actually do any good. I have an Emperor Aquatics Smart Lite 40 Watt UV Sterilizer with 1 1/2" unions, on a ~260 gal system. Now that may seem overkill but to be honest I don't know if there was any effect of using it. In fact even though it's on my system i don't run it unless I need to.

Using UV certainly wont "Kill It" on its own. If you follow the instructions on this thread treatment is quite simple.
 

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Amazing read. Thanks all who contributed!
 

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Hi! I think you are in the right track with dosing no3. That will help releasee any locked po4. I noticed from an earlier post that your magnesium is really low. I think your corals would be happier if bumped up to 1300-1350.

So on to getting rid of chrysophytes. I think there is a benefit of combined efforts with dosing kno3, running GFO, and manual removal. In my 30 gallon i was able to rid chrysos in 3 days. First I cleaned out as much as possible with tooth brush and vacuum. I then added recommended amount for tank volumn of GFO for only 24 hours. I didn't start slow. This in turn dropped alkalinity, so monitoring is essential. Post GFO cleaning and water change, just make sure no3 is measurable as this will also release any other po4 locked away. For me it was that simple.
Good luck!
Hey Reeferfoxx,

Just wondering if I did anything wrong, I spent a couple hours scrubbing and vacuuming then ran GFO for 24 hours almost exactly and did a 10% water change. Checking today( a day later) I am seeing some strings of chrysophytes back, maybe not as much but if they are coming back I’m guessing it didn’t work.
 

John08007

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Hey Reeferfoxx,

Just wondering if I did anything wrong, I spent a couple hours scrubbing and vacuuming then ran GFO for 24 hours almost exactly and did a 10% water change. Checking today( a day later) I am seeing some strings of chrysophytes back, maybe not as much but if they are coming back I’m guessing it didn’t work.
These were tough for me to conquer. I believe vibrant is what did it for me.
 

buruskeee

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Definitely chrysophytes.

Manual removal with siphon or canister filter.

3 day black out with 24 hours of GFO on the first of three days. Monitor alkalinity.

Perform 25% water change after 3 day black out.

Don't reduce any increase of nutrients from treatment.
I don’t have a GFO reactor. Is throwing it in a media chamber in the sump fine?

What exactly is the process of removing with canister filter?
 

Miami Reef

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I don’t have a GFO reactor. Is throwing it in a media chamber in the sump fine?

What exactly is the process of removing with canister filter?
Why do you need GFO? Don’t believe everything you read online.

Chrysophytes do NOT use silica. Lowering phosphates with GFO will only make matters worse.

Keep nutrients detectable and slightly elevated. Dose sodium silica to encourage diatoms. Increase herbivores. If chrysophytes are really long, use a tooth brush or algae scraper to mow it down.
 

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