Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

awais98

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Check first post of this thread. Address nutrients - elevate PO4 first, then NO3 by dosing, not overfeeding.
Halt zeovit for now, and all forms of carbon dosing, Run GAC for toxins.
These dinos kill coral fast because they attach directly to coral from out of the water column. That also means they can be targeted in the water column by UV etc.

How do I elevate phos? Dosing schedule?
 

taricha

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How do I elevate phos? Dosing schedule?
If you use a product like seachem flourish phosphorus, it has calculation information on the bottle. for example each X number of milliliters per Y gallons raises phosphate by Z ppm etc.
If you buy a pure solid substance to be dissolved then we can work it out from the chemical formula, regardless of what you find Randy has probably already posted how to calculate. A forum search will get you the formula you are looking for probably.
Early on, people find they need to add phosphate daily or every two to three days, later on once it stabilized you can deal with it only once a week, and then eventually it's pretty well managed by feedings only.
 

mdd1986

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Anyone here try Birghtwell Aquatics microbacter Clean as a vibrant alternative? I received some to try out to help eliminate my dinos. So I will keep everyone posted on results.
 

mako72

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Trying the bleach method for the second time now on a Ostreopsis pest: both time they returned after few days.
I'm following the safe dose for 3 days, 1 dose every half day.
Am I missing something? Do I need to go on with a maintenance dose?
 
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mcarroll

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Trying the bleach method for the second time now on a Ostreopsis pest: both time they returned after few days.
I'm following the safe dose for 3 days, 1 dose every half day.
Am I missing something? Do I need to go on with a maintenance dose?

I would say that repeating a third time isn't going to produce different results than the first two times.

That's why I started this thread, in fact. ;)

Check out the first post in this thread and digest as much as possible including the links.

If you can post the history of your tank, inlcuding how the dino's started and what your nutrient levels have been like, we can probably help! :) :)
 

reeferfoxx

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we can probably help! :) :)
We can for sure help ;)

Update on my tank. Still dino free. Last night, I tested nutrients for the first time in a month and a half and I couldn't have been happier. Po4 at 0.02 and no3 at 10. No visual sign of Dino or algae. Coral are looking good too. :)
 

mdd1986

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We can for sure help ;)

Update on my tank. Still dino free. Last night, I tested nutrients for the first time in a month and a half and I couldn't have been happier. Po4 at 0.02 and no3 at 10. No visual sign of Dino or algae. Coral are looking good too. :)


Sorry if I missed it but what ended being the solution to your issue(s)?
 

reeferfoxx

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How long did it take to rid it with higher nutrients?
What took over the Dino?
It took my Dino's some time but it's dependant on the specie. So for me it took a month but then I experimented with different bottled bacteria and other methods to reduce other algae growth, only to have several reblooms. My advice would be to not experiment like I did lol. Some species though can disappear in days or weeks.

The nutrients we provide increase other micro fauna and Flora that help shift nutrient uptake from Dino's to beneficial organisms including bacteria. Those organisms outcompete so to speak.
 
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mcarroll

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How long did it take to rid it with higher nutrients?
What took over the Dino?

How long it takes and what phases come next are sorta dictated by how complete the dino's dominated the tank.

Numbers off the top of my head/from memory....A few (<5) tanks have been unrecoverable....A few tanks (<20?) have cleared just with dosing the nutrients.

My feeling is that most tanks would eventually clear with just the restoral of nutrients (or a nutrient balance) to the system.

Using filtration tools like UV and micron/diatom filtration can shorten the recovery time substantially for the cases that don't immediately recover on their own. This describes a high percentage of the cases here, IMO.

Micron filtration is cheaper to run. UV has been tested by more folks. Neither one is costly in the short term, so I'd probably run both if I had a tank to reclaim right now.
 

Andeyking

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Very effective. This specie does go into the water column at night and UV has shown to reduce numbers dramatically within days.

That's encouraging. I'll keep up with my nutrient dosing and hopefully make some progress.
Thanks for the information.
 

reeferfoxx

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That's encouraging. I'll keep up with my nutrient dosing and hopefully make some progress.
Thanks for the information.
No problem. If your Dino's became a problem for some time, it's wise to run GAC to reduce toxins as well as introduction of beneficial organisms such as live sand or rock from healthy systems.

For my tank, it was started with dry dead rock and so organisms were very limited. Once nutrients were maintained I added UV as well as live rock pieces and seeding other organisms like worms and pods. I also added Dr. Tim's one and only, Dr Tim's eco balance pro biotics, and very small amounts of seachem stability for bacterial diversity. Rebuilding the natural ecosystem is very important.
 

reeferfoxx

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UV, nutrients, and added microbial diversity can change everything! No black outs or bottles of magical promises!

20170928_191227.jpg

reeferfoxx_30gtank.jpg
 

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