Reefahholic

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Somebody told me you keep your NO3 at like 175 ppm. For sure they are off right?! :)

Where do you keep NO3 and PO4? Now I’m curious. I think a while back I watched one of your videos and if I remember correctly you were keeping higher nutrients but it wasn’t 175 high. More like 0.3 and 30??
 

Reefahholic

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See post #1541

Yeah, I was about to say! I couldn’t think of any logical reason why Acro’s would need NO3 more than 20-40 ppm. IMO once you start getting up to 50,60,70,80….you’re likely overfeeding or need to increase export, but over feeding seems to be the most common for high nitrates. It’s always the same story though…”I only feed one cube a day to my 350/G system.” :) They never tell you the 20 cubes a day they fed consistently for the 2 years prior. Hehe.

NO3 after 20-30ish I start to notice thicker tissue and slightly darker colors. I honestly don’t see much difference anywhere from 2-3 up to about 20ppm, or at least I can’t really tell.

I can’t see any real benefit from running it much higher than that. Maybe if somebody knows something that I don’t I’m all ears. Always willing to learn something new.

Phosphate is much more important for me. That is the one that will make or break a system, but nitrate can cause some serious issues too. I’ve seen some gnarly Cyano blooms with zero nitrate.
 
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Hows the salt switch going? you seen any rising ALK Levels?
that salt switch has been amazing literrly.

we do 15% water changes per week. Our normal alk is 8.5 When we do water changes the alk jumps to 9.25ish and then over the week it comes back down to 8.5. We have not seen any bad effects of this and have been watching this extreamly closely.

Also our ORP now stays around 450 which is awsome with the TMP it would never go over 400
 
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Somebody told me you keep your NO3 at like 175 ppm. For sure they are off right?! :)

Where do you keep NO3 and PO4? Now I’m curious. I think a while back I watched one of your videos and if I remember correctly you were keeping higher nutrients but it wasn’t 175 high. More like 0.3 and 30??

wow no3 of 175 that sound insane high maybe was a type.

we currently keep our no3 at 20-25 and po4 between .08 and .12

I think no3 of 175 is way to high

what is your current no3 levels and what kind of corals do you keep?
 

Reefahholic

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wow no3 of 175 that sound insane high maybe was a type.

we currently keep our no3 at 20-25 and po4 between .08 and .12

I think no3 of 175 is way to high

what is your current no3 levels and what kind of corals do you keep?

99% Acro. I try to run between 10-20 and 0.1-0.2.

This tank ATM does not like anything under 0.1ppm.
 

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Glad you found a routine that is working for you! Sometimes its just easier to keep things simple and do the basics.

The reason we need to dose some additives is because the salt is not high enough in a few things. For example the salt is not high enough in Iodine. We like to keep our Iodine at 90. Also the salt is not high enough in Strontium we like to keep it at 12ish.. The water changes are good but if the salt is only 75 on Iodine it will never go to 90 with just water changes. WIth the water changes essential you are taking out the 75 and adding additional 75.. so you are just replacing what you take out and the level will never go higher.. this i why we need to dose on top of the water changes.

thanks for your comments!
Was wondering what you use for iodine and strontium? Did y’all stop using ESV because of the extra Potassium? Did I see correctly that ESV 2-part had Mercury in your lab results too? Thanks for your time!
 

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that salt switch has been amazing literrly.

we do 15% water changes per week. Our normal alk is 8.5 When we do water changes the alk jumps to 9.25ish and then over the week it comes back down to 8.5. We have not seen any bad effects of this and have been watching this extreamly closely.

Also our ORP now stays around 450 which is awsome with the TMP it would never go over 400
I’ve heard mixed reviews on ORP what’s your take on it? I have the probe just because it came with the Apex and my reading fluctuates from 350-380
 

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Was wondering what you use for iodine and strontium? Did y’all stop using ESV because of the extra Potassium? Did I see correctly that ESV 2-part had Mercury in your lab results too? Thanks for your time!
If he’s still following moonshine it’s the seachem iodide and the Brightwell Strontium
 

X-37B

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Was wondering what you use for iodine and strontium? Did y’all stop using ESV because of the extra Potassium? Did I see correctly that ESV 2-part had Mercury in your lab results too? Thanks for your time!
Interesting as I have been using esv 2 part and esv strontium for over 6 years now with no issues.
I dose strontium once a week to maintain a 10+.
I use dsr ez trace daily to maintain mag, iodine, and K plus a few other elements.
I have done icp testing and its kept my systems stable for years.
 

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I just started reading this and you keep mentioning getting the Triton. I have been googling what a triton is I think you mean Neptune Trident. Disregard if you have corrected that, it was driving me crazy tying to figure out what you were talking about. :)
 

thatmanMIKEson

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I just started reading this and you keep mentioning getting the Triton. I have been googling what a triton is I think you mean Neptune Trident. Disregard if you have corrected that, it was driving me crazy tying to figure out what you were talking about. :)
 

Daniel@R2R

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@SBB Corals how long do you recommend waiting after a new tank is set up before adding SPS corals?
 

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If you were doing a tank swap with the same rock then the same day. No different than a 100% waterchange. All depends on the maturity and amount of rock IME
 
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@SBB Corals how long do you recommend waiting after a new tank is set up before adding SPS corals?
Brand new tank I would say 3 months. But you could try some super cheap sps Like$ 10 frag after a month or so
 
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For anybody looking for the home iodine crazy test follow the link below it works !!!
 

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