How to Quarantine

[deedubz]

Can you link me to their reaction?

I have two bottles of coppersafe and am waiting for a Hanna meter

That was their reaction to me. They essentially called us idiots.

Do you have an API test kit?
I found that dosing .88ml-1.07ml coppersafe per gallon of water yielded 1.81-2.07ppm. That said, I can't guarantee your bottle will have the same concentration as mine

 

[4FordFamily]

Can you link me to their reaction?

I have two bottles of coppersafe and am waiting for a Hanna meter

What reaction? They just denied everything in personal emails.

 

[Josh Kraft]

I thought someone posted they weren't using it anymore after their reaction, I can't find it now though.

I struggle with the API test

 

[Greenstreet.1]

I for one will never buy it after all this info. And as I said before I think we should all stop using it till they make a change after those reply’s from them.

 

[deedubz]

I think many of us won't. However, how many people are going to buy it at the lfs because they didn't read the thread? Sadly, I doubt they'll suffer any significant dip in business and countless fish will die because of it. Maybe, just maybe, they're taking these emails seriously and behind the scenes they'll work to correct their mistakes. I wouldn't hold my breath though..

 

[Pickleowl]

Have a question about SG and intial QT.. so I have my QT set up, cycled and all good and SG it is at 1.020 as I've heard alot of LFS are around this mark. Just got 2 clowns and SG is at 1.026 and I'm drip acclimating now but don't know how long it will take to get down to 020,, will it harm fish to just go down to 020 once temp acclimated or should I just drip them until it matches? I heard going down is easier on them than up but not sure if I could just drop them that far without issues..

 

[deedubz]

Have a question about SG and intial QT.. so I have my QT set up, cycled and all good and SG it is at 1.020 as I've heard alot of LFS are around this mark. Just got 2 clowns and SG is at 1.026 and I'm drip acclimating now but don't know how long it will take to get down to 020,, will it harm fish to just go down to 020 once temp acclimated or should I just drip them until it matches? I heard going down is easier on them than up but not sure if I could just drop them that far without issues..

Dropping down isn't nearly as dangerous as bringing them up. Assuming they've already been temp acclimated, I'd simply add a cup of tank water every few minutes. After it's has doubled in volume remove half and repeat process. They deadliest thing here will be them dripping too long and being exposed to ammonia

 

[deedubz]

Double post

 

[ChelleBelle127]

is it still necessary to do this even with fish you get from a store that quarantines them before they put them for sale?

 

[ncaldwell]

is it still necessary to do this even with fish you get from a store that quarantines them before they put them for sale?

Absolutely, the only person you can trust for quarantine is yourself

 

[deedubz]

is it still necessary to do this even with fish you get from a store that quarantines them before they put them for sale?

I've bought several fish from highly praised vendors on this forum, all of which claiming "pre quarantined" or "pre conditioned" specimens. Every single one came in with something. Generally flukes and/or internal parasites.

 

[4FordFamily]

is it still necessary to do this even with fish you get from a store that quarantines them before they put them for sale?

You may find this article on the topic helpful:

https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/lfs-fish-“treatment”-the-“sudden”-need-for-quarantine.308/

I've bought several fish from highly praised vendors on this forum, all of which claiming "pre quarantined" or "pre conditioned" specimens. Every single one came in with something. Generally flukes and/or internal parasites.

Indeed

 

[alpenreefer]

@Humblefish @Big G @HotRocks @dwwataz
Earlier in this thread I posted about a clown, which I sent a pic, and it was determined it had velvet. Unfortunately the clown died while in the DT, so I set up a QT with HOB, seeded w Bio Spira, moved the surviving fish and started a slow treatment of Cupramine over 48 hrs. Unfortunately I lost my Flame Hawk in the process. Dosage of Cupramine was completed several days ago, but now one of the fish (Canary Blenny) appears to have symptoms of Brooklynella (rapid breathing, not eating, blotches on head and body and around gills), not velvet. I tried to take a pic but it's hiding and I don't want to stress it any more than it is already. Can really see blotches with actinic lighting. DT is fallow. All fish are in Cupramine QT. I'm lost as how to treat the Blenny and what to do with the QT and other fish (no signs of anything). FW dip? Ich-X bath (low level Formalin; don't have Formalin-MS or QC)? Do I need to clean QT and start over? Need help!

 

[Big G]

You could consider dosing metro with the copper in the QT. If you do make sure to have a powerhead aimed up at the surface to compensate for O2 that may lower in the qt from the meds.

Metronidazole (exs. Seachem MetroPlex, Metro-MS, Hikari Metro+) is considered an alternative treatment for brook.

Otherwise you would have to pull the fish. Bathe it in Formalin, Acriflavine, etc. but then you need to put it into a new clean tank to avoid reinfection.

 

[HotRocks]

@Humblefish @Big G @HotRocks @dwwataz
Earlier in this thread I posted about a clown, which I sent a pic, and it was determined it had velvet. Unfortunately the clown died while in the DT, so I set up a QT with HOB, seeded w Bio Spira, moved the surviving fish and started a slow treatment of Cupramine over 48 hrs. Unfortunately I lost my Flame Hawk in the process. Dosage of Cupramine was completed several days ago, but now one of the fish (Canary Blenny) appears to have symptoms of Brooklynella (rapid breathing, not eating, blotches on head and body and around gills), not velvet. I tried to take a pic but it's hiding and I don't want to stress it any more than it is already. Can really see blotches with actinic lighting. DT is fallow. All fish are in Cupramine QT. I'm lost as how to treat the Blenny and what to do with the QT and other fish (no signs of anything). FW dip? Ich-X bath (low level Formalin; don't have Formalin-MS or QC)? Do I need to clean QT and start over? Need help!

+1 to adding metro to your current QT. I don't know if you have other fish in there with them. If you do, they all need to be treated even if asymptomatic. It is very possible you had both velvet and Brook going on at the same time. You took the velvet out of the equation, with cupramine. Now once you get the Brook handled, you should be disease free. With the sudden fish loss you had experienced, I would still complete the full copper treatment as well

 

[alpenreefer]

You could consider dosing metro with the copper in the QT. If you do make sure to have a powerhead aimed up at the surface to compensate for O2 that may lower in the qt from the meds.

Metronidazole (exs. Seachem MetroPlex, Metro-MS, Hikari Metro+) is considered an alternative treatment for brook.

Otherwise you would have to pull the fish. Bathe it in Formalin, Acriflavine, etc. but then you need to put it into a new clean tank to avoid reinfection.

I'll try and locate Metro, but I'll probably need to order online. This raises several questions:

Due to the wait for shipping, I will need to go the route of bathing all (5) fish in Ich-X (weaker Formalin @ <5%), how many baths would I need to do, what intervals, and for how long?

When I "clean" QT, does this include filtration (HOB, sponge, Matrix, etc.)?

Would I need to acclimate the fish to "Copper free" water in clean QT or just make sure temp/SG are same?

I will need to re-dose Cu in clean QT, and I now have both Cupramine and CopperPower. Should I go with the CopperPower this round?

I will get Metro one way or another, should I dose Metro in QT even if I do Formalin bath/clean QT?

+1 to adding metro to your current QT. I don't know if you have other fish in there with them. If you do, they all need to be treated even if asymptomatic. It is very possible you had both velvet and Brook going on at the same time. You took the velvet out of the equation, with cupramine. Now once you get the Brook handled, you should be disease free. With the sudden fish loss you had experienced, I would still complete the full copper treatment as well

Sorry for all the questions. Thank you both for all your help and direction.

 

[deedubz]

I'll try and locate Metro, but I'll probably need to order online. This raises several questions:

Due to the wait for shipping, I will need to go the route of bathing all (5) fish in Ich-X (weaker Formalin @ <5%), how many baths would I need to do, what intervals, and for how long?

When I "clean" QT, does this include filtration (HOB, sponge, Matrix, etc.)?

Would I need to acclimate the fish to "Copper free" water in clean QT or just make sure temp/SG are same?

I will need to re-dose Cu in clean QT, and I now have both Cupramine and CopperPower. Should I go with the CopperPower this round?

I will get Metro one way or another, should I dose Metro in QT even if I do Formalin bath/clean QT?



Sorry for all the questions. Thank you both for all your help and direction.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/brooklynella.247938/

 

[HotRocks]

I'll try and locate Metro, but I'll probably need to order online. This raises several questions:

Due to the wait for shipping, I will need to go the route of bathing all (5) fish in Ich-X (weaker Formalin @ <5%), how many baths would I need to do, what intervals, and for how long?

When I "clean" QT, does this include filtration (HOB, sponge, Matrix, etc.)?

Would I need to acclimate the fish to "Copper free" water in clean QT or just make sure temp/SG are same?

I will need to re-dose Cu in clean QT, and I now have both Cupramine and CopperPower. Should I go with the CopperPower this round?

I will get Metro one way or another, should I dose Metro in QT even if I do Formalin bath/clean QT?



Sorry for all the questions. Thank you both for all your help and direction.

I will let @Big G or @Humblefish answer on the use of formalin.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/formalin.290925/

If you plan to place them back in the same tank, yes everything would have to be completely sterilized and dry before it could be used again and deemed safe to say its "Clean". Which is why it may be easier to just treat the tank with metro. I am not sure that the time available during the bath will allow you to do this successfully. I think Big G was referring to the use of a 2nd sterile QT that would have to be already set up and running so you could go from QT1 to Bath to QT2, all within 30-45 minutes.

You do not have to acclimate them to copper free, only when introducing them to copper (Which is why extended the ramp up is recommended unless dealing with velvet). Also If you remove them from copper to do a bath, then I do believe it would restart your clock on the 30 day copper treatment (At any point during the 30 day copper treatment, you drop below the therapeutic level, the clock resets). This is also another reason dosing metro may be easier.

If you are going to break down and sterilize QT, I think you could go back with either copper. If they are all tolerating cupramine well and still eating, I'd be apt to tell you to continue with it. If you are starting back from square one either should be fine though.

I don't know what your LFS situation is, but we have a couple here where I live that do carry metroplex. They are smaller locally owned stores, not bigboxes.

 

[deedubz]

Ideally, yes you'd want to get another set of everything(if you go the formalin route). If that isn't an option then dosing metro into the qt will work. Unlike ich or velvet, brook doesn't have a cyst stage(I think) so by dosing metro you're effectively wiping it all out

 

[Humblefish]

If any chemical has a chance of eradicating parasites with a direct lifecycle (brook, uronema) with just one 45 min bath, it would be formalin. However, the closer the product is to being “proper formalin” (37% Formaldehyde), the more potent it is, and the greater the chance of success.

After the formalin bath, it is very important to transfer the fish into a new/clean QT to prevent reinfection. Do not reuse ANYTHING from the tank the fish was previously housed in (before the formalin bath) to setup this tank.

I also HIGHLY RECOMMEND dosing metronidazole, every 48 hrs, for 10-14 days just to be sure all the parasites are gone: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/metronidazole.298762/. Think of it as an insurance policy.

ALSO, a fish infected with uronema should be fed food soaked with metronidazole because the disease can spread internally. A formalin bath/metro in the water is unlikely to reach these internal parasites. Seachem Focus can be used to bind the medication to the food.