Hyposalinity for prazi resistant flukes?

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

Make sure copper is predosed to 5 gallon bucket before water change.

Basically: don’t change your water (with copper) with fresh unmedicated saltwater.

The new water should be predosed with the copper concentration. You don’t want the dose to be erratic because ich/velvet can reattach to fish when copper is below therapeutic.

Ok, yes I read that. Thank you so much.

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

Make sure copper is predosed to 5 gallon bucket before water change.

Basically: don’t change your water (with copper) with fresh unmedicated saltwater.

The new water should be predosed with the copper concentration. You don’t want the dose to be erratic because ich/velvet can reattach to fish when copper is below therapeutic.

Ok, copper reads 2.56ppm now. I'll log my first day for copper tomorrow.

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

Hey, umm...What's the correct way to top off my water from evaporation. Being that copper power doesn't precipitate out I'm pretty sure, I don't think I can add any copper power to my top off water. Would I just drip the freshwater slowly into the tank to top it off?

 

[Miami Reef]

Ohh. I know JUST the solution!

Take duct tape and make the top of the tape exactly to the waterline. I noticed when the waterline is halfway through the tape the copper reaches 2.6ppm. I add my water in one shot without any problems! Fish can handle going down in salinity (topping off) very well.

I’m due for a top off.
Edit: yes, I realize my PVC is way too big. I got to get a smaller one.

 

[Miami Reef]

Update: This is how it should be.

The red tape on the bottom right tells me how much 10 gallons is (so I don’t have to drain in 5 gallon buckets to measure). It’s not really needed for your tank size unless you want it.

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

Ohh. I know JUST the solution!

Take duct tape and make the top of the tape exactly to the waterline. I noticed when the waterline is halfway through the tape the copper reaches 2.6ppm. I add my water in one shot without any problems! Fish can handle going down in salinity (topping off) very well.

I’m due for a top off.
Edit: yes, I realize my PVC is way too big. I got to get a smaller one.

Wait...I'm confused. You just dump the freshwater in, in one shot when the water level gets too low?

I suggested that I drip it slowly, so the diseases have little chance to attach themselves to the fish as it would only drip drop by drop, mixing in the water well.

 

[Miami Reef]

Wait...I'm confused. You just dump the freshwater in, in one shot when the water level gets too low?

I suggested that I drip it slowly, so the diseases have little chance to attach themselves to the fish as it would only drip drop by drop, mixing in the water well.

I spread it over the top. The copper concentration never lowers below 2.5.

Its different than removing and adding 50% of unmedicated water.

The top off water mixes into the correct concentration instantly.

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

I spread it over the top. The copper concentration never lowers below 2.5.

Its different than removing and adding 50% of unmedicated water.

The top off water mixes into the correct concentration instantly.

Ok, I get what you mean now.

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

I spread it over the top. The copper concentration never lowers below 2.5.

Its different than removing and adding 50% of unmedicated water.

The top off water mixes into the correct concentration instantly.

Ok 1 more question for tonight...do you think it matters what temp I keep the quarantine tank at? Thinking about the life cycle of ich being shorter at higher temps...

Currently set to 78 degrees.

 

[Miami Reef]

Ok 1 more question for tonight...do you think it matters what temp I keep the quarantine tank at? Thinking about the life cycle of ich being shorter at higher temps...

Currently set to 78 degrees.

This is a great question. It’s proven that ich will complete its life cycle quicker at higher temps. You can safely keep your temp anywhere from 78F-81F.

One thing is that lower temps = higher oxygen. Having a large bioload with mixing medications would benefit from lower temps. It’s striking a balance between the two.

You have a tiny bioload so you can go around 80F-81F with no problems. But you will succeed regardless of temp (within reason). Nobody really pays attention to temps in QT.

This is optional. It may raise your chance of success. But copper for 30 days has a huge track record, so it won’t really matter in the grand scheme of things.

The biggest reason why QT fails is from cross contamination.

A 2 week observation period in clean, unmedicated water is a must regardless of what QT method we choose. Imagine the struggle of having to remove, fallow, and retreat everything all over again because of something that could have been prevented with a double check.

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

This is a great question. It’s proven that ich will complete its life cycle quicker at higher temps. You can safely keep your temp anywhere from 78F-81F.

One thing is that lower temps = higher oxygen. Having a large bioload with mixing medications would benefit from lower temps. It’s striking a balance between the two.

You have a tiny bioload so you can go around 80F-81F with no problems. But you will succeed regardless of temp (within reason). Nobody really pays attention to temps in QT.

This is optional. It may raise your chance of success. But copper for 30 days has a huge track record, so it won’t really matter in the grand scheme of things.

The biggest reason why QT fails is from cross contamination.

Yes, Ive heard you can't use anything wet between tanks. But I have things dedicated to my qt. Only thing I may use with both is my test kits but I put some water into a new solo cup first before I use the test kit. And I wash almost everything with water after use and let it dry out before my next use.

 

[Miami Reef]

Yes, Ive heard you can't use anything wet between tanks. But I have things dedicated to my qt. Only thing I may use with both is my test kits but I put some water into a new solo cup first before I use the test kit. And I wash almost everything with water after use and let it dry out before my next use.

Thoroughly drying kills ALL saltwater parasites. The only thing it won’t remove is the copper so anything that’s been exposed and entered into you DT can release and harm inverts and corals.

By the way, are you planning on keeping inverts and corals?

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

Thoroughly drying kills ALL saltwater parasites. The only thing it won’t remove is the copper so anything that’s been exposed and entered into you DT can release and harm inverts and corals.

By the way, are you planning on keeping inverts and corals?

Yes, I have 10 cerith Snails and 1 coral banded shrimp in my display rn. I want corals too but I think I'm going to wait until after fallow to start messing with them.

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

This is a great question. It’s proven that ich will complete its life cycle quicker at higher temps. You can safely keep your temp anywhere from 78F-81F.

One thing is that lower temps = higher oxygen. Having a large bioload with mixing medications would benefit from lower temps. It’s striking a balance between the two.

You have a tiny bioload so you can go around 80F-81F with no problems. But you will succeed regardless of temp (within reason). Nobody really pays attention to temps in QT.

This is optional. It may raise your chance of success. But copper for 30 days has a huge track record, so it won’t really matter in the grand scheme of things.

The biggest reason why QT fails is from cross contamination.

A 2 week observation period in clean, unmedicated water is a must regardless of what QT method we choose. Imagine the struggle of having to remove, fallow, and retreat everything all over again because of something that could have been prevented with a double check.

After my copper treatment is done do I remove it with carbon or should I buy another 10 gal and move them there for observation?

 

[Miami Reef]

After my copper treatment is done do I remove it with carbon or should I buy another 10 gal and move them there for observation?

Use the same tank. Water changes are much more faster and effective at removing copper than carbon.

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

Use the same tank. Water changes are much more faster and effective at removing copper than carbon.

Ok, thanks. I'll leave you for now and let you have a break lol. There's just so much to learn.

 

[Miami Reef]

Ok, thanks. I'll leave you for now and let you have a break lol. There's just so much to learn.

You’re all good!

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

Emergency? @Jay Hemdal @Miami Reef @vetteguy53081 @Humblefish

Anyone who isn't caught up. I have 2.5ppm of copper power and only 1 dose of metro in my qt. I've dosed prazipro 4x in the display tank and then after that I gave them a few dip, then they went straight into this sterile qt which was seeded with biospira.

I've been watching them and it seems like something is biting them. Breathing a bit fast, opening mouth/ yawning. Jerking. Staying near bottom. Face might be pale too.

Here is a 2nd video that is 46 seconds. Here is a link to YouTube being that I can't upload it on r2r. Captures almost all her symptoms. Hard to watch

 

[Jay Hemdal]

I've been watching them and it seems like something is biting them. Breathing a bit fast, opening mouth/ yawning. Jerking. Staying near bottom. Face might be pale too.

Here is a 2nd video that is 46 seconds. Here is a link to YouTube being that I can't upload it on r2r. Captures almost all her symptoms. Hard to watch

I'm not all sure what you've gone through and discussed (five pages worth!) but with no spots being evident, and deep, only slightly elevated breathing, yawning and head shaking, have you thought about gill flukes?

Jay