Ich on butterfly - hypo or copper?

[Eienna]

I just purchased a Klein's butterfly. It's doing wonderfully but does a quick dart occasionally. I'm not going to jump the gun here, but if it does begin to show ich, what treatment do butterflies handle best? Hypo or copper? I'm not asking for personal preference; if it was only a question of that I'd already have the fish in copper.

 

[Humblefish]

I've successfully treated them in copper and CP. I prefer the latter.

 

[Eienna]

CP? What's that?

 

[Eienna]

I've successfully treated them in copper and CP. I prefer the latter.

What would CP be? Cupramine? I have that...
He's definitely scratching himself, though I don't see any spots yet. I think I'd best treat with cupramine while he's still eating.

 

[Humblefish]

CP? What's that?

Chloroquine phosphate: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/chloroquine-phosphate.192309/

When he scratches does he target the gill area or the body? The former could mean parasites or Monogeneans (flukes) inside the gills. Flukes require a different treatment (Prazipro) than ich/velvet.

 

[Eienna]

I can't really

Chloroquine phosphate: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/chloroquine-phosphate.192309/

When he scratches does he target the gill area or the body? The former could mean parasites or Monogeneans (flukes) inside the gills. Flukes require a different treatment (Prazipro) than ich/velvet.

I really can't tell, unfortunately.
I do believe the copper should still kill off invertebrates like flukes...I'll go look it up.

 

[Eienna]

@Humblefish
OK, you appear to be right; the copper probably won't kill gill flukes. I was intending to deworm it anyway before it goes in, so once my copper treatment is done or if the fish appears to be getting worse, I will change water and try the prazipro. Thankfully, I do have that on hand.

 

[Humblefish]

How comfortable are you doing a FW dip? That would confirm whether or not flukes are present (see below in red). If no flukes show up, assume parasites and treat with copper.

Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes & "Black Ich", Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.

How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.

Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.

For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.

Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.

 

[Eienna]

I appreciate the info.
I'm personally highly nervous about FW dips. I know they work, I've just had some bad experiences. :/ I also don't want to stress him any more than I absolutely have to. I love his attitude right now, bold but not bossy. I don't want to make him afraid of me - which means no catching until it's time for him to move to the big tank. If it starts looking like he's feeling unwell or is flashing more instead of less, then I might consider it, but I don't want to bother him unless it's necessary.