Randy's Tank and Learn Thread

[Freenow54]

Welcome to Randy's Tank and Learn Thread!

First, why that particular title?

I started my last reef tank in August of 1995, and ultimately took it down in March of 2016, after more than 20 years of enjoyment. I’ve learned a lot since then, but not nearly enough. The title reflects the idea that this tank thread will be different than most, and will be focused around learning, both for readers and for me. As I proceed to set up and maintain a new reef tank, I will encounter all sorts of challenges that I will address extensively in this thread.

Some recent days the list of challenges seemed endless. Some I’ve already encountered and gotten great help for, and will recount these in this thread. Future challenges will include things I’ve done before, and some I have not. For many of these topics, I will request input from readers on how to best do certain things, and what are the pros and cons of the various paths forward. Some will obviously be chemical challenges (e.g., what to dose and how and why, DIY materials of various sorts, etc.), but others will not be (e.g., what corals look best in white light).

My intent overall is to first tell folks what I'm thinking of doing, gathering suggestions of how others think I might go about it, then doing it, tracking if it seemed to work, etc. My hope is that a wide range of folks will follow this thread, both to learn things they do not know, and to help with things they do. In many cases, each post I make will have a heading that summarizes it in a “topic of the day” type of discussion.

I won’t belabor the reasons for taking down my previous tank, but electricity cost was a big factor. Fast forward to today, and there have been huge changes in the reefing world, not least of which is more electrically efficient equipment. Rev (revhtree, owner of Reef2Reef) asked me a couple of times if I had an interest in restarting a tank, and I decided last fall that the time was right to start again. In discussions with Rev, he suggested that perhaps some Reef2Reef sponsors might be willing to help out, and that has turned out to be true. I want to express a very big thank you to three companies:

TBS (Tampa Bay Saltwater), providing their “package” of rock, sand, and some clean up crew

Tunze, providing powerheads (Stream 6105 eco), a skimmer (9410), an Osmolator 3, and an RO controller (8555)

BRS (Bulk Reef Supply), providing discounts on a wide range of items (still being set up)

As my tank story unfolds, there will be more about why I chose these specific items, how I’m using them, etc. An important thing to note is that these are the specific items I felt would best serve this tank. Folks may have noticed a bunch of threads I started recently asking for folks experiences with various things (e.g., lights, bulkheads, etc.). This tank is why. I made a wish list of items I wanted and Rev worked to find a way to help make it happen. Thanks, Rev! It was not the other way around, of a company trying to convince me to try something. I picked these things so it’s on me to have chosen correctly.

So let’s roll on, have fun, and learn together!

So I remember a post you made regarding flow. You stated it should be moving the sand. In light of what you are trying to accomplish I am really interested in your coral suggestion as achieving high Par should be easily done. That said I have a belief that high light , and high flow encourage algae growth regardless of parameters. I relally want to see a conclusive way to stop algae growth. My blocking the light method is working perfectly for me but also is hand in hand with my chosen coral type.

 

[Freenow54]

Welcome to Randy's Tank and Learn Thread!

First, why that particular title?

I started my last reef tank in August of 1995, and ultimately took it down in March of 2016, after more than 20 years of enjoyment. I’ve learned a lot since then, but not nearly enough. The title reflects the idea that this tank thread will be different than most, and will be focused around learning, both for readers and for me. As I proceed to set up and maintain a new reef tank, I will encounter all sorts of challenges that I will address extensively in this thread.

Some recent days the list of challenges seemed endless. Some I’ve already encountered and gotten great help for, and will recount these in this thread. Future challenges will include things I’ve done before, and some I have not. For many of these topics, I will request input from readers on how to best do certain things, and what are the pros and cons of the various paths forward. Some will obviously be chemical challenges (e.g., what to dose and how and why, DIY materials of various sorts, etc.), but others will not be (e.g., what corals look best in white light).

My intent overall is to first tell folks what I'm thinking of doing, gathering suggestions of how others think I might go about it, then doing it, tracking if it seemed to work, etc. My hope is that a wide range of folks will follow this thread, both to learn things they do not know, and to help with things they do. In many cases, each post I make will have a heading that summarizes it in a “topic of the day” type of discussion.

I won’t belabor the reasons for taking down my previous tank, but electricity cost was a big factor. Fast forward to today, and there have been huge changes in the reefing world, not least of which is more electrically efficient equipment. Rev (revhtree, owner of Reef2Reef) asked me a couple of times if I had an interest in restarting a tank, and I decided last fall that the time was right to start again. In discussions with Rev, he suggested that perhaps some Reef2Reef sponsors might be willing to help out, and that has turned out to be true. I want to express a very big thank you to three companies:

TBS (Tampa Bay Saltwater), providing their “package” of rock, sand, and some clean up crew

Tunze, providing powerheads (Stream 6105 eco), a skimmer (9410), an Osmolator 3, and an RO controller (8555)

BRS (Bulk Reef Supply), providing discounts on a wide range of items (still being set up)

As my tank story unfolds, there will be more about why I chose these specific items, how I’m using them, etc. An important thing to note is that these are the specific items I felt would best serve this tank. Folks may have noticed a bunch of threads I started recently asking for folks experiences with various things (e.g., lights, bulkheads, etc.). This tank is why. I made a wish list of items I wanted and Rev worked to find a way to help make it happen. Thanks, Rev! It was not the other way around, of a company trying to convince me to try something. I picked these things so it’s on me to have chosen correctly.

So let’s roll on, have fun, and learn together!

I wanted to suggest something which may talk to your electricity usage or Impact. I have quit using power heads . I think they are intrusive wasteful, ugly. I intend to use external pumps to circulate the water using clear tubing. I think its easier to control flow for various reasons , and not in your display not only for the aforementioned reasons but electrical safety as well " no more close calls " The tubing would be easy to camouflage. I am using a canister filter so it even doubles as a wave maker if you will.

 

[rtparty]

I wanted to suggest something which may talk to your electricity usage or Impact. I have quit using power heads . I think they are intrusive wasteful, ugly. I intend to use external pumps to circulate the water using clear tubing. I think its easier to control flow for various reasons , and not in your display not only for the aforementioned reasons but electrical safety as well " no more close calls " The tubing would be easy to camouflage. I am using a canister filter so it even doubles as a wave maker if you will.

Powerheads are by far the most efficient way to create flow in a tank. External pumps are extremely inefficient for this purpose

For example, a new Tunze 6075 moves over 2000gph using 8 watts

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

So I remember a post you made regarding flow. You stated it should be moving the sand. In light of what you are trying to accomplish I am really interested in your coral suggestion as achieving high Par should be easily done. That said I have a belief that high light , and high flow encourage algae growth regardless of parameters. I relally want to see a conclusive way to stop algae growth. My blocking the light method is working perfectly for me but also is hand in hand with my chosen coral type.

I don’t remember saying sand should be moving. The large grain tbs sand is not likely to move around my tank much.

I don’t have any special plan for algae except herbivores. If the ordinary clean up crew types and the yellow tang to not do an adequate job, then the next step up is a more voracious algae eating fish, such as a one spot foxface, which did a good job in my last tank. I think I’ll cross that bridge if and when I get to it. :)

 

[Freenow54]

Powerheads are by far the most efficient way to create flow in a tank. External pumps are extremely inefficient for this purpose

For example, a new Tunze 6075 moves over 2000gph using 8 watts

That is my point. You cannot control the flow. It is what it is. In my scenario it is detrimental to my coral to have that velocity. I was looking for electrical ways to control the flow, and from answers from others found it is impossible with straight up AC heads. I more so was not talking about efficiency but the appearance of the display and safety down the road from induced or leaked voltage as well as straight up poor installation with no drip legs plugged into receptacles causing fires , and possible death, with a pacemaker a shock could be enough

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I wanted to suggest something which may talk to your electricity usage or Impact. I have quit using power heads . I think they are intrusive wasteful, ugly. I intend to use external pumps to circulate the water using clear tubing. I think its easier to control flow for various reasons , and not in your display not only for the aforementioned reasons but electrical safety as well " no more close calls " The tubing would be easy to camouflage. I am using a canister filter so it even doubles as a wave maker if you will.

I’ll have some detailed threads on the in-tank Tunze 6105 Eco pumps in the near future, but they are very efficient and are low voltage. They are said to use only 5-11 w each, and I currently have them cycling between 10 and 29% power.

One substantial advantage is they can also connect directly to a standard 12v battery for backup with no inverter. Battery comes tomorrow, so I'll post details when it’s up and running.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

That is my point. You cannot control the flow. It is what it is. In my scenario it is detrimental to my coral to have that velocity. I was looking for electrical ways to control the flow, and from answers from others found it is impossible with straight up AC heads. I more so was not talking about efficiency but the appearance of the display and safety down the road from induced or leaked voltage as well as straight up poor installation with no drip legs plugged into receptacles causing fires , and possible death, with a pacemaker a shock could be enough

I can control my flow in 1% increments, as low as I want.

 

[Freenow54]

I can control my flow down to 1% of full.

so they are converted to DC? I saw some pumps for crazy prices here and assumed they came with a converter or inverter which ever is the correct language. please confirm
Regards Wally

 

[Freenow54]

I’ll have some detailed threads on the in-tank Tunze 6105 Eco pumps in the near future, but they are very efficient and are low voltage. They are said to use only 5-11 w each, and I currently have them cycling between 10 and 29% power.

One substantial advantage is they can also connect directly to a standard 12v battery for backup with no inverter. Battery comes tomorrow, so I'll post details when it’s up and running.

Please do not forget very interested in this.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Yes, the Tunze 6105’s run on low voltage DC from their power supply that plugs into the wall.

 

[rtparty]

That is my point. You cannot control the flow. It is what it is. In my scenario it is detrimental to my coral to have that velocity. I was looking for electrical ways to control the flow, and from answers from others found it is impossible with straight up AC heads. I more so was not talking about efficiency but the appearance of the display and safety down the road from induced or leaked voltage as well as straight up poor installation with no drip legs plugged into receptacles causing fires , and possible death, with a pacemaker a shock could be enough

All unfounded fear and easily avoided

Buy the proper sized power heads to begin with and aim them where needed. DC power heads are cheap these days and have shown plenty of reliability

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Nitrate Testing

Got the Hanna nitrate HR from Amazon. Clearly I’m early in the learning curve, but after a few tries, I think it is reading 0.0 and I cannot see a difference between a blank and the treated sample.

I think I need to restart the ammonia dosing and/or ramp up ghost feeding. It may be the reason for the cyano scum is lack of N, which it can get from N2.

Don’t have the phosphate kit yet, but I dosed some of it along with some ammonia.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Skimming

Decided to restart my skimmer. Too many bubbles in Brute 1 where the water comes down from the main tank. Don’t have enough timers yet, but I may turn it off for a few h when the phyto is dosing.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Backup Power

My backup battery arrived today. For now I have just one. Might add a second in the future, but this one will run my Tunze powerheads for several days (2-5 days, depending on settings).

This is the battery from Amazon. It is a Renology 100 AH AGM sealed lead acid battery.

https://a.co/d/4Bo40s8

They hook to the Tunze powerheads using these Tunze safety connectors. They take power from the 110 v plug (which is a dc converter) and also from the battery directly (no Inverter). When the power cuts off, these connectors switch to the battery automatically. I unplugged the powerheads from the wall and it worked.

This is the battery in the basement. I bought some wire from Amazon and you can see it coming down from above, through the same floor hole as the silicone tubing water return. Each powerhead has its own safety connector, and both are fed by the one wire.

I have it being constantly charged by a regular car trickle charger that I had around. The battery charged a maybe a half hour, then the charger lit that it was charged.

The battery was packed like I’ve never seen before. Foam inside a box inside foam inside another box. It’s heavy (67 pounds).

 

[Miami Reef]

How’s your day, Randy?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

How’s your day, Randy?

Good. My new bees are very happy about the warm day after arriving in a cold rain. lol

 

[bradreef]

Nitrate Testing

Got the Hanna nitrate HR from Amazon. Clearly I’m early in the learning curve, but after a few tries, I think it is reading 0.0 and I cannot see a difference between a blank and the treated sample.

I think I need to restart the ammonia dosing and/or ramp up ghost feeding. It may be the reason for the cyano scum is lack of N, which it can get from N2.

Don’t have the phosphate kit yet, but I dosed some of it along with some ammonia.

The Hanna nitrate actually turns pink to reddish as the number goes up. If it is clear then it's very low or nothing. The color change is much more noticeable that the light blue in the phos tester. Even .5 nitrates shows a little pink.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

The Hanna nitrate actually turns pink to reddish as the number goes up. If it is clear then it's very low or nothing. The color change is much more noticeable that the light blue in the phos tester. Even .5 nitrates shows a little pink.

Thanks. Definitely low then. Still not sure I understand the device. I’m going to stop trying to get the 7 min timer to show up and just time 7 minutes. It kept turning off or resetting the procedure. lol

 

[Pistondog]

Phyto and Skimming: Advice Needed

Phyto and pods are still tracking to arrive today. I plan to autodose the phyto and the setup is ready. I’ll detail that later.

The immediate question is how skimming interacts with phyto addition. I understand some may get skimmed out and it is often recommended to stop skimming for a time when you add it. In the future I am planning to do something along those lines.

In my current situation, with no fish or large inverts, and not even the premium rock for 3 weeks, I’m thinking of turning off the skimmer entirely during that time. I’m a big fan of skimmers for aeration and organic export, and the Tunze is working well as I have described in earlier posts.

Drawback will be more accumulation of organics (mostly from the refugium algae) and yellowing of the water. Benefit will be that the phyto stays in the water until something consumes it, instead of skimming it out again.

Thoughts?

Little late here.
I used to run 2 or 3 phyto cultures a week.
When mature id add them to a 10 gallon bin with some fresh saltwater, maybe a little f2. The bin was used for 1% awcs. The bin was agitated and lit 6 hours a day, trying to keep viable. The phyto in the bin was always bright green, and even if some died, it went into the dt.
Skimmer ran 24/7, and quickly built up phyto sludge, but it seemed a small fraction of what was going in the tank.

 

[bradreef]

Thanks. Definitely low then. Still not sure I understand the device. I’m going to stop trying to get the 7 min timer to show up and just time 7 minutes. It kept turning off or resetting the procedure. lol

The key is cleaning well after use and ensuring the outside is clear imo. But press once for 1. Insert water only vile. Press once to the 2. Then pull out and add the mix, tumble it for 20-40 seconds to mix. Dry the outside really well. Insert vile back in and hold the button for 4 seconds until the 7 min clock starts.