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Darn it. Sorry to hear that. We were all hoping that he’d make it. :( It seems this coronavirus is also making our fish more susceptible to all sorts of stuff....
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Darn it. Sorry to hear that. We were all hoping that he’d make it. :( It seems this coronavirus is also making our fish more susceptible to all sorts of stuff....
I feel your pain for sure! I am following this for sure. I know in my tank I have 6 leopard Wrasses, China Wrasse, Earmuff Wrasse, Melenarous, and a yellow Wrasse. Also a purple tang and foxface. No issues with anyone else. My plan at the moment is keep a eye on the other fish. I am so missing my Juvi Emporer and potters Angel. I wonder if raising a Juvi Emporer to a full adult is tougher than people think? Maybe if things go ok I might try a small adult.....In addition to grieving for my Emperor, I'm at the point now where I don't want to put anything else in my DT if there is some parasitic infestation living in there. And at the moment I only have two fish in my DT, my 6-banded angel, and a yellow tang. I also have a lot of coral and inverts. Any suggestions on how to 'disinfect' my DT while keeping my two remaining fish safe, please let me know.
My Emperor Angel saga has continued. Here is my new Emperor. He has been in quarantine for about a week now, along with a couple of Ocellaris clowns. They are currently in 2ppm Copper and Metro, and are doing well so far. I am being very cautious with him, and all my fish going forward. I've learned my lesson.
My 6-Banded Angel has been doing well, has shown no further signs of disease over the past month, and has been thriving. Here he is at feeding time.
They will be joined around mid-October if all goes well and per schedule...
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I have a Liberty HOB filter, just using the filter pads right now, then when it comes time to remove the meds, was planning on adding the carbon cartridges as well. What do you think? I also have tons of the bio filter media in my DT sump, and was thinking of using that to help remove the meds, then just discarding them. Not sure how well that will work though.Looks good, just a couple of observations: Use care with the carbon, use premium pellets or better yet, rely on water changes to drop your med levels- to avoid HLLE in the angel, since they are prone to it. Also, try a diagnostic FW dip to screen for Neobenedenia flukes before moving it to your DT.
Jay
Okay thanks Jay, I think you're right. I'll go for larger water changes and see how it goes. Appreciate the advice!The amount of carbon in those cartridges is pretty limited. I always prefer to remove meds through water changes. Prazi degrades in a matter of days, not sure about metronidazole.
Jay
On the copper treatment phase, I was thinking of raising copper by 0.05 ppm per day, taking 20 days to get to 2.0 ppm. I think that should be slow enough for Anthias. Any thoughts @Jay Hemdal ?I'm planning to follow the same QT procedure I outlined above for 3 bimac anthias. Do you see any problem with that? I read to go slower on the copper power and will do that. Any other thoughts?
Wow - 0.05 mg/l per DAY? What copper product do you plan on using and what testing method? Here is the problem - you'll be below therapeutic copper levels for 18 days, and that is plenty of time for any protozoans the fish arrived with to take over and kill them.On the copper treatment phase, I was thinking of raising copper by 0.05 ppm per day, taking 20 days to get to 2.0 ppm. I think that should be slow enough for Anthias. Any thoughts @Jay Hemdal ?
Just trying to be careful, as I’ve heard over and over to go slow with copper on Anthias. I’m using copper power. Never read anything definitive on actually how slow to go, but it sounds like my approach is too conservative. Just looking to balance the risk with the therapeutic.Wow - 0.05 mg/l per DAY? What copper product do you plan on using and what testing method? Here is the problem - you'll be below therapeutic copper levels for 18 days, and that is plenty of time for any protozoans the fish arrived with to take over and kill them.
Ramping up copper over a couple of days was a technique we used 30 years ago when using copper sulfate/citric acid. It seemed to help with a few issues we saw with toxicity in Centropyge angelfish. Somewhere along the line it became applied to organically bound copper products. Then, the ramping up time got extended further and further.
I dose 100% of my bound copper at one time. Think about all the importers and dealers that acclimate fish right into full copper.
I will advise home aquarists to add copper in two doses, 12 hours apart, simply to ensure they are testing correctly, and not making some huge error with their tank volume (like thinking a ten gallon tank actually holds ten gallons). Splitting it into two additions eases them into the proper dosage.
If you are dead set on taking that long to raise your copper, I would urge you to consider TTM instead.
Jay
Oh yes, I have all the respect in the world for @Jay Hemdal , as well as others here who have cautioned going too fast with copper on anthias, like @Humblefish and @HotRocks . Just wondering how slow is slow enough without risking onset of disease.@Jay Hemdal is the expert you and I will never be. I go with what he says, and try my best not to contradict him in any of my amateur posts. (Lol!)
Three days is the most commonly used ramp up time, and that coincides with the 72 hours I give new fish to settle in, so that would be a good target.Just trying to be careful, as I’ve heard over and over to go slow with copper on Anthias. I’m using copper power. Never read anything definitive on actually how slow to go, but it sounds like my approach is too conservative. Just looking to balance the risk with the therapeutic.