The Angry Reef Product Consumer

  • Thread starter Thread starter SlackTide
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You suspected a short in your equipment so you moved it to a non GFCI protected plug and stuck your hand in the water. WOW talk about Darwin award.
 
actually I suspected a worn gfi, I did check the tanks but never even thought about the mixing pail, if it was a "real" serious leak it would blow the circuit breaker, circuit breakers are the antidarwin devise lol
 
I love this thread! HA!
 
lol, nobodies getting it tho, its not just a rant, its a DEMAND! I insist we get better made equipment, protest NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
^^^^^ agreed!!!!!!!!!! i know refractometers are mostly garbage, heaters, and now i unvieled a whole new can of worms with the hanna po4 meter...:(
 
^^^^^ agreed!!!!!!!!!! i know refractometers are mostly garbage, heaters, and now i unvieled a whole new can of worms with the hanna po4 meter...:(

if you want to make easy money, make anything for the "pets" industry
 
if it was a "real" serious leak it would blow the circuit breaker, circuit breakers are the antidarwin devise lol


Circuit breakers are not there to save you from electrocution, they are there to prevent fires. You can get fried to a crisp long before you reach the 15 amps that most household breakers trip at. GFCI breakers, on the other hand, are meant to protect you from becoming a smoldering mass.
 
Circuit breakers are not there to save you from electrocution, they are there to prevent fires. You can get fried to a crisp long before you reach the 15 amps that most household breakers trip at. GFCI breakers, on the other hand, are meant to protect you from becoming a smoldering mass.

Ok, Ive been given the Darwin award and now a lesson in electrocution lol, awesome! so here's the thing, how many people run around with a meter to try and check for a problem? assuming there was one to begin with, gfi goes out, reset, goes again, so Im supposed to remove and bench check every electrical component? Of coarse you plug into a new circuit what else can you do?? Now if you'd be so kind, please outline your procedure for finding the fault and don't tell me to use the force, mine's turned off. :wink:
 
I think you had enough people telling you what you did is not good, and you learned the lesson (baptizm by electricussion) when CGIF trip there is some thing wrong.
 
My biggest rant is manufactures that talk up their product then won't stand behind their hype where is the BBB in all of this "aquaticlife"" products stay away they have a real nice sounding warrantee they don't back it
Oh by the way what troylee said for those of us who have been smoosed by Hanna let's start there anybody who Purchased one of these things let's start an angry mob with torches and pitchforks and demand some answers and a little compensation and answers!
 
Ok, Ive been given the Darwin award and now a lesson in electrocution lol, awesome! so here's the thing, how many people run around with a meter to try and check for a problem? assuming there was one to begin with, gfi goes out, reset, goes again, so Im supposed to remove and bench check every electrical component? Of coarse you plug into a new circuit what else can you do?? Now if you'd be so kind, please outline your procedure for finding the fault and don't tell me to use the force, mine's turned off. :wink:

At one of the LFS's I worked at back in the day, only option for testing which powerhead/electrical piece was leaking juice was the good ol finger test. A game of Rock/paper/scissors determines who gets to be the tester that day, the begins the plugging and unplugging of the 30+ piece octopuss of electrical cords into powerbars to find the faulty piece. It sucked :( But seriously, getting toasted with 110V has to take a whole lot of effort. (and isn't electrocution the completing of a circuit via your body, not nessecarily unto death? If not what's getting zapped technically termed as?)


Back on original post though....I'm getting very fed up with marineland stealth's. The one in my 20L chalice/flatworm tank is set at 80, green (not heating) light. I wake up this morning, light's green, tanks at 72 degrees. I twist the dial to 82, light switches to red (heating), come home 8 hours later, lights back to green and tanks at 75 degrees. I'm going back to a reliable heater even if I have to deal with unplugging it before any water change or big water addition and buying a ebo-jager. Only one country in the EU makes the high quality fish-keeping stuff, and it's certainly not the Italians.
 
My biggest rant is manufactures that talk up their product then won't stand behind their hype where is the BBB in all of this "aquaticlife"" products stay away they have a real nice sounding warrantee they don't back it
Oh by the way what troylee said for those of us who have been smoosed by Hanna let's start there anybody who Purchased one of these things let's start an angry mob with torches and pitchforks and demand some answers and a little compensation and answers!

BBB isn't some federal watchdog group-it's essentially a legalized mafia setup. By subscribing to their ranking system and abiding by it (purchasing their protection), you get a good reputation by which you earn more money (theoretically.) Now if you don't meet the standards (people complain) you get penalized and lose money (theoretically.)
The two main pieces though are that you have to complain to BBB about a company/business, and secondly, the consumer must care about the BBB ranking when purchasing from them.
 
The GFCI is not working properly and is falsely tripping.
GFCI breakers are designed to cut the power in the blink of an eye if electrical fluctuations of as little as .005 amperes are detected. Because the GFCI is so sensitive, it is most effective when wired to protect a single location. The more outlets any one GFCI protects, the more susceptible it is to phantom tripping – shutting off power because of tiny, but normal fluctuations in current flow.

Some GFCI’s are more sensitive that others.
It may be that the GFCI is too sensitive. It is normal for continuous running motors, such as pumps, to sometimes have small electrical fluctuations. Sensitive GFCI’s may detect this and falsely trip. You may want to have the electrician try a new GFCI or a different brand of GFCI if this problem persists.
 
My biggest rant is manufactures that talk up their product then won't stand behind their hype where is the BBB in all of this "aquaticlife"" products stay away they have a real nice sounding warrantee they don't back it
Oh by the way what troylee said for those of us who have been smoosed by Hanna let's start there anybody who Purchased one of these things let's start an angry mob with torches and pitchforks and demand some answers and a little compensation and answers!

Its not even the warranty, my store just hands me a new on(same as the last one) so what! we just playin spin the bottle now
 
At one of the LFS's I worked at back in the day, only option for testing which powerhead/electrical piece was leaking juice was the good ol finger test. A game of Rock/paper/scissors determines who gets to be the tester that day, the begins the plugging and unplugging of the 30+ piece octopuss of electrical cords into powerbars to find the faulty piece. It sucked :( But seriously, getting toasted with 110V has to take a whole lot of effort. (and isn't electrocution the completing of a circuit via your body, not nessecarily unto death? If not what's getting zapped technically termed as?)


Back on original post though....I'm getting very fed up with marineland stealth's. The one in my 20L chalice/flatworm tank is set at 80, green (not heating) light. I wake up this morning, light's green, tanks at 72 degrees. I twist the dial to 82, light switches to red (heating), come home 8 hours later, lights back to green and tanks at 75 degrees. I'm going back to a reliable heater even if I have to deal with unplugging it before any water change or big water addition and buying a ebo-jager. Only one country in the EU makes the high quality fish-keeping stuff, and it's certainly not the Italians.

a little nano with 3 plugs is easy, a bigger tank usually has more than 1 circuit from the panel, in a house its almost certain that there are branch circuits added as well, power bars,multi plug add on's etc its a royal mess of wires lol, its no simple task finding a fault and thats why I believe all our equipment should have built in sensors, seriously it couldn't be more than .15 cents worth of electronics to a manufacturer
 
BBB isn't some federal watchdog group-it's essentially a legalized mafia setup. By subscribing to their ranking system and abiding by it (purchasing their protection), you get a good reputation by which you earn more money (theoretically.) Now if you don't meet the standards (people complain) you get penalized and lose money (theoretically.)
The two main pieces though are that you have to complain to BBB about a company/business, and secondly, the consumer must care about the BBB ranking when purchasing from them.

BBB is a business making money on peoples fear. Underwriters laboratory is probably who needs approaching, if you don't have that UL stamp on something and the house burns down, don't expect your insurance to pay up
 

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