ICH in reef tank

RedFrog211

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I set up a 20 gallon reef about a month and a half ago. Yesterday I noticed a few spots of ich on my ocellaris. I have 1 ocellaris, 1 coral banded, and some softies and LPS. Should I create a QT tank for the fish and let the main go fallow, try dosing a “reef safe” ICH treatment into the main, or feed very nutritious food, boosting immunity, and hope the ICH goes away? My water parameters are: ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0-5ppm, SG 1.025, pH 8.2. The only foreseeable potential flaw is my temp, which I think is low 70’s. I’m getting a heater today. Any advice is appreciated!
 

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I’ts a real pain (and discouraging) to go fallow, but it works. And since your tank is small, meaning all your fish will likely be small, you could just get 3 small fishbowls and and air stone and use the Tank Transfer Method (TTM) to rid your clown of Ich, and keep others ‘safe’ in the future. Search TTM on R2R. Best wishes.
 

Jay Hemdal

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Assuming it is ich, and the fish has more than say 5 to 10 spots on it, I think you will need to set up a QT and treat with copper. In well established tanks ich can often be managed, but in newer tanks it often gets out of control . Reef safe meds do not work for acute infections, and many of them hide their ingredients....I won’t add anything to my tanks if I don’t know what it is.
Jay
 

AC1211

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I set up a 20 gallon reef about a month and a half ago. Yesterday I noticed a few spots of ich on my ocellaris. I have 1 ocellaris, 1 coral banded, and some softies and LPS. Should I create a QT tank for the fish and let the main go fallow, try dosing a “reef safe” ICH treatment into the main, or feed very nutritious food, boosting immunity, and hope the ICH goes away? My water parameters are: ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0-5ppm, SG 1.025, pH 8.2. The only foreseeable potential flaw is my temp, which I think is low 70’s. I’m getting a heater today. Any advice is appreciated!
My honest thought is to trade in your only fish and just keep the inverts and coral for a few months then try fish again. It is just one clown correct?
 

artieg1

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I would just add that it is pointless to go through the process of QT-ing and copper-ing this fish, and going fallow, if in the future you are going to add additional fish without QT-ing. The only reason to go through the incredible hassle of the fallow period is if you are going to make sure every future fish addition occurs only after you eradicate ich with certainty (TTM, copper or CP). This is not a "one fish" question. This is a husbandry question for how you will manage your tank(s) forever.
 
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RedFrog211

RedFrog211

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I would just add that it is pointless to go through the process of QT-ing and copper-ing this fish, and going fallow, if in the future you are going to add additional fish without QT-ing. The only reason to go through the incredible hassle of the fallow period is if you are going to make sure every future fish addition occurs only after you eradicate ich with certainty (TTM, copper or CP). This is not a "one fish" question. This is a husbandry question for how you will manage your tank(s) forever.
If I set up a QT to treat this clown, I’ll keep it functioning and QT any other fish I add. I was only planning on having a pair of clowns and a blenny or dragonet
 

Paulie069

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If I set up a QT to treat this clown, I’ll keep it functioning and QT any other fish I add. I was only planning on having a pair of clowns and a blenny or dragonet
I keep my tank at 73 degrees all summer long and 71-72 in winter,, I find with low temperature I have much less algae problems I’m a fan of cooler temperature, but then again I rarely follow the rules of reefing, I’m a let Mother Nature take care of it type person/ plus I use 100% NSW
This is just my own preference don’t quote me listen to the more experience reefers on this awesome website
 

Paulie069

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I keep my tank at 73 degrees all summer long and 71-72 in winter,, I find with low temperature I have much less algae problems I’m a fan of cooler temperature, but then again I rarely follow the rules of reefing, I’m a let Mother Nature take care of it type person/ plus I use 100% NSW
This is just my own preference don’t quote me listen to the more experience reefers on this awesome website

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RedFrog211

RedFrog211

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Nice little seahorse hiding at the bottom! Love it :) also yeah, with how new my tank is, I’m having a ton of algae blooms. Finally got past the diatom phase and now green algae/ hair algae is taking hold. Figured it could be worse though, for instance, the ich
 

JumboShrimp

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Not something a new hobbyist can or even should do right away, but it never hurts to have a few extra small tanks ready to go on short notice— isolation, hospitalization, aggression, emergencies of all sorts.
 
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RedFrog211

RedFrog211

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Not something a new hobbyist can or even should do right away, but it never hurts to have a few extra small tanks ready to go on short notice— isolation, hospitalization, aggression, emergencies of all sorts.
I’ve had reef tanks before, but while I was at work the power went out and killed everything. Gave up for a couple years and finally decided to get back into it. I‘ve missed it too much. But yeah, I don’t have room for that many set ups right now, haha. I’ll probably do a 5-10g QT tank. As much as I don’t want to wait for the main to go fallow, it’s probably the best option.
 

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I have a thread on this issue and what i am doing. Day 35 for me managing it in my reef. Might be helpful. Might not. Most of what everybody above says is correct. Other than pulling fish and going fallow, options aren't great.
 

vetteguy53081

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My honest thought is to trade in your only fish and just keep the inverts and coral for a few months then try fish again. It is just one clown correct?
Trade in a fish with ich ??
 

AC1211

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Trade in a fish with ich ??
My Lfs would take it and quarantine it alone. I don't know about others but usually if its your only fish just give it to them and if you want sometimes when you come back after the fish is healed they may give the fish right back. Only a $5 qt charge at my lfs. Well he is a wholesaler and he only does this upon request but it cannot hurt to ask an lfs for help in this scenario.
 

Paulie069

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Nice little seahorse hiding at the bottom! Love it :) also yeah, with how new my tank is, I’m having a ton of algae blooms. Finally got past the diatom phase and now green algae/ hair algae is taking hold. Figured it could be worse though, for instance, the ich
The BEST piece of equipment I’ve ever got for my tank is a UV light I run mine 24-7
 

TheOldSalt

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Feed your fish a garlic product and add an ultraviolet sterilizer.
That's the easiest solution. It's not the best solution, but the easiest.
It works, but not very quickly.
The garlic makes the ick drop off of the fish, and the UV kills it. In the meantime, the other critters and bacteria in the tank aren't harmed. The UV might also solve some other problems.
 

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