Ink Bird ITC 306A issues

[workhz]

I could be wrong here but I don't think it works that way. Sure the pumps produce heat but most of the energy they use is converted into mechanical energy not heat energy. They are taking in a certain amount of energy and if it is all converted to heat there wouldn't be any water movement. Also, if it were just because of the heat produced by the pumps functioning normally then the OP's temperatures would've always been higher than they wanted.

Conservation of energy anyone? With a lid closing off a tank, a heater and submersible pump will generate the same amount of heat for the wattage. Kinda has to.

One of the reasons i switched to DC pumps and LED. Previous tanks were always a fight to keep temps down. I’d rather fight to keep them up.

 

[Kingston]

You are correct, however, the average efficiency of a permanent magnet motor is roughly 80%. So at least 20% of the total energy consumed is directly lost as heat due to resistance. There's also friction of the mechanical components in motion etc. etc. Point is, there's a lot of power being consumed and a major portion of that is being lost as heat directly into the water column. The UV is especially responsible for a large heat source.

Example would be one of my tanks is a 90-gal running a 36w UV. Ambient room temperature never exceeds 75F. All pumps are external except for one 40w first-stage return. The heaters for that tank never run and the tank struggles to stay below 79F. But shut down the UV and within 24-hours the heaters are cycling.

You are correct, however, the average efficiency of a permanent magnet motor is roughly 80%. So at least 20% of the total energy consumed is directly lost as heat due to resistance. There's also friction of the mechanical components in motion etc. etc. Point is, there's a lot of power being consumed and a major portion of that is being lost as heat directly into the water column. The UV is especially responsible for a large heat source.

Example would be one of my tanks is a 90-gal running a 36w UV. Ambient room temperature never exceeds 75F. All pumps are external except for one 40w first-stage return. The heaters for that tank never run and the tank struggles to stay below 79F. But shut down the UV and within 24-hours the heaters are cycling.

Interesting....

 

[workhz]

It’s not just the friction of mechanical components. It’s the friction of the water against itself or glass or rocks or other molecules. It all turns to heat.

 

[Gtinnel]

Conservation of energy anyone? With a lid closing off a tank, a heater and submersible pump will generate the same amount of heat for the wattage. Kinda has to.

One of the reasons i switched to DC pumps and LED. Previous tanks were always a fight to keep temps down. I’d rather fight to keep them up.

In theory yes I suppose that the friction between molecules do produce heat but in a realistic setting for an aquarium we are not usually dealing with a lid that completely closes the system. Even if we were it is definitely not a thermally isolated system.
With water pumps there is also potentially a cooling effect from extra surface movement leading to evaporative cooling, although I'm not sure how that would be effected by having a tight fitting lid.
I live near a river that is know for its white water rapids, and even though that water is very fast moving and crashing against rocks it is surprisingly cold.
Also, as much as I like debating scientific theory, at least to the best of my under educated ability, none of this is helpful to the OP.

 

[workhz]

What’s the goal here? The equipment is heating the tank to 79. If you don’t like 79 then you’ll need more evap. Or if you want more fluctuation then drop the heaters temps and the tank might get cooler at night and not ramp up quick enough to touch 79. Drop the heater setting a degree.

Kinda depends on the end goal.

 

[Kingston]

What’s the goal here? The equipment is heating the tank to 79. If you don’t like 79 then you’ll need more evap. Or if you want more fluctuation then drop the heaters temps and the tank might get cooler at night and not ramp up quick enough to touch 79. Drop the heater setting a degree.

Kinda depends on the end goal.

Not sure what you mean. The heater is basically not doing any heating at the moment. In fact heater is off since 7pm yesterday. Initial issue was why the controller was allowing tank temp to go past upper set limit. After deductions and brainstorming by a few experienced reefers and "scientist", we have come to the conclusion that the 400g is adequately being heated by other equipment other than the heater and the controller may not be malfunctioning as I thought. Now this morning water temp is at 78.1F. I still have heaters off and monitoring water temp. if the equipment can maintain, water temp between 78-79F, i guess I will take it.
Only thing is I keep asking what changed, bcos tank temp had been 77.4-77.7F prior to this. So does it mean in a few months we move to 80F? How can I and I prevent this is the goal here...

 

[workhz]

Has it been more humid in the house or outside to slow evap down? Are you losing the same amount of water or less?

 

[Kingston]

Has it been more humid in the house or outside to slow evap down? Are you losing the same amount of water or less?

It hasn't been more humid. I control the humidity with a dehumidifier. Evap loss hss been a bit more.

 

[ShadowMan]

What I've ended up doing with mine, and it's definitely one way to tell if the Inkbird is actually doing what it's meant to, is I changed one of my heaters to an AquaEl Ultra Heater as it's got a visual temperature gauge on the actual heater.

This has at least given my comfort in knowing the my water temp is what the probes say it it and as it has an additional top temp cut-off, I have a comfortable fail safe running along side my Inkbird.

 

[Kingston]

So the tank temp is currently at 77.2F still haven't reconnected the heaters. The inkbird has turned on to heating as expected but I not hooking up the heaters just yet. All equipments remain the same. Very interesting but will keep y'all updated.

 

[Maxcmo]

Did you ever find out what happen I am dealing w the same exact issue

 

[Nonya]

Something like this can usually be solved by process of elimination, and not by calculations. My recommendation would be to turn off all unnecessary equipment for a day. Just use heaters and the return pump. Most tanks can do without a skimmer for a few days, and lights for at least a day. It won't take long, but see how quickly the heat drops below 78. Then add the lights. Watch the temp during the time of day you say it tends to heat up. Continue adding equipment one-by-one until you notice an increase. That would identify the culprit.