Yes :-)
I’ll publish the original power guide using relays and outlets in reef-pi website soonish. It needs to be updated with recent (2.0) screenshots and other details (we have learned a lot in last one year). This is important as the adj powerstrip is not available/useful across the world and it does not allow you to customize fine details (normally open/close, Ssd or mechanical relays , current ratings, fuse , gfci etc) , this is also our platform to build upon current monitoring.
At 15X15mm size, I'd be more concerned with someone bumping into the tank and it buckling. The plywood however, if properly affixed will greatly strengthen the structure. According to the link you supplied, they are based in the Netherlands. Will shipping be an issue for cost or time reasons? I saw another build somewhere here about someone using something similar but based in the USA with larger beam sizes available. Let me look back at my history...I want to build this stand with maker beam (or makerbeam xl) for one of my pico tank. I need some help with this .. @Erica-Renee :) or anyone more familiar
- This stand will hold an Imagitarium 3.7G, and its life support system.
- The life support system will include reef-pi controller , 7x4” , an adj powerstrip , bunch of wires , and a large 5g jug for ato reservoir.
- HOB Filter, heatr, return pump, a 12V DC power head, temp,ph, ato sensor and a Kessil A80 light, all will be mounted in the tank
Here is my tentative plan
I want the tank to be 28" (around 711mm), 12" wide 11" depth, with one shelf inside and a door. All the side will be covered with plywood, the door too will be made of plywood. The top shelf, where the stand will be kept will have a thicker plywood.
Some details around makerbeam , these are modular anodized aluminum frames and repeated accessories (screws, nuts, hinges, tslots, corner braces etc ).
My initial questions are
1) Can makerbeam support my tank weight and the ato water (10G overall), if not I have to go with makerbeam xl. I am not able to deduce this from their spec, which is hard for me to understand, its noted here
2) The actual frames are available in 300/600/900 mm sizes. Because I need 28" height, which is around 711mm, I have to either use 900mm frames and cut it to size or use 600mm and do something to adjust the gap. Is that even possible to do easily at home? cut anodized aluminum frames. and i'll also loos the threaded ends at the end of the frame (probably fine)
3) Is plywood the right choice for sides ? I am likely to build a acrylic/plexiglass sheet based side walls also, for makerfaire, to showcase the internal arrangement of the controller, wire management, adj powerstip etc.
once I have the basic plan validated and reviewd, i'll start working on a detailed plan including the bill of materials,
thanks in advance :)
What brand and where did you purchase them? The first 5 I bought worked flawlessly, the second 5, not so good. I only got the second 5 because of the longer cords. Thinking of compiling a list of good and not so good brands/sources.
Can be a number of reasons . Can you share chord length , and resistor value used ? Try 5 v and 10k resistor combination. This can be due to faulty probe as well
That makes more sense, being available from Amazon. BTW, easiest way to cut aluminum extrusion like that is with a compound miter saw with a cheap medium-fine tooth wood blade. It will make clean straight cuts. I've used mine numerous times to cut aluminum parts, screen door frames, plate, tube... It's noisy and messy, wear ear and eye protection!
Are you powering the relay through the pi0 directly?
Enclosure looks great! Is that a 3D router? I noticed in your picture that you haven't got the pi power cable hooked to the microUSB labeled "power in". Maybe using the other port limits the current available?
Btw , I do follow your thread in Houston forum , thanks for documenting it
Didn't think of that at all! Makes sense it could be sagging! Trying one more thing then maybe throwing a polulu 5v reg off a battery so that I can test it independently!
Yes it's plugged into the USB one I was thinking if I need to access it through a computer connected directly I could... but then I realized i do everything over putty anyways so that really isn't useful. I just moved it over to the Power IN one, maybe it'll provide more power. Trying that now... my last attempt for the night.
Haha thanks. I'm actually from the Bay Area, only moved to Houston in April from Milpitas. I'm friends with a few people in BARF... one of the guys even has my fish (which I still need to ship out here... southwest is taking forever to approve my air cargo account).
