reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

Didn't think of that at all! Makes sense it could be sagging! Trying one more thing then maybe throwing a polulu 5v reg off a battery so that I can test it independently!

Yes it's plugged into the USB one I was thinking if I need to access it through a computer connected directly I could... but then I realized i do everything over putty anyways so that really isn't useful. I just moved it over to the Power IN one, maybe it'll provide more power. Trying that now... my last attempt for the night.

It's just a 3-axis cheapo router from China. This is the first actual project I've used it for and made a few mistakes (this is my second project box) but it does a far better job than I could do by hand! Also much quicker and stronger than if I tried to 3D print it. It's severely under powered for anything more than wood or plastic, but it's something new to learn :)

Haha thanks. I'm actually from the Bay Area, only moved to Houston in April from Milpitas. I'm friends with a few people in BARF... one of the guys even has my fish (which I still need to ship out here... southwest is taking forever to approve my air cargo account).
Yes, the 3D router did a fabulous job on the outlet holes! How many watt or amp power supply are you using for the pi? Last picture looks like it's plugged into a cellphone charger. If moving it to the power in doesn't work, can you measure the voltage on the 5v pins with it running and switching outlets?
 
Yes, the 3D router did a fabulous job on the outlet holes! How many watt or amp power supply are you using for the pi? Last picture looks like it's plugged into a cellphone charger. If moving it to the power in doesn't work, can you measure the voltage on the 5v pins with it running and switching outlets?
Originally it was a samsung (knockoff pretty sure) 1.5a one. I tried a 2amp "HP" one and still had issues. Just tried a 1.8a Blackberry one (which has been probably the best one I've had to date) and it also has failed it appears.

I was googling if there was a way to monitor the 5v input to the Raspberry Pi Zero W and it appears there isn't.

SO I was going to go to bed, but curiosity got the better of me. So I spent the bit of time messing with it. I thought I finally fixed it (neutral line wasn't tightened all the way to the distribution block) but I didn't. It was working 100% proper on the bench in the garage (closed up and everything), but as soon as it went back into the house it stopped working. I am using different pumps inside the house and the probes are fully submerged. Maybe there's something going on with a rogue current hitting the probes? I don't know... tomorrow I'll try again.

I was monitoring the voltage while doing the switches while in the garage with my Fluke and I couldn't detect a drop at all. It could be too quick for the Fluke to recognize but I doubt it as it didn't drop below 5.06v ever.
 
Originally it was a samsung (knockoff pretty sure) 1.5a one. I tried a 2amp "HP" one and still had issues. Just tried a 1.8a Blackberry one (which has been probably the best one I've had to date) and it also has failed it appears.

I was googling if there was a way to monitor the 5v input to the Raspberry Pi Zero W and it appears there isn't.

SO I was going to go to bed, but curiosity got the better of me. So I spent the bit of time messing with it. I thought I finally fixed it (neutral line wasn't tightened all the way to the distribution block) but I didn't. It was working 100% proper on the bench in the garage (closed up and everything), but as soon as it went back into the house it stopped working. I am using different pumps inside the house and the probes are fully submerged. Maybe there's something going on with a rogue current hitting the probes? I don't know... tomorrow I'll try again.

I was monitoring the voltage while doing the switches while in the garage with my Fluke and I couldn't detect a drop at all. It could be too quick for the Fluke to recognize but I doubt it as it didn't drop below 5.06v ever.
Sounds like the voltage is fine, put the Fluke in "min" mode and it should register anything lower at a faster sample rate than the meter will display. I'm curious if you are getting electrical interference with the pi that close to AC input to the case and causing logic errors? Higher amperage pumps inside creating more noise perhaps. Could you unscrew and move the pi out from under the AC wiring and test?
 
That makes more sense, being available from Amazon. BTW, easiest way to cut aluminum extrusion like that is with a compound miter saw with a cheap medium-fine tooth wood blade. It will make clean straight cuts. I've used mine numerous times to cut aluminum parts, screen door frames, plate, tube... It's noisy and messy, wear ear and eye protection!

I use a fine tooth aluminum saw, but yeah super fast on a miter saw, even a cheap one. And yes, tiny flecks of aluminum get everywhere!
 
Sounds like the voltage is fine, put the Fluke in "min" mode and it should register anything lower at a faster sample rate than the meter will display. I'm curious if you are getting electrical interference with the pi that close to AC input to the case and causing logic errors? Higher amperage pumps inside creating more noise perhaps. Could you unscrew and move the pi out from under the AC wiring and test?

This would be my guess as well. Since 1wire is just a single ended bus (and an open drain one at that), a long wire lead like that will happily make an antenna for anything to creep on to.
 
2) The actual frames are available in 300/600/900 mm sizes. Because I need 28" height, which is around 711mm, I have to either use 900mm frames and cut it to size or use 600mm and do something to adjust the gap. Is that even possible to do easily at home? cut anodized aluminum frames. and i'll also loos the threaded ends at the end of the frame (probably fine)
@Ranjib : have you seen this https://www.makerbeam.com/service/ (1.1 Do you offer custom cut lengths?)
There is German company who makes custom sizes, checked their website but you have to ask about shipping costs outside of Europe, most likely they will need to know exact size and quantities for size & weight. The makerbeam also refers to Fablab's, maybe that's an option in your area.
 
@Ranjib : have you seen this https://www.makerbeam.com/service/ (1.1 Do you offer custom cut lengths?)
There is German company who makes custom sizes, checked their website but you have to ask about shipping costs outside of Europe, most likely they will need to know exact size and quantities for size & weight. The makerbeam also refers to Fablab's, maybe that's an option in your area.
I am thinking of this, all with precut lengths
4405A4D9-B46B-4806-AAD9-A6170683522F.png
 
I am thinking of this, all with precut lengths
4405A4D9-B46B-4806-AAD9-A6170683522F.png
Any reason not to use standard 2020 alu profiles? Looking at the Makerbeam available brackets I think you will have some limitations. You will have to place them on the outside of the alu profiles as on the 'inside' there will be another alu profile, so the brackets will get into 'conflict' with any housing coverage. For 2020 there are internal 90 degree options, so for a T bracket you can use 1 or 2 on both sides.
41gRnC9jk4L.jpg

Personally I would also feel more comfortable with 20x20mm at 710mm height plus aquarium on top of it. Also on Thingiverse there are many add-on's for 2020 alu profiles to be found (such as endcaps, cable holders, etc.). You may also have to think about height adjustable feet. Personally I'm using alu profiles for photography as it's easy to modify/adjust to any requirements :D
 
So I didn't use a regular stereo plug, I used the IP68 4-wire connectors (had them laying around, and cut one wire so it was only using three). The connections are solid. I can rub them around and move them a lot and nothing happens. Plus when one sensor goes, both go.

I'm still trying to figure it out, but it does seem like it's related to a load. If there is a load on the outlet when I toggle quickly it seems to more often stop working versus if there is no load. I'm still testing...

Here's a couple pictures of the build: https://photos.app.goo.gl/z82jdRuKqbYVRjjc8 (excuse my "dirty" wiring)

The temperature sensors I bought were these off amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H3P8LRT/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hey where did you get your enclosure?
 
Any reason not to use standard 2020 alu profiles? Looking at the Makerbeam available brackets I think you will have some limitations. You will have to place them on the outside of the alu profiles as on the 'inside' there will be another alu profile, so the brackets will get into 'conflict' with any housing coverage. For 2020 there are internal 90 degree options, so for a T bracket you can use 1 or 2 on both sides.
41gRnC9jk4L.jpg

Personally I would also feel more comfortable with 20x20mm at 710mm height plus aquarium on top of it. Also on Thingiverse there are many add-on's for 2020 alu profiles to be found (such as endcaps, cable holders, etc.). You may also have to think about height adjustable feet. Personally I'm using alu profiles for photography as it's easy to modify/adjust to any requirements :D
Thanks for the inputs. Red Sea reefer 170 nano, is around 32”, I think 750mm (30.5”) should be ok.
( I would have preferred 710 mm though ). Are you concerned about strength ? I was able to conceptualize most of the tank with corner , t and right angle brackets . The 2020 alum arrangement you shared can be done with corner bracket in makerbeam. I found the price also reasonable (120$ overall, with frames , brackets, nuts and bolts ). Dimension wise , 2020 seems a bulkier version of makerbeam. I don’t know much about it, let me read through,
 
Thanks for the inputs. Red Sea reefer 170 nano, is around 32”, I think 750mm (30.5”) should be ok.
( I would have preferred 710 mm though ). Are you concerned about strength ? I was able to conceptualize most of the tank with corner , t and right angle brackets . The 2020 alum arrangement you shared can be done with corner bracket in makerbeam. I found the price also reasonable (120$ overall, with frames , brackets, nuts and bolts ). Dimension wise , 2020 seems a bulkier version of makerbeam. I don’t know much about it, let me read through,
I may misunderstand, but I can't image you can place the makerbeam brackets on the 'inside' of the enclosure. Quick picture:
View attachment 912343
upload_2018-12-9_10-53-57.png

I'm less concerned about strength but more about wobbling, especially with a filled aquarium on top of it. Red Sea reefer nano is claimed to be 180kg/400lb in total. I have no experience with this but would not feel comfortable with 1515 alu and brackets (I mainly use 3030 and that's stable but have never put such weight on it).
What definitely would help is to have wooden plates connected to the alu profiles, but that's why I think there is a conflict with the brackets.
 
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Sounds like the voltage is fine, put the Fluke in "min" mode and it should register anything lower at a faster sample rate than the meter will display. I'm curious if you are getting electrical interference with the pi that close to AC input to the case and causing logic errors? Higher amperage pumps inside creating more noise perhaps. Could you unscrew and move the pi out from under the AC wiring and test?

This would be my guess as well. Since 1wire is just a single ended bus (and an open drain one at that), a long wire lead like that will happily make an antenna for anything to creep on to.

Will do the fluke again today if I run into issues. I also was thinking about the electronic noise created by the pumps especially considering it seems to work fine without a load so once AC is applied with a load there seems to be issues.

Just taking it slow and methodical today.
 

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