Stand question

[Duke4Life]

Came across a bunch of really nice 2 X 6's clearing out my storage area. Was thinking of building an open stand using for my 125g.

Any thoughts, suggestions, or cons?

 

[cromag27]

Only if you can plane and jointer them. honestly, 2xs are unnecessary and just take up real estate inside the stand. I use 3/4" plywood only for 99% of my builds.

 

[Duke4Life]

Why would you plane? Only reason this crossed my mind is because either I figure a way 2 use the lumber or its given away.

 

[cromag27]

Planing and jointing would make them even and pretty, just in case they are flat or consistent.

Why would you plane? Only reason this crossed my mind is because either I figure a way 2 use the lumber or its given away.

 

[ThePapa]

Cons, old lumber is usually warped and crooked making it hard to work with at best, 2 X lumber takes up an inordinate amount of space in your cabinet leaving little room for your pumps and sumps or to maintain it, using 2 X material your stand will be so heavy it will take special equipment to move it unless you build it in place and never plan to make any changes, your 2 X material may be cheep from an initial cost point of view but it will cost you plenty trying to make it work for you. Pros, you can trade it for some good 3/4" ply and move on with your project. A well engineered stand does not weigh a ton, will be strong and spacious.

 

[jsker]

Time to debate. Why not to use ply, most grades of ply used now have infearour glue and structure. Once a little moisture is introduced the ply starts to deteriorate. Yes 8/4 stock is bulky, but is more practical then big box store play, even cabinet distrubitor ply. It is all the China garbage. Now if @Duke4Life has access to a planer and a jointer, then why not build out of 8/4 stock? Just take it down to 6/4 or a true 4/4 stock?

I actually prefer to work with old stock then new, for the reason the moister content is more consistent then fresh kiln dryer lumber that tends to be so dry that upon obsorbtion of moister the wood moves between 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch in bow or cupping or crowning.

Now let's talk about moving the stand. One really does not want to move a stand with a tank full of water, so why even bring it up? Why not add nylon caster? use majic slides if the stand is going to be moved? My stand is made of 4/4 milled down to 3/4. The stand weighs ruffly 150 plus the granite top that would be 250. Then with 72 gallons of water when full at 8 lbs per pound per gallon, that is additional 576 + 250 = 826 lbs and can be move on 6 x .05 cent nylon casters. I have moved the full tank and stand without issue on a hardwood floor several times.

So in conclusion if properly planed with old school jointery using mortise and tenons or over lapping joints an open stand can be created out of old 8/4 stock with the proper tooling.

What type of lumber is it? Pine, yellow pine? If yellow pine and depending on the age, the yellow pine will almost the harder the white oak. If pine I would just check to make sure there is no cracking in the wood:)

 

[Duke4Life]

Time to debate. Why not to use ply, most grades of ply used now have infearour glue and structure. Once a little moisture is introduced the ply starts to deteriorate. Yes 8/4 stock is bulky, but is more practical then big box store play, even cabinet distrubitor ply. It is all the China garbage. Now if @Duke4Life has access to a planer and a jointer, then why not build out of 8/4 stock? Just take it down to 6/4 or a true 4/4 stock?

I actually prefer to work with old stock then new, for the reason the moister content is more consistent then fresh kiln dryer lumber that tends to be so dry that upon obsorbtion of moister the wood moves between 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch in bow or cupping or crowning.

Now let's talk about moving the stand. One really does not want to move a stand with a tank full of water, so why even bring it up? Why not add nylon caster? use majic slides if the stand is going to be moved? My stand is made of 4/4 mill down to 3/4. The stand weighs ruffly 150 plus the granite top that would be 250. Then with 72 gallons of water when full at 8 lbs per pound per gallon, that is additional 576 + 250 = 826 lbs and can be move on 6 x .05 cent nylon casters. I have moved the full tank and stand without issue on a hardwood floor several times.

So in conclusion if properly planed with old school jointery using mortise and tenons or over lapping joints an open stand can be created out of old 8/4 stock with the proper tooling.

What type of lumber is it? Pine, yellow pine? If yellow pine and depending on the age, the yellow pine will almost the harder the white oak. If pine I would just check to make sure there is no cracking in the wood:)

Yellow pine, it's some good quality as as I was going 2 use it 2 reinforce an old floor that was going 2 need them, then plans changed.

 

[Duke4Life]

I'll see if 1 of my buddies need them and actually take the time to design my dream stand for this tank.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Time to debate. Why not to use ply, most grades of ply used now have infearour glue and structure. Once a little moisture is introduced the ply starts to deteriorate. Yes 8/4 stock is bulky, but is more practical then big box store play, even cabinet distrubitor ply. It is all the China garbage. Now if @Duke4Life has access to a planer and a jointer, then why not build out of 8/4 stock? Just take it down to 6/4 or a true 4/4 stock?

I actually prefer to work with old stock then new, for the reason the moister content is more consistent then fresh kiln dryer lumber that tends to be so dry that upon obsorbtion of moister the wood moves between 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch in bow or cupping or crowning.

Now let's talk about moving the stand. One really does not want to move a stand with a tank full of water, so why even bring it up? Why not add nylon caster? use majic slides if the stand is going to be moved? My stand is made of 4/4 milled down to 3/4. The stand weighs ruffly 150 plus the granite top that would be 250. Then with 72 gallons of water when full at 8 lbs per pound per gallon, that is additional 576 + 250 = 826 lbs and can be move on 6 x .05 cent nylon casters. I have moved the full tank and stand without issue on a hardwood floor several times.

So in conclusion if properly planed with old school jointery using mortise and tenons or over lapping joints an open stand can be created out of old 8/4 stock with the proper tooling.

What type of lumber is it? Pine, yellow pine? If yellow pine and depending on the age, the yellow pine will almost the harder the white oak. If pine I would just check to make sure there is no cracking in the wood:)

If you ever get to san Diego I'll buy the wood.... oops i meant food yea yea thats it!

I actually hate my stock stand, Ill have to wait for the upgrade to fix it. Thanks for the info. Im such a bad carpenter.

I'll see if 1 of my buddies need them and actually take the time to design my dream stand for this tank.

This is actually a friend of mine here in SD. I love this stand. Very arts and crafts era influenced.
http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/showthread.php?123827-Biocube-29-HQI-my-first-SW-attempt&highlight=
he dumped the used bio cube and bought an 80g btw I dont think he wanted to insult the stand.;)

 

[Duke4Life]

Another sacrifice 1 way or another I'm going to have 2 make is on the height. I already need a stool to reach the bottom and have thought about raising the height a few inches to get more room. More space is what I wish I had that I don't now, I'm a bit cramped when working in/on my sump.

 

[ReeferBob]

2x6s are fine for the stand. Using those you will not need any center supports on the stand. You can just go with 4 corners. Providing you use typical, accepted stand-making techniques.