The Modified Black Box Thread

[mdavis735]

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[reeferfoxx]

Do I need the 20 mm lenses??

Yes. you want 20mm diameter and 13.5mm height.

 

[hyde7278]

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[VbReefer]

I have 4 of these wifi populargrow/evergrow boxes

Are the individual leds soldered to a board or plug and play to replace?
I'm sure the lenses are just a straight swap right?
Best place to order the leds?

 

[reeferfoxx]

I have 4 of these wifi populargrow/evergrow boxes

Are the individual leds soldered to a board or plug and play to replace?
I'm sure the lenses are just a straight swap right?
Best place to order the leds?

The LEDs have two small soldering points. Unfortunately they are not plug and play. Soldering irons can be purchased for $15-$20. The led diodes can be found on Ebay. When searching ebay, search for 3w led chips and filter country. You want 3w diodes. Make sure it doesnt come from China as that can take a month for delivery. This is the seller i get mine from...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1W-3W-5W-Wh...hash=item1c79106409:m:mVbHNW-_HyJXm-3KRcQC67Q

When selecting the chip you want, select 3w 10 piece- without pcb- then color.

When using the soldering iron, keep initial warm up to 200deg. When ready, warm iron to 350 deg, and when idle turn temp down to 200 deg. If temp is hotter than 350, you risk burning out the led chip. This might happen a couple times anyway.

 

[rushbattle]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1W-3W-5W-Wh...hash=item1c79106409:m:mVbHNW-_HyJXm-3KRcQC67Q

When selecting the chip you want, select 3w 10 piece- without pcb- then color.

When using the soldering iron, keep initial warm up to 200deg. When ready, warm iron to 350 deg, and when idle turn temp down to 200 deg. If temp is hotter than 350, you risk burning out the led chip. This might happen a couple times anyway.

Good info! What kind of solder is required? I have leaded quad eutectic from audio stuff, which is probably a bad idea for these boards.

Is the transition between setpoints smooth like the radions, etc. or is it just hard transition in intensity between setpoints over the day with the wifi boxes?

Could you post your diode diagram when you get time? I don't need a graphic, just a list of what you have found to be the best balance. I'm using basic boxes from SB now, but I'd like a more natural ramping aesthetic for viewing.

Thanks, great thread!

 

[reeferfoxx]

Good info! What kind of solder is required? I have leaded quad eutectic from audio stuff, which is probably a bad idea for these boards.

Is the transition between setpoints smooth like the radions, etc. or is it just hard transition in intensity between setpoints over the day with the wifi boxes?

Could you post your diode diagram when you get time? I don't need a graphic, just a list of what you have found to be the best balance. I'm using basic boxes from SB now, but I'd like a more natural ramping aesthetic for viewing.

Thanks, great thread!

For soldering I'm not really familiar with different types. What I'm using is Lead-free wire - Alloy: Sn-0.7 Cu - Flux: 2.0%

I was going to post a graphic of my diode layout. Work and school has been ripping into my schedule lately but from what i'm found, mixing various 90 deg and 120 deg lenses really helps with penetration and spread. Another thing I discovered is the 90 deg clears vs 90 deg beaded lenses has an intensity difference. So my original 30% white and 70-80% blue was burning everything. I now peak at 18% white and 65% blue for 7 hours.

The populargrow and galaxy hydro WIFI units do not transition smoothly. It is a hard transition. However, you get 24 slots for times and settings. So you can set you 7-9 hours of peak time in one slot and use the rest to ramp up or down with whatever % you choose. I use a 5% - 10% intensity change per hour on my lights. Visually the hard transition isn't really noticeable and the fish aren't bothered. That said when whites or blues turn off, even at 1% its a hard transition off and is noticeable.

I will also post a light schedule graph and list of myu settings in the future.

 

[Michael Montgomery]

This sounds fun!

 

[reeferfoxx]

Today I ordered a Seneye Reef Monitor so I can get Lux/Par and Kelvin readings. I wanted to make sure my Lux conversion was on par(pun intended). Also wanted to make sure I was getting the correct kelvin with my current settings. I'll post readings within the next week or hopefully this weekend. Also, i'll get a chart going with my current LED config.

 

[reeferfoxx]

Got the Seneye Reef Monitor today. Went ahead and did some light measurements. I'll have more time this weekend to take more in-depth readings. I will say my current settings were under minimum PAR recommendations for a couple of my SPS. Also my $15 lux meter which gave me 30,000 lux at the surface is showing 15,000 lux with the seneye. To add my blue channel PUR percentage at 30% intensity is 83% and at 100% intensity is 80% pur. These are just a few things I tested this evening. My clown pair were not happy with me disrupting their evening regimen.

 

[reeferfoxx]

@saltyfilmfolks I'll be doing some light tests tonight. Any requests? I'll also be doing some minor comparisons between the mars aqua and my light.

 

[Michael Montgomery]

@saltyfilmfolks I'll be doing some light tests tonight. Any requests? I'll also being doing some minor comparisons between the mars aqua and my light.

Actually yes.... Since you offered.
On the Mars Aqua. Three different readings for each light channel + combined.

1) One set of values with the dimmer turned all the way down. (just barely turned on.)
2) Values just when the fans kick on... (seems like it's about 30%??)
3) Values at 100%

Repeat for the white(multicolor) channel, and then again with BOTH channels at the same time.

I know it's a lot of time, and it certainly is appreciated. But, I believe this would give us the details that a majority of users will need.

Again... Thank you SO much!

 

[reeferfoxx]

Actually yes.... Since you offered.
On the Mars Aqua. Three different readings for each light channel + combined.

1) One set of values with the dimmer turned all the way down. (just barely turned on.)
2) Values just when the fans kick on... (seems like it's about 30%??)
3) Values at 100%

Repeat for the white(multicolor) channel, and then again with BOTH channels at the same time.

I know it's a lot of time, and it certainly is appreciated. But, I believe this would give us the details that a majority of users will need.

Again... Thank you SO much!

You got it! Only thing is this is a 3 year old 16" box with stock 90 deg beaded lenses. There are some 120's on there but no diode chip changes.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Lux conversion was on par

;Wacky

Actually yes.... Since you offered.
On the Mars Aqua. Three different readings for each light channel + combined.

1) One set of values with the dimmer turned all the way down. (just barely turned on.)
2) Values just when the fans kick on... (seems like it's about 30%??)
3) Values at 100%

Repeat for the white(multicolor) channel, and then again with BOTH channels at the same time.

I know it's a lot of time, and it certainly is appreciated. But, I believe this would give us the details that a majority of users will need.

Again... Thank you SO much!

+1

Measure at full 100% at 12in for par and total lux. then 100% blue only, White only.

I believe you have a standard lux meter as well, Id try a side by side with the seneye to see if the lux measurement are the same.
Obviously you'll have pretty instant access to lux/par on the seney, OOPS, just saw this.

Also my $15 lux meter which gave me 30,000 lux at the surface is showing 15,000 lux with the seneye.

that IMO is concerning. My $15 intensity meter is matched perfectly with my $500 lab calibrated one.
@jason2459 thoughts?
Jus sayin, the lux intensity should be exactly the same.

 

[reeferfoxx]

that IMO is concerning. My $15 intensity meter is matched perfectly with my $500 lab calibrated one.

Yes i was currious about this. Obviously if you multiply by 2 they match. But it seems overall lux readings are low on the seneye. Even when par is around 400 the lux is almost hitting 20k. So i'm not sure. I'll get a clearer picture this evening.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Yes i was currious about this. Obviously if you multiply by 2 they match. But it seems overall lux readings are low on the seneye. Even when par is around 400 the lux is almost hitting 20k. So i'm not sure. I'll get a clearer picture this evening.

One simple test to(the seney has a tiny sensor) crank the light up, put the meter side by side and put a piece of white paper over both meter sensors.
dispersing the light over a broader area should rule out the smaller sensor reading not all of the lights(disco spots).

wow, thats weird and really one of the tests I really wanted to see done.

 

[reeferfoxx]

One simple test to(the seney has a tiny sensor) crank the light up, put the meter side by side and put a piece of white paper over both meter sensors.
dispersing the light over a broader area should rule out the smaller sensor reading not all of the lights(disco spots).

wow, thats weird and really one of the tests I really wanted to see done.

I can do that too!

I been trying to look for documentation on how the lux is measured. Can't find anything though.

 

[jason2459]

I can not vouch for the accuracy of the Seneye LUX portion as I was only concerned with the PAR and PUR. I'm also not really concerned with the LUX, unless convinced otherwise, when I have what appears to be accurate enough readings of PAR as I and BRS compared vs other PAR meters. If I had a LUX meter I would compare the Seneye's results but I don't have the desire to get one.

 

[reeferfoxx]

I can not vouch for the accuracy of the Seneye LUX portion as I was only concerned with the PAR and PUR. I'm also not really concerned with the LUX, unless convinced otherwise, when I have what appears to be accurate enough readings of PAR as I and BRS compared vs other PAR meters. If I had a LUX meter I would compare the Seneye's results but I don't have the desire to get one.

Since you are running T5's I would think LUX would help with knowing when the bulbs go bad?

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I'm also not really concerned with the LUX, unless convinced otherwise,

I think we should be as it measures light intensity. so to have 2 light meters with inconsistent readings is kinda concerning.

Maybe the par meter is good but the lux meter is just terrible. A this point Id like to use my color meter against theirs as well.