UPS Uninterupted Power Supply

[Freenow54]

Second what rating of a UPS would I need to run dc return pump, lights , heater . anything missing ? Which I could switch on and off as needed ( which is actually another question to answer depending on when the power failed )for a reasonable time say 5- 8 hours . Or second approach but totally different if power went down through the day run my portable generator during the day. And use the UOS at night when I did not need my lights.

 

[lapin]

You will need to measure the power draw with all equipment on. This will give us something to go on as far as how big a battery you need for a given amount of time.

 

[Timfish]

First, an UPS that's for powering computers and electronic equipment usually only run at a set output and consequently only run for a short time. A power station is the preferred choice as it will adjust it's output and run a lot longer depending on the load.

To figure out what size power station you need you'll need to add up the wattage of the equipment you want to run. Multiply that by the hours you want the power station to run them. That will give you the size of [power station needed. For example, to run a 100 watt return pump and a 100 watt heater added together that's 200 watts. Multiply that by 5 hours and a 1000 watt power station will be needed to run them 5 hours.

Power station tend to be advertised by two different wattage numbers. One is it's total wattage it can supply (or watt hours). The other is the amount of wattage it can provide at one time. It's important to understand the distinction as it relates to how long it will run something. A 500 watt power station that can run a 1000 watts of equipment can only run it for half an hour. A 2000 watt power station that can run 1500 watts of equipment can only run it for an hour and 20 minutes. For a 100 watt pump and 100 watt heater a 2000 watt power station can run them for 10 hours.

For your application you'll probably want to just run a return pump and heater. one alternative is to get one of the batttery operted air pumps available online that automaticly turn on when power is lost and just run a heater with a power station until you can start your generator. But if you want to run everything off a power station there are lots of videos online with various solutions.

 

[CHSUB]

I have an auto transfer inverter and a 300 ah battery with trickle charge. If battery runs out have a 100 ah backup battery that can be charged with my car and go back and forth. Also 2 gas generators big and small, with the smaller an option to run natural gas.

 

[Freenow54]

First, an UPS that's for powering computers and electronic equipment usually only run at a set output and consequently only run for a short time. A power station is the preferred choice as it will adjust it's output and run a lot longer depending on the load.

To figure out what size power station you need you'll need to add up the wattage of the equipment you want to run. Multiply that by the hours you want the power station to run them. That will give you the size of [power station needed. For example, to run a 100 watt return pump and a 100 watt heater added together that's 200 watts. Multiply that by 5 hours and a 1000 watt power station will be needed to run them 5 hours.

Power station tend to be advertised by two different wattage numbers. One is it's total wattage it can supply (or watt hours). The other is the amount of wattage it can provide at one time. It's important to understand the distinction as it relates to how long it will run something. A 500 watt power station that can run a 1000 watts of equipment can only run it for half an hour. A 2000 watt power station that can run 1500 watts of equipment can only run it for an hour and 20 minutes. For a 100 watt pump and 100 watt heater a 2000 watt power station can run them for 10 hours.

For your application you'll probably want to just run a return pump and heater. one alternative is to get one of the batttery operted air pumps available online that automaticly turn on when power is lost and just run a heater with a power station until you can start your generator. But if you want to run everything off a power station there are lots of videos online with various solutions.

Thank you for the math it now seems that a better choice would be a whole house generator. Generac 2000 power supply is C $ 2,500 a Generac 7, 5,00 - 15,000 watt whole house with switch is around $6 . I can do the rough install , on a pad , including finished natural gas hookup, and run the correct wiring to the panel , and know personally an excellent electrician that has his own business.

 

[n2585722]

The only pumps I leave running in a power outage is my flow pumps and that is at a minimal flow rate so the batteries used should last for hours. Of coarse the return pump, skimmer pump and heaters are not going to run. That has worked for me for the 9 years the tank was setup. We did have rolling blackouts several years back that lasted a week. The power was off 50% of the time if it was off an hour it was on an hour. If it was off 4 hours then it was on 4 hours. The tank temp did drop to below 70 degrees and took a couple of days to get back up to 76 where the heaters were set. I did not loose any fish or corals from the event. It was also below 32 degrees for that week the whole time which is rare for us.

 

[IPT]

I was looking at this and computer UPS are quite low on Amp hours. I ended up getting a EcoFlow River 3 with added battery on sale at REI (with my 20% member deal) and it gives me like 560 watt/hours or something close to that. It'll run a few powerhead for like 10 hours or more (at normal speeds) based on my testing.

I could use AC via the invertor or it even has a 12V out (I think Mp 10a dn MP 40 can use this) but then they run at 50% power. I can also log in online and check the battery power remaining and watts being used. Since my tank is remote at my office I like this feature! If it goes longer than 12 hours I'll bring out the generator.

 

[Subsea]

Battery backup for heaters is not a viable option. When I lost power for a week during an ice storm, I heated my living space with wood burning fireplace and used battery backup air pump for life support.

Amazon product ASIN B004PBIKHU

 

[radfly]

This… I have one with two 100 amp batteries. Runs two aquariums, heaters and all, for 7 hours in winter.

Amazon product ASIN B0D3H8R612

 

[Subsea]

This… I have one with two 100 amp batteries. Runs two aquariums, heaters and all, for 7 hours in winter.

Amazon product ASIN B0D3H8R612

How big are your tanks?

200AHr times 12VDC equals 2400 WHrs divided by 7 Hrs run time will run less than 350W of equipment.

PS: That’s an excellent module system that you linked.

 

[Dom]

In a short-term, emergency situation, circulation pumps (returns and power heads) are your priority. Do not worry about lighting and heat.

 

[Freenow54]

It still remains whether an APS is a good idea to protect the DC electronics while switching is being done ? Thoughts ?

This… I have one with two 100 amp batteries. Runs two aquariums, heaters and all, for 7 hours in winter.

Amazon product ASIN B0D3H8R612

I don't see any photo if you attached one

 

[BeanAnimal]

Thank you for the math it now seems that a better choice would be a whole house generator. Generac 2000 power supply is C $ 2,500 a Generac 7, 5,00 - 15,000 watt whole house with switch is around $6 . I can do the rough install , on a pad , including finished natural gas hookup, and run the correct wiring to the panel , and know personally an excellent electrician that has his own business.

I would steer you toward Kohler instead of Generac.
Wiring is not hard, but can be a bit more involved than you may think depending on if you are transferring the whole service or simply transferring to a generator panel that contains the circuits that will run on generator.

This is my 200A service rated transfer switch and 22kW generator. They sit on opposite sides of the home. Old service entrance cable to left was removed and pulled into this box. It comes from the meter socket. The wires being landed are the OO feeders from the generator.

Cabling (line voltage and control) conduit and gas pipe were maybe $1200 my cost. I already owned a knock out punch and concrete core drill, but you will need that kind of equipment to do it right. I poured my own pad and did all of the work myself. The actual generator cost can be roughly 50% or less of the actual cost of a turn-key install.

 

[OfficeReefer]

Thank you for the math it now seems that a better choice would be a whole house generator. Generac 2000 power supply is C $ 2,500 a Generac 7, 5,00 - 15,000 watt whole house with switch is around $6 . I can do the rough install , on a pad , including finished natural gas hookup, and run the correct wiring to the panel , and know personally an excellent electrician that has his own business.

This is the best way. If you do have automation solutions like Apex controllers, you will however have to consider the following: https://forum.neptunesystems.com/showthread.php?24975-help-with-power-loss-detection

 

[OfficeReefer]

In a short-term, emergency situation, circulation pumps (returns and power heads) are your priority. Do not worry about lighting and heat.

This too

 

[mh0ward]

I’ve got my nano running off of an EcoFlow Delta 2.

 

[Freenow54]

I would steer you toward Kohler instead of Generac.
Wiring is not hard, but can be a bit more involved than you may think depending on if you are transferring the whole service or simply transferring to a generator panel that contains the circuits that will run on generator.

This is my 200A service rated transfer switch and 22kW generator. They sit on opposite sides of the home. Old service entrance cable to left was removed and pulled into this box. It comes from the meter socket. The wires being landed are the OO feeders from the generator.

Cabling (line voltage and control) conduit and gas pipe were maybe $1200 my cost. I already owned a knock out punch and concrete core drill, but you will need that kind of equipment to do it right. I poured my own pad and did all of the work myself. The actual generator cost can be roughly 50% or less of the actual cost of a turn-key install.

Wow I did not get notified of these just stumbled on them while wanting to post something . Thanks for the info. I am very comfortable doing that sort of work . One thing was thinking of using a composite pad that is available for them ? I was just told about the Kohler yesterday which is apparently sold at Costco . Why do you recommend them ? Are they made in Germany or off shored ?

 

[BeanAnimal]

In general Kohler is arguably a better engine and generator head, regardless of country of manufacture. I also prefer their control electronics and transfer switches, especially their service rated ATS.

The dealer network may be smaller and more commercially aligned and the units and service may be more expensive, but you get what you pay for.

Bang for the buck is not just about kW for per dollar spent. A standby generator needs to have both long term reliability and be easily serviced. Regardless of brand you choose, you need to make sure that there is one or more well established authorized service dealers in your area.

Composite pads are fine, though I prefer a permanent concrete pad properly leveled and poured over a proper sub-base and base. It is far less likely to shift or move seasonally (if at all).

 

[Freenow54]

In general Kohler is arguably a better engine and generator head, regardless of country of manufacture. I also prefer their control electronics and transfer switches, especially their service rated ATS.

The dealer network may be smaller and more commercially aligned and the units and service may be more expensive, but you get what you pay for.

Bang for the buck is not just about kW for per dollar spent. A standby generator needs to have both long term reliability and be easily serviced. Regardless of brand you choose, you need to make sure that there is one or more well established authorized service dealers in your area.

Composite pads are fine, though I prefer a permanent concrete pad properly leveled and poured over a proper sub-base and base. It is far less likely to shift or move seasonally (if at all).

All Excellent points especially here as to Concrete, I did my own sidewalk and researched from people who did it and found that putting in rebar I suppose now the wire is easier and a one pour method is best if putting in flagstone otherwise if you do it after the mortar does not bond as well and ants and water pop the stones . I had to resort to epoxy finally . Just a ramble since I have no plans on adding stones to this pad . Hopefully is service available very good to know since I have a contact that can get Generac wholesale so a 20 would be about I am told 3 thousand for a twenty. I am always in favour of spending money for quality so not easy but will take your advice as long as I can get it serviced. I must have been living right because a lot of things are going my way lately especially my health . Thanks

 

[Freenow54]

I would steer you toward Kohler instead of Generac.
Wiring is not hard, but can be a bit more involved than you may think depending on if you are transferring the whole service or simply transferring to a generator panel that contains the circuits that will run on generator.

This is my 200A service rated transfer switch and 22kW generator. They sit on opposite sides of the home. Old service entrance cable to left was removed and pulled into this box. It comes from the meter socket. The wires being landed are the OO feeders from the generator.

Cabling (line voltage and control) conduit and gas pipe were maybe $1200 my cost. I already owned a knock out punch and concrete core drill, but you will need that kind of equipment to do it right. I poured my own pad and did all of the work myself. The actual generator cost can be roughly 50% or less of the actual cost of a turn-key install.

Last question for today promise. Why do you say a core drill is necessary ? My Home is poured concrete with Vinyl siding