3D Printing thread

Cameron Martinez

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Those are probably the ones printed in PET-G which is generally considered ideal for reef applications. Randy Holmes-Farley, the resident chemist, suggested PET-G if Nylon wasn't reasonable. There is questions still as to what was used for the pigments in the filament but there's not any easy way to know. I don't know what I would trust more than the filament to coat with them honestly. They would be easier to clean if they are are coated in a clear coat of some kind to fill in the ridges of the print, but then there's the question of how safe the clear coat is.

There isn't much data on the long term effects yet. I would be interested to do some ICP testing with controls and various print plastics in the future but it's outside of my current budget. That said from my personal experience with printed parts I wouldn't bat an eye at using PET-G prints underwater assuming they have been thoroughly rinsed before use.



Thank you for your feed back it is greatly appreciated!!

I contacted the person I purchased these from and the only information he gave me is it is ABS plastic. Is there different materials I should try to get further information on what they used? Or in general if it is ABS would it be safe?

I know nothing is 100% with this as far as long term, but as general knowledge of 3d printing materials would ABS be considered safe?

Thanks again!
 

ludnix

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ABS is fine, theres always the question of what additives they may have used but if you know what type of filament was used you could find out. I wouldn't worry about it myself unless it was a specialty blend for the ABS claiming to be more flexible or stronger. That would mean something else is mixed in and I would want to know what it is.
 

GrizFyrFyter

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Had a vendor ask me to make him something to hold torch/frogspawn/hammer corals up and wasn't pvc pipes.

Put a hole is a skull model. Printed and used that to make a silicone mold.

First casting went well.
82b0f0160d7498f408c48b0b130fe9e6.jpg
 

MaccaPopEye

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My reef-pi build has been held up for a little while but I finished designing and printed the main hosing a while ago. I figured even though I haven't got time to build it right now someone else might appreciate the files. So I have uploaded the files for the main brain housing to Thingi for anyone who is interested in making it or even remixing it!

I have uploaded 2 versions.
The first version is how I plan to use it. It has stand off mounts built in for a Raspberry-pi and a half size proto board plus an assortment of I/O ports that I plan to use. These files can be found here (as always F360 files are included):
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3659860

The second version is an enclosure with a blank I/O panel and it only has stand off mounts for a Raspberry-pi and that is it. This version will be way easier for people to customize and remix with only the sketch and extrude tools in F360! You can easily add I/O ports or stand off mounts for anything you want in the enclosure :) This is perfect for many of the wicked reef-pi hats available now, The internal dimensions are 179.9mm(L) x 141.25mm(W) x 63.5mm(H) and the files can be found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3660375

Cheers,

Macca
 

TheHarold

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I still don't understand adhesion issues. I really have never, unless the bed isn't level, had a problem getting something to stick.

If you take time to tune things...

I think newbies will touch the bed when removing things, and get skin-oils on it. But agreed, a clean bed and reasonable leveling makes life easy.
 

ludnix

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My reef-pi build has been held up for a little while but I finished designing and printed the main hosing a while ago. I figured even though I haven't got time to build it right now someone else might appreciate the files. So I have uploaded the files for the main brain housing to Thingi for anyone who is interested in making it or even remixing it!

I have uploaded 2 versions.
The first version is how I plan to use it. It has stand off mounts built in for a Raspberry-pi and a half size proto board plus an assortment of I/O ports that I plan to use. These files can be found here (as always F360 files are included):
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3659860

The second version is an enclosure with a blank I/O panel and it only has stand off mounts for a Raspberry-pi and that is it. This version will be way easier for people to customize and remix with only the sketch and extrude tools in F360! You can easily add I/O ports or stand off mounts for anything you want in the enclosure :) This is perfect for many of the wicked reef-pi hats available now, The internal dimensions are 179.9mm(L) x 141.25mm(W) x 63.5mm(H) and the files can be found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3660375

Cheers,

Macca
Great work Macca! I will definitely be using it when I get a chance to start a reef pi!
 

Erica-Renee

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BTW, have you guys upgraded to cura 4? (Those that use it)

I printed the same thing in the previous version and it looks better reslicing it in 4. Same filament, printer, settings, etc.

Been using cura 4 for a bit. but i had a profile corruption issue a few times . Luckily for backups .
 

Ichthus1

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I decided to make this to hold my new par sensor. I attached the printed parts to a piece of 1/2" diameter hollow acrylic rod. The screw and nut are stainless steel. The sensor can be mounted in either direction for getting into tight spots. There is a hole in the bottom mount that allows water to fill the tube as it enters the water, so it doesn't float.
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MSB123

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Cool! I have 1k to spend on a printer. 3 Ender 5's, 1 Prusa MK3s, or something else?
 

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