zoasaholic

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I couldn’t help myself.... haha

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Hardcore reefer addicting
 
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pelphrey

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Just a suggestion to help with your SPS since you have a low nutrient problem, run your ALK 7-7.5. low nutrients and ALK over 8 usually includes problems for SPS

Thanks for the advice! To offset I've dosed phosphates and nitrates. It never really occurred to me to run a lower alk with the low nutrients! Much appreciated.
 

RedneckReefer68

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I dose seachem phosphorus. I used to have to dose nitrates but it's finally staying at around 5 now. I have total water volume of about 50g and one drop off seachem s phosphorus in 1g of my ato water keeps my p04 steady at .02-.03 every week when I do my testing. I evaporate about 4g every 5 days.
 
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pelphrey

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I dose seachem phosphorus. I used to have to dose nitrates but it's finally staying at around 5 now. I have total water volume of about 50g and one drop off seachem s phosphorus in 1g of my ato water keeps my p04 steady at .02-.03 every week when I do my testing. I evaporate about 4g every 5 days.

Never crossed my mind to add phosphorous to my ATO water. Hmm time to do some research! Awesome idea!

Whenever my mag gets too low I have issues with my LPS. 1200 isn't crazy low but I don't like seeing mine go below 1300

I have some mag, should I dose it up?
 
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pelphrey

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All new corals in the middle of tank. Should be at 200+- par. Frags were under T5 Reef Brite @whitlyn.aquatics should I move them lower, higher or keep them in the middle?

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RedneckReefer68

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Is the first one the red planet look a like? If so I'm blasting mine at the top of the tank with blueacro half star pucks

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Looks like you have the ice fire enchinata look alike also? I have mine mid tank 300ish par. ( No par meter) after a couple months in just seeing it encrusting a little bit

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The third one looks like the SSC variation they have? 250-300 par to start with. Then move it up of course darken in about 3 weeks
 
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rtparty

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Never crossed my mind to add phosphorous to my ATO water. Hmm time to do some research! Awesome idea!



I have some mag, should I dose it up?
Adding phosphorus to your ATO is not a controllable way to dose. Unless your tank consistently evaporates the same amount every day?

Adding a small dose once a day is super easy and more controlled.

As for the Mag, I would personally dose it up closer to 1300 over a couple days. NSW is ~1285 according to RHF. I believe magnesium also plays a major role in helping keep alk and cal in balance. I don't know the science behind that but I'm sure a quick search would yield results.
 
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pelphrey

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Is the first one the red planet look a like? If so I'm blasting mine at the top of the tank with blueacro half star pucks

75779de5cb9ffe1b14bec45587eb24cc.jpg


Looks like you have the ice fire enchinata look alike also? I have mine mid tank 300ish par. ( No par meter) after a couple months in just seeing it encrusting a little bit

4ae992da527ddd39d17088e8157810c6.jpg


The third one looks like the SSC variation they have? 250-300 par to start with. Then move it up of course darken in about 3 weeks

Yep, red planet. Not sure on the blue one, I’d say you’re right. I’m BAD with names. I just point at what I like! Haha

Adding phosphorus to your ATO is not a controllable way to dose. Unless your tank consistently evaporates the same amount every day?

Adding a small dose once a day is super easy and more controlled.

As for the Mag, I would personally dose it up closer to 1300 over a couple days. NSW is ~1285 according to RHF. I believe magnesium also plays a major role in helping keep alk and cal in balance. I don't know the science behind that but I'm sure a quick search would yield results.

Didn’t think about that. I dosed a cap full yesterday, tested twice today and Hanna read 0 so I dosed 2 caps. Typically adding Reef Roids to a frozen cube will help phosphates. I also added 15ml of mag, calculator said I needed 60ml.
 
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pelphrey

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Fresh water change, miracle mud thrown away and running carbon for the first time in a LONG time!

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AcanthurusRex

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I personally think one should pick a salt and stick with it. I aim for a dKH of 8 so I use RS blue bucket. There are others that would work for me but stability if more important than a sale price. IO is always cheaper than RedSea.
Our tanks are very similar. I have never been able to maintain any measurable nitrates or phosphates. I have tried dosing and every time I do something dies. I've had SPS that have been "existing" in my tank for a year die shortly after dosing. This may be related to the Seachem products which I just dumped down the drain. Recently I dosed a tiny pit of Seachem Phosphorus and almost immediately found additional SPS start the slow die off. I had a similar experience every time I dose Seachem Nitrogen. I don't think I see the same issues when dosing sodium nitrate.
I'm not going to test nitrates or phosphates as often anymore, I'm chasing numbers and getting the typical response you get chasing numbers. I always dose small with the idea of slowly ramping up to the desired levels but my tank reduces nitrates to zero quickly. It is possible that dosing manually is causing nitrates to fluctuate between just measurable and zero and that change is the cause of the SPS issues. Don't know but it's an instability I am choosing to cause so I am going to quit and add more fish and overfeed. I liked it better when the SPS corals were existing rather than actively dying.
I like the look of the Radions using the diffuser. Based on the PAR measurements you posted I don't think you have the intensity for the corals you are trying to keep. Removing the Kessils won't help.
 
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I personally think one should pick a salt and stick with it. I aim for a dKH of 8 so I use RS blue bucket. There are others that would work for me but stability if more important than a sale price. IO is always cheaper than RedSea.
Our tanks are very similar. I have never been able to maintain any measurable nitrates or phosphates. I have tried dosing and every time I do something dies. I've had SPS that have been "existing" in my tank for a year die shortly after dosing. This may be related to the Seachem products which I just dumped down the drain. Recently I dosed a tiny pit of Seachem Phosphorus and almost immediately found additional SPS start the slow die off. I had a similar experience every time I dose Seachem Nitrogen. I don't think I see the same issues when dosing sodium nitrate.
I'm not going to test nitrates or phosphates as often anymore, I'm chasing numbers and getting the typical response you get chasing numbers. I always dose small with the idea of slowly ramping up to the desired levels but my tank reduces nitrates to zero quickly. It is possible that dosing manually is causing nitrates to fluctuate between just measurable and zero and that change is the cause of the SPS issues. Don't know but it's an instability I am choosing to cause so I am going to quit and add more fish and overfeed. I liked it better when the SPS corals were existing rather than actively dying.
I like the look of the Radions using the diffuser. Based on the PAR measurements you posted I don't think you have the intensity for the corals you are trying to keep. Removing the Kessils won't help.

I use coral pro currently and even a 5 gallon water change won’t change alk much if any at all. With reef crystals being elevated like coral pro it would be the same thing. I used RC before and had no issue with it.

Like you I am looking to add more fish. I feed a frozen cube once a day and pellets twice a day. I just wantphosphates and nitrates detectable.

What would be your suggestion on my lighting? Leave it alone, go with radions, add another kessil?
 

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