Finally a Heater that Keeps Temps Stable

Innovative Marine

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@Innovative Marine
I want to echo both of these comments. I just bought the helio and it is amazing, but I had to relegate the controller to my cabinet instead of with the rest of my electronics due to the cord length. I would love to see longer cable lengths, or possibly extension cables be offered.

On the same note, I want to suggest the ability to split 1 cable from the controller to 2 heaters, allowing for up to 4 heaters from a single controller.
@ccurnick I've already submitted a request for longer cords on the higher wattage elements to R&D. I will ask them if it possible to run a split from the cable. I am not sure if that is possible. I will keep you posted. Thanks IM
 

Innovative Marine

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Very happy with this thread for providing valuable info about the product so that everyone can make their own determination about meeting needs.

Also hoping that Innovative Marine takes the feedback in this thread and improves their product. That’s the sign of a great company.
@PeterC99 We appreciate the feedback, our number one goal is to create a heating system that is safer and more reliable for live inhabitants. We are definitely here to listen and improve on the product. thanks IM
 

Reef.

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If you use a controller the heaters accuracy becomes irrelevant, especially if using a titanium heater as most of those don’t have a thermostat.
 

kkircher

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If you use a controller the heaters accuracy becomes irrelevant, especially if using a titanium heater as most of those don’t have a thermostat.
I found accuracy of inkbird to sway more then 1 degree. Trying to be consistent I chose to try helio with much more safeguards then just a heater and inkbird. I do have an apex but from some posts I have, you can wear out the energy bar port with the constant turn on and off.
With over 200g water volume I was running multiple heaters that just came on and off. I am noticing with helio that it will turn 1 heater on and only turn the other on if needed. Ie: during the day when ambient temperature isn’t fluctuating water temp as much only 1 seems to be eunning. At night when room temp is lower it seems to kick both on. Unfortunately I have no documentation to back that feature up. Just what I was told by support.
 

Reef.

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I found accuracy of inkbird to sway more then 1 degree. Trying to be consistent I chose to try helio with much more safeguards then just a heater and inkbird. I do have an apex but from some posts I have, you can wear out the energy bar port with the constant turn on and off.
With over 200g water volume I was running multiple heaters that just came on and off. I am noticing with helio that it will turn 1 heater on and only turn the other on if needed. Ie: during the day when ambient temperature isn’t fluctuating water temp as much only 1 seems to be eunning. At night when room temp is lower it seems to kick both on. Unfortunately I have no documentation to back that feature up. Just what I was told by support.

I agree the inkbird fluctuates too much, I’m looking to change mine.

Ive heard that before about only one heater coming on, not sure if the inkbird does that, so what I’ve done is put both heaters into the same socket using a double plug adapter, I feel it will be more stable that way.
 

uninformed

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You beat me to it. I’m not sure how Inkbird became the go to controller. The Bayite is about the same price for the two channel 15A model.

.1° resolution vs 1° On the InkBird and the Bayite is frankly better quality. The only thing that could be better is the temp probe, it’s stainless and will rust/leak after while. That’s easily “fixed” y either covering it in silicone or spending a few dollars to by a better probe.

My experience over the last year has been the Bayite holds calibration better than Inkbird as well. I check the calibration of both my Apex and Bayite once a week using a Hanna temp check. I frequently have to calibrate my Apex but seldom have to calibrate the Bayite, maybe once every six weeks or so I adjust the Bayite.

With the 15A model I run two 100W BRS heaters on the heater channel and two fans on the chiller channel with no problem. I never have the heater and fans fighting one another.

I’ll never own another Inkbird.
Can you run the Bayite with two heaters, one in each outlet, and simply reverse the setpoints on the cooling channel? For example, Heater 1 kicks on at 77.5, but Heater 2 kicks on if the temp drops below 77?
 

Reef.

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Can you run the Bayite with two heaters, one in each outlet, and simply reverse the setpoints on the cooling channel? For example, Heater 1 kicks on at 77.5, but Heater 2 kicks on if the temp drops below 77?

put both heaters in the same socket.
 

RC Corals

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2 heaters will always be more consistent than a single, and 1 to 1.5 degree fluctuation is nothing to be worried about.
 

Reef.

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2 heaters will always be more consistent than a single, and 1 to 1.5 degree fluctuation is nothing to be worried about.

my ink bird does that every hour, I agree probably not an issue but fluctuating that much every hour just seems not good.

The specs of mine say .3c but it’s much more than that, it can be as much as .8 swing per hour, and the inkbird also seems to stall, the probe doesn’t update the display , seems to only update every 15 minutes or so.
 

uninformed

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put both heaters in the same socket.
Two heaters in the same sockets mean two heaters come on when called. That’s not what I’m after. I can trigger two heaters with two different set points with two WILLHI temp controllers, but having only one base unit instead of two saves a lot of room.
 

kkircher

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2 heaters will always be more consistent than a single, and 1 to 1.5 degree fluctuation is nothing to be worried about.
Ya earlier in the thread this was a hot topic that kind of hi-jacked the helio review. The safeguards in the heater and consistency is what I am looking at. So far consistent in my short term using it. Only time will tell on longevity.

One other thing, I think inkbird may top out on total watts. I wasn’t able to plug both 600w BRS heaters into it and feel comfortable. I was plugging one into it and one into apex which was basically a failsafe. Both heaters are now in one controller and less overall wattage but more consistent.
Time will tell. Left my BRS hooked up to apex and set below low alarm of helio, in case helio controller crashed because now there is a single point of failure.
 

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@Hydrored I'm sorry to hear that the length of the cord from the element to the controller isn't long enough. I can definitely see why a longer cord would be required if you have a fixed control board/panel set up for longer aquariums. I can check if we can get you longer cords for the higher wattage elements. If are willingly to use the current cords, we can send out new ones with longer cords once they come in free of charge. BTW, how long would you require the cord length to fit your set up?

thanks,
IM Team

@Innovative Marine it will not allow me to message you
 
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PeterC99

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3 weeks now with HELIO heater. Had to move temp sensor to my overflow box - kept getting E1 errors (sensor error) when sensor and heating elements were too close to each other in sump. No issues since moving sensor to overflow box.

That said, my 90 gallon tank temps have only moved from 77.8 to 78.2. Very happy with consistent temps.
 

DHill6

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I do have it powered through the APEX as a fail-safe but this unit lets you set the audible alarm for both high and low temps.
I had mine plugged into apex also but IM said to unplug it from Apex. Heard of this?
 
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PeterC99

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I had mine plugged into apex also but IM said to unplug it from Apex. Heard of this?
Have not heard of this. Why did IM say to unplug from the Apex?

Actually like having the Helio plugged into the Apex so that I can monitor electricity usage. Also I will get Apex email alert should something go wrong...
 

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Something about Neptune put something out saying switching on and off harms their plugs? If the Helio is controlling it, that shouldn’t matter correct?
 

DHill6

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I did turn my sound alarms off, turning it back on so I catch any error codes if it happens.
 

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