Hyposalinity for prazi resistant flukes?

[Miami Reef]

You have to look closely to differentiate between eye flukes and eye infection. Flukes can be distinguished as translucent oval looking objects (photos below); whereas an eye infection is oftentimes a single, layered white or hazy “growth” over or under most of the eyeball.

https://humble.fish/eye-issues/

 

[Phlynamjax]

I ran copper with hypo at 1.010 before. No issues.

 

[Miami Reef]

I need to know what symptoms your fish have. Basically: what made you decide to take them from the Display tank?

Any deaths? Swimming towards powerhead? Scratching? Spots/dots? Heavy breathing?

Tell me all the physical and behavioral symptoms so we can find potential parasites.

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

Here’s step 1: Raise your Display tank temperature at 81F and mark 45 days later from when you removed all fish. That is the day you can add back all the fish.

We are going to come up with a treatment plan now. I need pictures of the goby.

Also answer how you learned you still had flukes.

Here's a video...His eyes actually look really good rn. Best I've seen. But tail still the same rn. Btw he's pale because I woke him up.

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

I need to know what symptoms your fish have. Basically: what made you decide to take them from the Display tank?

Any deaths? Swimming towards powerhead? Scratching? Spots/dots? Heavy breathing?

Tell me all the physical and behavioral symptoms so we can find potential parasites.

I'll list history of symptoms for my fish...

Sailfin Tang (Deceased):
- Heavy breathing for 2 days before death
- hazey/ blurry skin, hazey eyes or slight cloudyness to them.
- patches of hazier skin/mucous.
- Itched Once or twice.
- Stayed toward bottom of tank for his last 2 days.

Sleeper Banded Goby (QT):
- Had blurry eyes only on the center of the eye.
- Tail haze/ blurriness.
- Yawning quite often
- Itched a couple times about a week ago

Clownfish (QT):
- Head Shake a few days ago (gave fw dip before qt)
- lethargic a few days ago
- look fine to me now, were trying to mate recently in qt.
- about a week ago clowns were swimming into power head.

 

[Miami Reef]

@SaltwaterGuruNeeded Did you say you already did a 5 minute freshwater dip to diagnose flukes? If not, let’s do that first to diagnose flukes. I

This is a blanket treatment to cover any potential parasites. Velvet and brooknella are the most deadly.

Copper power at 2.5ppm for 30 days. During the first 14 days of treatment you’d add metroplex by seachem every other day.

That would eliminate marine ich, marine velvet, and brooknella. 2 of the most deadly parasites would be knocked off.

All that would be left is flukes. I would do the freshwater dip first to identify flukes before attempting to treat for them.

Edit: The bacterial infection just requires patience. The immune system will fight those off. The most probable likelihood is that there was either a parasite or tank mate that left a small wound on the fish which got infected.

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

@SaltwaterGuruNeeded Did you say you already did a 5 minute freshwater dip to diagnose flukes? If not, let’s do that first to diagnose flukes. I

This is a blanket treatment to cover any potential parasites. Velvet and brooknella are the most deadly.

Copper power at 2.5ppm for 30 days. During the first 14 days of treatment you’d add metroplex by seachem every other day.

That would eliminate marine ich, marine velvet, and brooknella. 2 of the most deadly parasites would be knocked off.

All that would be left is flukes. I would do the freshwater dip first to identify flukes before attempting to treat for them.

Edit: The bacterial infection just requires patience. The immune system will fight those off. The most probable likelihood is that there was either a parasite or tank mate that left a small wound on the fish which got infected.

Yes I did a fw dip on them before they went into quarantine. Like they came out of the display, to the 5 minute fw dip, and then directly to the qt.

The qt is also sterile...I added biospira to get it started. The water is new. Everything in qt was sterile until I added the fish.

 

[Miami Reef]

Yes I did a fw dip on them before they went into quarantine. Like they came out of the display, to the 5 minute fw dip, and then directly to the qt.

The qt is also sterile...I added biospira to get it started. The water is new. Everything in qt was sterile until I added the fish.

Did you see anything in the water? I don’t think there’s any flukes. It’s normal for fish to scratch a few weeks after having flukes/ich. They are itchy because the parasites make small irritating wounds. The fish is healing.

This is what I’d personally do: Purchase 2 black freshwater mollies and acclimate them to the tank. Here is the theory: freshwater mollies have no immunity to saltwater parasites. Any freshwater parasites will die when they enter saltwater.

You have a canary fish with no immunity to parasites. This means any ich/velvet/brook/uronema/flukes will show on the mollie fast. And you will clearly see it as they are black.

Humblefish (disease expert) highly recommends using them. It’s also used by biologists and marine public aquarium keepers to ensure to parasites can slip through QT undetected.

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

Did you see anything in the water? I don’t think there’s any flukes. It’s normal for fish to scratch a few weeks after having flukes/ich. They are itchy because the parasites make small irritating wounds that are healing.

I did, but they were really small. Looked opaque, like foggy. I looked under a microscope and didn't see anything alarming. But maybe because there was no movement.

 

[Miami Reef]

I did, but they were really small. Looked opaque, like foggy. I looked under a microscope and didn't see anything alarming. But maybe because there was no movement.

I updated my post above.

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

Did you see anything in the water? I don’t think there’s any flukes. It’s normal for fish to scratch a few weeks after having flukes/ich. They are itchy because the parasites make small irritating wounds. The fish is healing.

This is what I’d personally do: Purchase 2 black freshwater mollies and acclimate them to the tank. Here is the theory: freshwater mollies have no immunity to saltwater parasites. Any freshwater parasites will die when they enter saltwater.

You have a canary fish with no immunity to parasites. This means any ich/velvet/brook/uronema/flukes will show on the mollie fast. And you will clearly see it as they are black.

Humblefish (disease expert) highly recommends using them. It’s also used by biologists and marine public aquarium keepers to ensure to parasites can slip through QT undetected.

Might put one in towards end of quarantine. When I'm observing the fish.

 

[Miami Reef]

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/flukes-–-general-guidelines.224423/Flukes on fish and flukes after dip.

 

[Miami Reef]

Might put one in towards end of quarantine. When I'm observing the fish.

Are you going the copper route?

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

Are you going the copper route?

Yeah, then if I still see symptoms then I'll do hypo afterwards.

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/flukes-–-general-guidelines.224423/Flukes on fish and flukes after dip.

Definitely weren't that big. They were like a little smaller than grains of sand, not white but opaque.

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

Thanks for your help! I really appreciate it.

 

[Miami Reef]

Thanks for your help! I really appreciate it.

Seems like the prazi worked! If anything else arises let us know.

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

Update: Tested nitrates in the qt. It was at 30ppm. I did a 50% water change. And squeezed filter foam out in rodi. And siphoned the poop from bottom of tank.

Salinity is at 1.019 - 1.020 SG

I dosed 1/4 fl oz of copper power in my 10g quarantine. Hanna HR copper checker shows 0.95ppm.

Goal is to get to 2.5 copper in 3 days.

Female clown did a little head shake after I put the copper power in so I am assuming it is already working on something.

I now have my ammonia badge and thermometer in the qt.

Minimizing putting the light on to starve any Dino's or other parasites that use light.

I have Seachem prime Incase things go south like ammonia.

Still waiting on my reef pH buffer.

 

[Miami Reef]

Update: Tested nitrates in the qt. It was at 30ppm. I did a 50% water change. And squeezed filter foam out in rodi. And siphoned the poop from bottom of tank.

Salinity is at 1.019 - 1.020 SG

I dosed 1/4 fl oz of copper power in my 10g quarantine. Hanna HR copper checker shows 0.95ppm.

Goal is to get to 2.5 copper in 3 days.

Female clown did a little head shake after I put the copper power in so I am assuming it is already working on something.

I now have my ammonia badge and thermometer in the qt.

Minimizing putting the light on to starve any Dino's or other parasites that use light.

I have Seachem prime Incase things go south like ammonia.

Still waiting on my reef pH buffer.

You’re doing great. I know Jay Hemdal recommends having 2.5ppm in 24 hours. The wait isn’t needed, although if it makes you feel better it’s ok.

Update: Tested nitrates in the qt. It was at 30ppm. I did a 50% water change. And squeezed filter foam out in rodi. And siphoned the poop from bottom of tank.

Salinity is at 1.019 - 1.020 SG

I dosed 1/4 fl oz of copper power in my 10g quarantine. Hanna HR copper checker shows 0.95ppm.

Goal is to get to 2.5 copper in 3 days.

Female clown did a little head shake after I put the copper power in so I am assuming it is already working on something.

I now have my ammonia badge and thermometer in the qt.

Minimizing putting the light on to starve any Dino's or other parasites that use light.

I have Seachem prime Incase things go south like ammonia.

Still waiting on my reef pH buffer.

did you just set up this QT? Why are nitrates so high? Could it be a false positive from an uncycled tank?

Nitrates won’t harm fish in common levels like ammonia does. And FYI: Prime doesn’t actually work to detoxify ammonia. Reefers tested it. It was a marketing scam. I’d really rely on water changes for ammonia. Luckily you have a very light bioload. I QT 3 tangs and fed pretty heavily with only slight ammonia.

Don’t worry about nitrates. Focus on ammonia. It’s basically impossible to kill fish from high nitrates in a QT (unless you are dumping a whole bottle of pellets) even then, the ammonia will kill them way before nitrates could be produced.

 

[Miami Reef]

Also, you keep mentioning this “clownfish head shaking” thing. I’m wondering if it’s just althe clownfish transitioning into female/ courtship behavior instead of a reaction to anything. I’ll find videos for you.