Ich Again!!!!

MnFish1

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Doesn’t velvet also show white signs? Some fish had nothing on them, I’m wondering if there was something else or if they were sick from when I purchased them. Will the Cupramine also help with velvet? @jayhemdal I haven’t added another dose of the Cupramine as the tang seemed a bit weak, I was thinking of adding it tomorrow, after the first dose it was like the video so I did a 30% water change, should I dose again tomorrow will it help the fish or make it worse?
Velvet can also affect the gills - as well as having 'white spots' - more like a dusting. Cupramine does treat velvet. One key thing - if you do a water change - you have to add back water with the same copper concentration - or you're diluting out the copper.
 
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Velvet can also affect the gills - as well as having 'white spots' - more like a dusting. Cupramine does treat velvet. One key thing - if you do a water change - you have to add back water with the same copper concentration - or you're diluting out the copper.
Yea I figured that but because I was worried the fish was stressed due to the copper I didn’t dose any back in. I’ll check it tonight with a tester to see the copper concentration and dose more tonight.
 

vetteguy53081

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That a UV can keep populations of parasites low? I’m confused by what your asking. What a UV does is make it so the current population of parasites that pass through the UV sterile (under correct flow). I never said it eradicates the population. I also never said it will stop the chances of your fish getting them… just lower them. If your fish is healthy, it will also help with fighting off parasites/infections.
To clarify o the Position of UV as this can be debatable and even disagreeable, a UV unit can reduce the amount of parasites in the water column making it easier to treat an outbreak and reduce its' impact but it will NOT prevent or eliminate disease. Keep in mind, a UV unit kills free floating microorganisms in which ich is not free floating in all stages of its life cycle. The only way to be fully free of ich is to quarantine . . . treat and go fishless in the display tank for 45-60 days.
You also have to factor the life and effectiveness of the UV bulb. UV again, will NOT get rid of an ich infestation that is already ON fish or cure bacterial diseases a fish may already have.
 
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To clarify o the Position of UV as this can be debatable and even disagreeable, a UV unit can reduce the amount of parasites in the water column making it easier to treat an outbreak and reduce its' impact but it will NOT prevent or eliminate disease. Keep in mind, a UV unit kills free floating microorganisms in which ich is not free floating in all stages of its life cycle. The only way to be fully free of ich is to quarantine . . . treat and go fishless in the display tank for 45-60 days.
You also have to factor the life and effectiveness of the UV bulb. UV again, will NOT get rid of an ich infestation that is already ON fish or cure bacterial diseases a fish may already have.
Thank you, I was reading mixed reviews on the UV and this made things clearer.
 

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To clarify o the Position of UV as this can be debatable and even disagreeable, a UV unit can reduce the amount of parasites in the water column making it easier to treat an outbreak and reduce its' impact but it will NOT prevent or eliminate disease. Keep in mind, a UV unit kills free floating microorganisms in which ich is not free floating in all stages of its life cycle. The only way to be fully free of ich is to quarantine . . . treat and go fishless in the display tank for 45-60 days.
You also have to factor the life and effectiveness of the UV bulb. UV again, will NOT get rid of an ich infestation that is already ON fish or cure bacterial diseases a fish may already have.
Not sure what debatable about the fact that UV is effective only at keeping parasites at a lower and at times manageable level. I hope nobody out there has a definitive position that says it can clean the parasites from the tank.
i use it, I think effectively, in an integrated program to manage disease
 
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vetteguy53081

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Not sure what debatable about the fact that UV is effective only at keeping parasites at a lower and at times manageable level. I hope nobody out there has a definitive position that says it can clean the parasites from the tank.
i use it, I think effectively, in an integrated program to manage disease
Thats the part that places others in debate or argument. Nothing is debatable as to what a UV unit does. Just requires clarification.
 
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No, you do not need to remove copper from water that you are disposing of. The amount of copper on a fish that you move to your display is also not a factor, just don’t dump any quarantine water into your display. First, you need to get this issue under control. Then, I would hold the fish for at least 14 days with no treatment before moving them.
Jay
Even though the water is “contaminated” with ICH, it’s safe to simply move the fish from QT to DT directly? I understand that the medication will eliminate ICH but is it still ok? I will do as suggested. Do you suggest any other medication to use in QT for the future or is Copper sufficient you think? Should I continue the API General cure?
API General Cure Freshwater and Saltwater Fish Powder Medication 10-Count Box
 

vetteguy53081

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Even though the water is “contaminated” with ICH, it’s safe to simply move the fish from QT to DT directly? I understand that the medication will eliminate ICH but is it still ok? I will do as suggested. Do you suggest any other medication to use in QT for the future or is Copper sufficient you think? Should I continue the API General cure?
API General Cure Freshwater and Saltwater Fish Powder Medication 10-Count Box
Coppersafe at therapeutic level 2.25-2.5 for full 30 days at 80 degrees and monitor Anmonia level as well as copper level with a reliable copper test kit
 

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To clarify o the Position of UV as this can be debatable and even disagreeable, a UV unit can reduce the amount of parasites in the water column making it easier to treat an outbreak and reduce its' impact but it will NOT prevent or eliminate disease. Keep in mind, a UV unit kills free floating microorganisms in which ich is not free floating in all stages of its life cycle. The only way to be fully free of ich is to quarantine . . . treat and go fishless in the display tank for 45-60 days.
You also have to factor the life and effectiveness of the UV bulb. UV again, will NOT get rid of an ich infestation that is already ON fish or cure bacterial diseases a fish may already have.
Thanks for clarifying, I get lost in my words sometimes. I’m happy you agree though haha, and I’m not alone in the matter . A UV will never prevent an outbreak. It just helps with sterilizing the population that are free floating. And assuming your fish are healthy and you have other means to help (cleaner shrimp and what not) your increasing your fishes chances to fight off parasites
 

Jay Hemdal

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Even though the water is “contaminated” with ICH, it’s safe to simply move the fish from QT to DT directly? I understand that the medication will eliminate ICH but is it still ok? I will do as suggested. Do you suggest any other medication to use in QT for the future or is Copper sufficient you think? Should I continue the API General cure?
API General Cure Freshwater and Saltwater Fish Powder Medication 10-Count Box

I'm not quite sure of the question - you must never move a fish from a QT to a DT when ich is present in either tank (from an incomplete treatment on the QT or a lack of fallow time in a DT).

Once the ich treatment is completed - for example 30 days copper, plus two weeks observation (or use General Cure then) and if the DT has been fishless/fallow for the same period (at 81 degrees F.), the ich will most likely have been cleared from both systems.

Jay
 
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I'm not quite sure of the question - you must never move a fish from a QT to a DT when ich is present in either tank (from an incomplete treatment on the QT or a lack of fallow time in a DT).

Once the ich treatment is completed - for example 30 days copper, plus two weeks observation (or use General Cure then) and if the DT has been fishless/fallow for the same period (at 81 degrees F.), the ich will most likely have been cleared from both systems.

Jay
Thank you I will do that. Also I seem to have brown algae growth on my DT, anything I can do before it gets worse it’s getting back now. I see it on the glass, sand, rocks etc. why is that?
 

Jay Hemdal

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Thank you I will do that. Also I seem to have brown algae growth on my DT, anything I can do before it gets worse it’s getting back now. I see it on the glass, sand, rocks etc. why is that?
Brown algae could be diatoms - they show up in newer tanks, but then, when they use op the available silica, the aglae tends to change to some other species. Algae control is a big topic, has to do with limiting nutrients, using effective grazing animals and having the proper lighting.

Jay
 

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I'm not quite sure of the question - you must never move a fish from a QT to a DT when ich is present in either tank (from an incomplete treatment on the QT or a lack of fallow time in a DT).

Once the ich treatment is completed - for example 30 days copper, plus two weeks observation (or use General Cure then) and if the DT has been fishless/fallow for the same period (at 81 degrees F.), the ich will most likely have been cleared from both systems.

Jay
Jay, are you recommending to raise the DT temp to 81 degrees while going fallow?
 

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Thank you I will do that. Also I seem to have brown algae growth on my DT, anything I can do before it gets worse it’s getting back now. I see it on the glass, sand, rocks etc. why is that?
Brown algae could be diatoms - they show up in newer tanks, but then, when they use op the available silica, the aglae tends to change to some other species. Algae control is a big topic, has to do with limiting nutrients, using effective grazing animals and having the proper lighting.

Jay
I am also seeing a diatom outbreak, I think it has to do with me removing most of my scape to get the fish out causing a mini cycle. I will likely order a big clean up crew to add to the tank and simply add the time that my tank finally went fallow and the time it took to order the CuC to the back end of the fallow period.
 

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I'm not quite sure of the question - you must never move a fish from a QT to a DT when ich is present in either tank (from an incomplete treatment on the QT or a lack of fallow time in a DT).

Once the ich treatment is completed - for example 30 days copper, plus two weeks observation (or use General Cure then) and if the DT has been fishless/fallow for the same period (at 81 degrees F.), the ich will most likely have been cleared from both systems.

Jay
Are you saying 30 days at 81 degrees will suffice for a fallow tank that was previously diagnosed with ich present?

I thought.... minimum was 45 days at 81 degrees correct me if i'm wrong.
 
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Jay Hemdal

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Are you saying 30 days at 81 degrees will suffice for a fallow tank that was previously diagnosed with ich present?

I thought.... minimum was 45 days at 81 degrees correct me if i'm wrong.

Sorry, no - in the QT, 30 days of copper, followed by 14 days observation (or prazi) for the sick fish equals 45 days that the DT would have been fallow...the idea here is that the treatment for the sick fish and the fallow period, run at the same time in the DT can match up. Remember though, that 45 days fallow at 81 F. is the MINIMUM time, and unless there are some circumstances that require that short of a time, I prefer to wait longer.

Jay
 

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Sorry, no - in the QT, 30 days of copper, followed by 14 days observation (or prazi) for the sick fish equals 45 days that the DT would have been fallow...the idea here is that the treatment for the sick fish and the fallow period, run at the same time in the DT can match up. Remember though, that 45 days fallow at 81 F. is the MINIMUM time, and unless there are some circumstances that require that short of a time, I prefer to wait longer.

Jay
Thank you for clarifying
 
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Sorry, no - in the QT, 30 days of copper, followed by 14 days observation (or prazi) for the sick fish equals 45 days that the DT would have been fallow...the idea here is that the treatment for the sick fish and the fallow period, run at the same time in the DT can match up. Remember though, that 45 days fallow at 81 F. is the MINIMUM time, and unless there are some circumstances that require that short of a time, I prefer to wait longer.

Jay
Thank you for all your help.
 
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I am also seeing a diatom outbreak, I think it has to do with me removing most of my scape to get the fish out causing a mini cycle. I will likely order a big clean up crew to add to the tank and simply add the time that my tank finally went fallow and the time it took to order the CuC to the back end of the fallow period.
Currently I have the lights off since yesterday, I plan on keeping the lights of two more days and then doing a water change. I don’t have any corals so the light won’t affect the fish too much as we have natural lighting via the windows but will let you know how it goes. I’ve had luck with it in the past.
 
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Sorry, no - in the QT, 30 days of copper, followed by 14 days observation (or prazi) for the sick fish equals 45 days that the DT would have been fallow...the idea here is that the treatment for the sick fish and the fallow period, run at the same time in the DT can match up. Remember though, that 45 days fallow at 81 F. is the MINIMUM time, and unless there are some circumstances that require that short of a time, I prefer to wait longer.

Jay
Hey Jay, sorry don’t mean to bother you but could you take a look at this blue tang I have in QT, when I got him his fins were slightly beat up which are healing now, same thing with his scalpels near the tail but I saw this white line across him and some on his face, I often do see some color changes on him he goes from light to dark but I just want to make sure he’s healthy. Also this other fish, he changes colors too but will keep this white spotted avatar for long periods sometime, what’s the deal with that?
 

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