Mixing station overkill?

MTsquared

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Currently in the process of building out my mixing station as I’ve had some issues with corals dying recently and it’s just time after upgrading to a larger tank. Nothing fancy just functional brute trash cans on wood stand. The mixing station is located in the small unfinished storage area of my basement. The remaining unfinished storage has hot water heater, 2 hvac units, fridge, and random junk people acquire over the years. The remainder of the basement is completely finished and dry with carpet. Here’s the question - I bought these water heater tubs (see picture) as an additional fail safe in the event the float switch malfunctions so I don’t end up with water everywhere. I would run the drains from the tub to the floor drain in the unfinished storage where I will also run the waste line from the RO unit. Problem is that I will have to get a little more creative on plumbing the bottom of the mixing station. Is it overkill to have these or do you think they are necessary?
423DF087-167C-4CEB-AB34-C6A5A2101069.jpeg
 

slyfox29

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Currently in the process of building out my mixing station as I’ve had some issues with corals dying recently and it’s just time after upgrading to a larger tank. Nothing fancy just functional brute trash cans on wood stand. The mixing station is located in the small unfinished storage area of my basement. The remaining unfinished storage has hot water heater, 2 hvac units, fridge, and random junk people acquire over the years. The remainder of the basement is completely finished and dry with carpet. Here’s the question - I bought these water heater tubs (see picture) as an additional fail safe in the event the float switch malfunctions so I don’t end up with water everywhere. I would run the drains from the tub to the floor drain in the unfinished storage where I will also run the waste line from the RO unit. Problem is that I will have to get a little more creative on plumbing the bottom of the mixing station. Is it overkill to have these or do you think they are necessary?
423DF087-167C-4CEB-AB34-C6A5A2101069.jpeg
Overkill can never hurt! I have a similar setup but just the Brute cans and never had any leaking issues.
 

Brett S

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In addition to a float switch to tell my apex to shut off the RODI filter when the reservoir is full I also have this float valve on the RODI line that feeds my reservoir:

FF83F07F-9212-43C6-9EEE-543CC4CC2EAC.jpeg


It’s installed a little higher than the float switch, so normally the float switch cuts off the water before the float valve comes into play, but it actually saved me just a couple of days ago. I have a circulation pump in the reservoir and the cord for the pump got moved and pressed against the float switch preventing it from triggering, so the only reason I didn’t have a flood was because that float valve stopped the water when it got too high.
 
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Currently in the process of building out my mixing station as I’ve had some issues with corals dying recently and it’s just time after upgrading to a larger tank. Nothing fancy just functional brute trash cans on wood stand. The mixing station is located in the small unfinished storage area of my basement. The remaining unfinished storage has hot water heater, 2 hvac units, fridge, and random junk people acquire over the years. The remainder of the basement is completely finished and dry with carpet. Here’s the question - I bought these water heater tubs (see picture) as an additional fail safe in the event the float switch malfunctions so I don’t end up with water everywhere. I would run the drains from the tub to the floor drain in the unfinished storage where I will also run the waste line from the RO unit. Problem is that I will have to get a little more creative on plumbing the bottom of the mixing station. Is it overkill to have these or do you think they are necessary?
423DF087-167C-4CEB-AB34-C6A5A2101069.jpeg

Not overkill.

However, that is a lot of shims on the left front leg :D
 

Fishyfish22

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this is awesome, good job!

the only reservations/worries are the large number of shims and the metal in the float switch. Watch out for shims sliding out from how many there are, and from the metal or rust getting into your reservoir water.
 

Brett S

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the metal in the float switch

I think that’s my float valve that you’re concerned about. And I agree that it’s not ideal, but unfortunately I wasn’t able to find an all plastic one that would fit where I wanted it. In any case, the one in the picture is nearly 5 years old now and it’s starting to show some signs of corrosion, but it’s not too bad. It doesn’t spend too much time in the water since I start emptying the reservoir just about as soon as it’s filled.
 
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MTsquared

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Not overkill.

However, that is a lot of shims on the left front leg :D
this is awesome, good job!

the only reservations/worries are the large number of shims and the metal in the float switch. Watch out for shims sliding out from how many there are, and from the metal or rust getting into your reservoir water.
Yeah the shims are not ideal however the cuts were just a touch off from Home Depot and due to the gentle slope of the room toward the floor drain I am left with a wobbly stand without them. Open to any other ideas or suggestions on how to fix without using all the shims before I proceed any further.

I would keep the water heater pans. You could put them in the back and plumb them through the stand to eliminate the piping in front where it may get in the way.
Good idea to have them come out the back.
 

Brett S

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Open to any other ideas or suggestions on how to fix without using all the shims before I proceed any further.

One solid piece of wood would probably be better than 6 shims. Maybe get a small piece of a 1x4? Alternately, maybe lower the leg a little and put a block or something at the top where it’s less visible and less likely to be kicked. Or just trim the other three legs.
 
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MTsquared

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One solid piece of wood would probably be better than 6 shims. Maybe get a small piece of a 1x4? Alternately, maybe lower the leg a little and put a block or something at the top where it’s less visible and less likely to be kicked. Or just trim the other three legs.
Good idea on the 1x4 or something similar. Lowering the leg and trimming the other legs is not an option. I will adjust with a solid piece of wood underneath to limit any potential issues.

The main issue you guys have with the shims is that they can get knocked out of place? I figured when one or both Brutes were full with water that the weight would prevent that from happening?
 

Pntbll687

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Good idea on the 1x4 or something similar. Lowering the leg and trimming the other legs is not an option. I will adjust with a solid piece of wood underneath to limit any potential issues.

The main issue you guys have with the shims is that they can get knocked out of place? I figured when one or both Brutes were full with water that the weight would prevent that from happening?
You could just cut the shims off and be done with it

Can that pump self prime? If it can, you just plumb through the side of the brute and then add some pvc pointing down to the bottom. If not, you'll need some creativity.
 
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MTsquared

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You could just cut the shims off and be done with it

Can that pump self prime? If it can, you just plumb through the side of the brute and then add some pvc pointing down to the bottom. If not, you'll need some creativity.
I'm not sure about the priming on the pump? It is an Iwaki with Japanese motor.
 

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I just did a similar setup, draining out the back to a sump pit. Check out my thread i started. Good luck!
 

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In addition to a float switch to tell my apex to shut off the RODI filter when the reservoir is full I also have this float valve on the RODI line that feeds my reservoir:

FF83F07F-9212-43C6-9EEE-543CC4CC2EAC.jpeg


It’s installed a little higher than the float switch, so normally the float switch cuts off the water before the float valve comes into play, but it actually saved me just a couple of days ago. I have a circulation pump in the reservoir and the cord for the pump got moved and pressed against the float switch preventing it from triggering, so the only reason I didn’t have a flood was because that float valve stopped the water when it got too high.
Just curious what are you using to turn your ro/di off? solenoid ?
 

Brett S

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Just curious what are you using to turn your ro/di off? solenoid ?

Yes, I have solenoids controlled by my apex. I actually tried to build it as safely as possible, so there are two solenoids that need to turn on for water to flow. One before the RODI and one after. That way, even if one of the solenoids were to fail the other would still shut off the water. I go into a lot of detail about how I have this set up in this post and the few after it in my build thread:

 

SteveMM62Reef

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I have 35 Gallons and 45 Gallons Grey Brute Containers on the Brute Dollies. I can just roll the Containers over to the Laundry Sink, where my RO/DI Station is. I have a Small Preset Heater, and an Internal Filter, to move the water around to mix. I do not like my present filter though, not strong enough to pump the water up. I liked my old Duetto‘s, as they would pump the water up into the tank. I wouldn’t put a Bulkhead fitting in the bottom of the Brute, too much chance of the container failing there. BTW The Dollies are overloaded, no failures in over ten year, I don’t get crazy with them while moving them. Do not get White Brutes, they let light in and you will have growth, inside.

image.jpg image.jpg
 

AgSoldier47

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Never to much overkill with water management. Specially where by the sounds of it you can plumb that right into a drain!
 

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