Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?
- Thread starter mcarroll
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Wow! Are you starting back up? Are you done?
Sorry, meant for @Jonreefer
Bigfudge
See, what had happened was...
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Bigfudge
See, what had happened was...
Also found some patches on the sand at the back of the tank. The following are samples of that:
Ordered the Hanna Si checker (low range) and going to order some Sponge Excel and start dosing when it gets here. I’ll prob order some garf grunge too. I’m sure my biodiversity is no where near where it’s suppose to be.
Ordered the Hanna Si checker (low range) and going to order some Sponge Excel and start dosing when it gets here. I’ll prob order some garf grunge too. I’m sure my biodiversity is no where near where it’s suppose to be.
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Hello everyone,
I am new here on this forum. I started my tank 2 months ago. i have a red sea reefer 450.
I started this tank with 40 kg of dry stone and 20 kg of live stone. I also started with natural seawater.
After one month i had a lot of "brown algea with air bubbles" some people told me i had dino's. so i bought dino x and reduced my light. they also say to put phosphate to 0 and add the dino x. i used a reduced quantity because i have zoa's and montipora in my aquarium.
After three weeks everything was gone so i dosed still 2 dosings of dino x, and after everything was gone i started to bring my phosphate back to 0,04 . after a few days my aquarium is again starting to get brown algeas (i think) but now i dont know what to do anymore, are this algeas i also had cyano bacteries.
I have 2 maxpect gyre 250 in my aquarium, also an jebao 4000liter pump and a Powerfilter.
I use the DSR EZ methode. i have an old microscope and i see this under it. i post pics of all.
I am new here on this forum. I started my tank 2 months ago. i have a red sea reefer 450.
I started this tank with 40 kg of dry stone and 20 kg of live stone. I also started with natural seawater.
After one month i had a lot of "brown algea with air bubbles" some people told me i had dino's. so i bought dino x and reduced my light. they also say to put phosphate to 0 and add the dino x. i used a reduced quantity because i have zoa's and montipora in my aquarium.
After three weeks everything was gone so i dosed still 2 dosings of dino x, and after everything was gone i started to bring my phosphate back to 0,04 . after a few days my aquarium is again starting to get brown algeas (i think) but now i dont know what to do anymore, are this algeas i also had cyano bacteries.
I have 2 maxpect gyre 250 in my aquarium, also an jebao 4000liter pump and a Powerfilter.
I use the DSR EZ methode. i have an old microscope and i see this under it. i post pics of all.
Jason mack
Monti madness
@taricha @dwest any help here please ..!Hello everyone,
I am new here on this forum. I started my tank 2 months ago. i have a red sea reefer 450.
I started this tank with 40 kg of dry stone and 20 kg of live stone. I also started with natural seawater.
After one month i had a lot of "brown algea with air bubbles" some people told me i had dino's. so i bought dino x and reduced my light. they also say to put phosphate to 0 and add the dino x. i used a reduced quantity because i have zoa's and montipora in my aquarium.
After three weeks everything was gone so i dosed still 2 dosings of dino x, and after everything was gone i started to bring my phosphate back to 0,04 . after a few days my aquarium is again starting to get brown algeas (i think) but now i dont know what to do anymore, are this algeas i also had cyano bacteries.
I have 2 maxpect gyre 250 in my aquarium, also an jebao 4000liter pump and a Powerfilter.
I use the DSR EZ methode. i have an old microscope and i see this under it. i post pics of all.
Ross Petersen
Well-Known Member
371 pages on this thread, impressive. I'm new in this reef game - a high school chemistry teacher seeking to do things tactfully on the first go. Striving to reduce disease introduction and ensure balance and biodiversity early on to mitigate things like dinoflagellate blooms.
After reading lots of this forum and watching a zillion YouTube videos, I'm trying to discern the best approach for starting a tank. I'm going to set up a Red Sea Peninsula 500. Seeking advice. Do the below points resonate as wise measures to promote and sustain biodiversity in a new tank, and reduce the risk of a dinoflagellate (and other) blooms?
1. Dry, dead rock (no disease risk, limited excess organic runoff) - the downside being no biodiversity.
2. Facilitate cycling by adding healthy bacteria. A cocktail approach, or just something like Dr. Tims?
3. Moderate or high water flow
4. No or little light for the first month or so during cycling
5. Add various microscopic organisms (e.g., isopods, towards the end of cycling when livestock are added, to increase biodiversity, food quality, etc.)
6. Run a skimmer and carbon filtration from day 1... but limit or avoid other nutrient reduction methods (e.g., GFO)
7. Run a UV filter from day 1 (uncertain on this one)... but I suspect a low flow-rate could control dinos etc.
8. Corals before fish may be a good approach to promote chemical stability and microscopic diversity (super uncertain on this one, especially if a disease pops up in fish)
9. Bare bottom is best in the long-term for reducing algae, dinoflagellate, and other microscopic blooms but tough at the beginning to support microbial biodiversity (and it looks a bit whack)
10. Maintain pH, calcium, and alkalinity in the recommended ranges by dosing. Establish these parameters first, then maintain via water changes until a healthy livestock is established, at which point - dosing pumps are a good option.
11. Snails during the cycling phase can be helpful
12. Consideration for running a 10-micron filter from day 1 to catch any dinos during the cycling process
And the obvious ones like regular water changes with RO/DI, long quarantines, balanced feeding, etc.
Any thoughts *or redirection* would be much appreciated!
Kind thanks,
Ross
After reading lots of this forum and watching a zillion YouTube videos, I'm trying to discern the best approach for starting a tank. I'm going to set up a Red Sea Peninsula 500. Seeking advice. Do the below points resonate as wise measures to promote and sustain biodiversity in a new tank, and reduce the risk of a dinoflagellate (and other) blooms?
1. Dry, dead rock (no disease risk, limited excess organic runoff) - the downside being no biodiversity.
2. Facilitate cycling by adding healthy bacteria. A cocktail approach, or just something like Dr. Tims?
3. Moderate or high water flow
4. No or little light for the first month or so during cycling
5. Add various microscopic organisms (e.g., isopods, towards the end of cycling when livestock are added, to increase biodiversity, food quality, etc.)
6. Run a skimmer and carbon filtration from day 1... but limit or avoid other nutrient reduction methods (e.g., GFO)
7. Run a UV filter from day 1 (uncertain on this one)... but I suspect a low flow-rate could control dinos etc.
8. Corals before fish may be a good approach to promote chemical stability and microscopic diversity (super uncertain on this one, especially if a disease pops up in fish)
9. Bare bottom is best in the long-term for reducing algae, dinoflagellate, and other microscopic blooms but tough at the beginning to support microbial biodiversity (and it looks a bit whack)
10. Maintain pH, calcium, and alkalinity in the recommended ranges by dosing. Establish these parameters first, then maintain via water changes until a healthy livestock is established, at which point - dosing pumps are a good option.
11. Snails during the cycling phase can be helpful
12. Consideration for running a 10-micron filter from day 1 to catch any dinos during the cycling process
And the obvious ones like regular water changes with RO/DI, long quarantines, balanced feeding, etc.
Any thoughts *or redirection* would be much appreciated!
Kind thanks,
Ross
Well thought out!
I would offer a couple of things
#2...I think multiple sources of bacteria is fine but not required. One source would be a piece of live rock from a thriving, trusted tank.
#4...I don't think that's necessary but certainly ok to do.
#6...don't "avoid" nutrient control, just do it wisely. That is be very diligent to not let your parameters fall to zero. Keep NO3 2.5-5 and PO4 0.03-0.06 and not ANY lower. Nutrient control can become necessary if levels get high enough to be detrimental. Your corals will tell you what level that is.
#7...I'll be interested to see what people have to say about this.
#8...good idea. If QT'ing your fish that should not be a concern.
#9...true but it severely limits your fish choices....not something I'm willing to do unless I just absolutely have to.
Short term:
1. Run GAC in your system to help reduce toxins. Replace weekly.
2. Get and keep measurable nitrates and phosphates. We usually target about 10 ppm nitrates and 0.1 ppm phosphates.
3. Your dinos will go into the water column. Do run UV to help eradicate. Use 1 watt UV minimum per every 3 gallons of system water, run from DT back to DT. Run 1-3 tank volumes of water through the UV per hour. Blasting rocks with a turkey blaster will help.
I think amphidinium. Sounds to me that you are doing the right thing. I eventually removed almost all my sand. Keep adding silicates and have some patience! Good luck.Also found some patches on the sand at the back of the tank. The following are samples of that:
Ordered the Hanna Si checker (low range) and going to order some Sponge Excel and start dosing when it gets here. I’ll prob order some garf grunge too. I’m sure my biodiversity is no where near where it’s suppose to be.
mx36
Community Member
Had been battling ostreopsis for a while finally got rid of it with the help of a large UV. No it seems I have hair algae and possibly another strain of dinos with a bit of cyno mixed in. It all looks similar to hair algae doesn't syphon out easily, is growing on rocks and sand bed. Has a mix of green/red coloring. Any ideas on how to handle all this? Haven't done a water change since December in fear the ostreopsis comes back. Current parameters are a little low right now as I have been gone the last week.
NO4 - .04
N03 - 2.5
Ca - 395
Kh - 7
Mg - 1275
NO4 - .04
N03 - 2.5
Ca - 395
Kh - 7
Mg - 1275
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Prorocentrum. These can be pushed into water column by cutting light time. Drop by a couple of hours a day. If you get to zero hrs, and the dinos still stay in place do a short - up to 48hr blackout. This pushes any cells capable of swimming into water (and UV).
Yep. Amphidinium and the round cells are either coolia (or something rarer).
Jason mack
Monti madness
What size is your UV and your system and how do you have your UV plumbed?Had been battling ostreopsis for a while finally got rid of it with the help of a large UV. No it seems I have hair algae and possibly another strain of dinos with a bit of cyno mixed in. It all looks similar to hair algae doesn't syphon out easily, is growing on rocks and sand bed. Has a mix of green/red coloring. Any ideas on how to handle all this? Haven't done a water change since December in fear the ostreopsis comes back. Current parameters are a little low right now as I have been gone the last week.
NO4 - .04
N03 - 2.5
Ca - 395
Kh - 7
Mg - 1275
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