Do you clean your RODI system once a year?

BRS

Do you clean your RODI system? If so, what do you clean with?

  • I clean with soap.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • I clean with bleach.

    Votes: 4 7.8%
  • I clean with soap and bleach.

    Votes: 2 3.9%
  • I rarely clean.

    Votes: 7 13.7%
  • I never clean.

    Votes: 38 74.5%

  • Total voters
    51

Reefahholic

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Do you clean your RODI system? If you do, what do you clean and how often do you clean it? What products do you use?

For those that don’t clean, have you ever had experienced any harmful effects?

Thanks for participating. :)
 

AJsReef

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I wipe out the inside of the canisters with a clean paper towel for each canister. Inspect the O-rings and lube with a dab of Vasoline and reinstall. Shouldn't need to do anything more than that.
Fwiw, Vasoline on rubber O-rings is not a best practice and can do more damage than good. Something like Dow-111 would be preferred.
 
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Reefahholic

Reefahholic

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I’ll admit, I rarely clean mine. I do lube my O-rings because they become brittle over time. Keeps the seals healthy. Same thing I lube my reactor O-rings with.

A95D214F-ACC5-411A-94FB-164D2D236905.jpeg
 

JCTReefer

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I’ll admit, I rarely clean mine. I do lube my O-rings because they become brittle over time. Keeps the seals healthy. Same thing I lube my reactor O-rings with.

A95D214F-ACC5-411A-94FB-164D2D236905.jpeg
Exactly what I use on O rings. A tube of this stuff will last a lifetime. Lol
 

zalick

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Cleaning entire unit is simple. Remove all filters including RO membrane. Tablespoon of bleach in first chamber. Run it for awhile. Can't remember the time. Not long. Spectrapure has a great step by step.

I do it yearly.
 

redfishbluefish

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What I want to know is. What’s the Best/easiest way to clean your Ro/Di reservoir? Like the Norwesco style tall cylindrical ones. Bleach soak/scrub or Vinegar soak/scrub? Then flush with fresh water. Never attempted to clean mine.

That holding tank is for a drinking water system and should not be used for your DI portion of your system. I've got to believe you go through DI resin very quickly. The reason is that it is filled on demand, and every "demand" (start-up) produces TDS breakthrough. So the water in that tank has some TDS. This is what makes RO water drinkable (have some taste, and not be flat). I would highly suggest installing a tee valve after the membrane and before the tank and have that tee'd line go to your DI resin. Flip the valve when you want to make fish water, and flip it back when done to have drinking water.
 

JCTReefer

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That holding tank is for a drinking water system and should not be used for your DI portion of your system. I've got to believe you go through DI resin very quickly. The reason is that it is filled on demand, and every "demand" (start-up) produces TDS breakthrough. So the water in that tank has some TDS. This is what makes RO water drinkable (have some taste, and not be flat). I would highly suggest installing a tee valve after the membrane and before the tank and have that tee'd line go to your DI resin. Flip the valve when you want to make fish water, and flip it back when done to have drinking water.
I’m a bit confused. That’s okay though. Haha!
I do have a T valve installed after the membrane and before the first DI stage. For TDS creep. I also backflush the membrane for 5-10 minutes before and after use. I also turn the T-valve and let run for a few minutes before diverting it through DI. I was referring to cleaning the reservoir that holds fresh RO/Di water. The holding tank/reservoir I use is a 65 gallon HDPE tank. Like this. I don’t use it for drinking purposes.

B47F005C-2857-425E-80AE-552A71689870.jpeg 9577A4E2-D8BD-4BD5-8A46-5BE56C80C959.png 31608BD6-8264-4E8D-BBC6-A8C6A603D166.jpeg
 
Last edited:
BRS

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