I do auto water changes with a DOS. Changes (if any), are very slow due to this.
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Again I "think" an air stone doesn't exchange while rising in the water !
Pick a salt that is closest to what your shooting for and then make your tank parameters match the salt. Then water changes help stability. Either that or adjust your salt mix to match your tanks parameters before water changes.Hey All ..
So curious about something ... in an ongoing effort to keep my #'s rock steady, stable and consistent, along with CONSISTENT bi-weekly 15% water changes on a 125 gal tank (145 gallon all total with sump)....
... when I am doing the water changes naturally the salt mix I use (I use the regular instant ocean) does not have the exact same #'s across the board as I keep my system running at.
So everytime I do a change every other week, my numbers flucuate a bit and I am back to chasing #'s, water for calcium to fall down a bit to get to my desired #, THEN start to dose like I used to and normally do for 2 weeks until my next water change .. then repeat and have #'s all over the place again.
So I am wondering how everyone keeps their #'s stable when you are dosing, and then do a water change and cause your numbers to jump a bit ... do you just dose right away after you do a water change to get the #'s back up to where they were ? What about if you keep your alk at 8.3, you do a water change and it jumps to "9.0" ... obviously you dont keep the dosing pump running for the alk or it will make the #'s all out of whack again ..
You can see what I am getting at and wondering .. how you manage these stable #s with consistent water changes
Great post as i’m Asking myself the same questions. I just started the Fauna Marin balling light, and a 10% change every 2 weeks on my tank is enough to elevate my #’s....I am dropping my Alk, because my Nitrate and P04 are low, so I want the Alk to therefor be around 7.
Do you really think that changing 15% of your water will change your parameters significantly? Seems it would be easiest to buy a salt closer to your desired parameters.Hey All ..
So curious about something ... in an ongoing effort to keep my #'s rock steady, stable and consistent, along with CONSISTENT bi-weekly 15% water changes on a 125 gal tank (145 gallon all total with sump)....
... when I am doing the water changes naturally the salt mix I use (I use the regular instant ocean) does not have the exact same #'s across the board as I keep my system running at.
So everytime I do a change every other week, my numbers flucuate a bit and I am back to chasing #'s, water for calcium to fall down a bit to get to my desired #, THEN start to dose like I used to and normally do for 2 weeks until my next water change .. then repeat and have #'s all over the place again.
So I am wondering how everyone keeps their #'s stable when you are dosing, and then do a water change and cause your numbers to jump a bit ... do you just dose right away after you do a water change to get the #'s back up to where they were ? What about if you keep your alk at 8.3, you do a water change and it jumps to "9.0" ... obviously you dont keep the dosing pump running for the alk or it will make the #'s all out of whack again ..
You can see what I am getting at and wondering .. how you manage these stable #s with consistent water changes
Great post as i’m Asking myself the same questions. I just started the Fauna Marin balling light, and a 10% change every 2 weeks on my tank is enough to elevate my #’s....
My question here, i’m also struggling to get my No3 & Po4 levels up a bit (for real ), what’s the science behind keeping KH at 7 when that’s the case (low No3 Po4)?
I bought Red Sea blue bucket never got close to 8.5 dkh. I usually got 6.5-7 and 390-400 cal when mixed at 1.026 so I had to boost with two part. I may have gotten a bad batch. I bought small sizes of tropic Marin pro and Fritz RPM to test the levels tropic Marin was close still ale is around 7. I wanted 8. Going to test my first batch of fritz this eveningPersonally I would find a salt mix that has parameters near what you want, then just target that. For example, Red Sea blue bucket has around 8.5 dKh, 425 ppm Ca and 1,250 ppm Mg. If the water you're taking out of your tank has the exact same carbonate, calcium and magnesium, there's no need to adjust anything.
I bought Red Sea blue bucket never got close to 8.5 dkh. I usually got 6.5-7 and 390-400 cal when mixed at 1.026 so I had to boost with two part. I may have gotten a bad batch. I bought small sizes of tropic Marin pro and Fritz RPM to test the levels tropic Marin was close still ale is around 7. I wanted 8. Going to test my first batch of fritz this evening
I always match the ph, but never checked the alk. Guess I should start.
I wonder about this too. For my new build I chose to try LiveAquaria salt because it mixes closest to where I will want my parameters to be. IO is cheaper, but the Alkalinity is pretty high. Seems like a lot of salts have quite high Alkalinity. I get some are high to replace used buffering capacity with small water changes, but for a tank fill that is just too high for my system.
It was always my understanding from things I have read from people who know way more then me ... is that if you have low nutrients, you want your alk to be lower as well. My p04 and nitrate has always been low in my system (heck I even dose p04 sometimes) so I lowered my alk, and things started coloring up nicely and tank looks its best.Great post as i’m Asking myself the same questions. I just started the Fauna Marin balling light, and a 10% change every 2 weeks on my tank is enough to elevate my #’s....
My question here, i’m also struggling to get my No3 & Po4 levels up a bit (for real ), what’s the science behind keeping KH at 7 when that’s the case (low No3 Po4)?
It was. enough to not have things rock steady and stable, consistent like I want.Do you really think that changing 15% of your water will change your parameters significantly? Seems it would be easiest to buy a salt closer to your desired parameters.