Self Leveling Epoxy

[Red_Beard]

I picked up some counter top epoxy at Lowe’s and after carefully reading the destructions found that the product remains semi-fluid. So it will dent and displace if you set heavy objects (like an aquarium) on it. Being that I want to use it to level up the top of my stand that could be problematic.
I was just wondering if any of you have had any experience setting a tank on an epoxy surface and if so what brand did you use and how did it turn out? How has it held up over time? Thanks!

 

[Sleepydoc]

There are various kinds of epoxy - I’m pretty sure there is an epoxy that will work under an aquarium.

As far as the self-leveling part goes, I would focus on leveling the stand before you put the epoxy on. If the discrepancy is small enough for the epoxy to fix it, it’s probably small enough that it won’t matter for the tank anyway.

 

[Jon Fishman]

I used 2-part epoxy on my stand, but also rubber mat under the tank. It’s in my build thread, but I agree with above

 

[Red_Beard]

Thanks guys, that walnut slab is gorgeous btw!
My current top is 2x6s pocket holed together. I don’t have a planner or a joiner but it came pretty close. Over all there is about an 1/8th maybe a hair more deviation after sanding as much as i dare. Some of the pocket hole screws went in a little deep and after removing a bit of material the tips are popping through. :/ I think I’ve found one that will work, has good reviews too. It’s the pro marine 2 part.

 

[Sleepydoc]

Thanks guys, that walnut slab is gorgeous btw!
My current top is 2x6s pocket holed together. I don’t have a planner or a joiner but it came pretty close. Over all there is about an 1/8th maybe a hair more deviation after sanding as much as i dare. Some of the pocket hole screws went in a little deep and after removing a bit of material the tips are popping through. :/ I think I’ve found one that will work, has good reviews too. It’s the pro marine 2 part.

What size tank/top? That’s a fair amount of discrepancy to level. A few thoughts-
- if you glued the top the pocket hole screws are redundant now that the glue has dried and you can safely remove them.
- if you have a router, you can make a leveling jig to flatten out the surface. It’s more work and will make a lot of sawdust, but you can get a flat surface.
When gluing up a flat panel, a biscuit jointer works really well to keep the boards aligned with each other and to prevent the problems you have. If you don’t have one of those, a router with a slot cutting bit works, too.
- if it’s out of level on the top it will be out of level on the bottom and you need to make sure it’s securely fastened to the stand, too.
- you can also get pre-made pine panels from Home Depot in various lengths and widths. They would probably work better and look better than the 2x6s you have now.
- another option is ¾” plywood, either a single sheet or 2 sheets laminated together. You can make some edge banding to dress up the edges if you like, or even iron on edge veneer.

Basically, I’m not sure what you have will make the best top as it is right now, and it may be worth changing before you have everything complete. For reference, my top is 2 pieces of ¾” MDF glued together covered with laminate. Probably about the same strength as 1” of wood or plywood.

 

[Red_Beard]

What size tank/top? That’s a fair amount of discrepancy to level. A few thoughts-
- if you glued the top the pocket hole screws are redundant now that the glue has dried and you can safely remove them.
- if you have a router, you can make a leveling jig to flatten out the surface. It’s more work and will make a lot of sawdust, but you can get a flat surface.
When gluing up a flat panel, a biscuit jointer works really well to keep the boards aligned with each other and to prevent the problems you have. If you don’t have one of those, a router with a slot cutting bit works, too.
- if it’s out of level on the top it will be out of level on the bottom and you need to make sure it’s securely fastened to the stand, too.
- you can also get pre-made pine panels from Home Depot in various lengths and widths. They would probably work better and look better than the 2x6s you have now.
- another option is ¾” plywood, either a single sheet or 2 sheets laminated together. You can make some edge banding to dress up the edges if you like, or even iron on edge veneer.

Basically, I’m not sure what you have will make the best top as it is right now, and it may be worth changing before you have everything complete. For reference, my top is 2 pieces of ¾” MDF glued together covered with laminate. Probably about the same strength as 1” of wood or plywood.

It is only a framed 75 with a 48x18 base sitting on a 62x22 top so it's not going to be as big a deal i hope. Most of the issue is crowning so it isnt the whole span just pockets.
All of your points are 100% valid and I truely am grateful for the reply. I am going to have to make one of those leveling jigs because the wife wants a matching engagement center. But... i got a little ahead of myself and had already screwed the top down about every 6 inches the whole way around and filled the holes with silicon and enamel paint before i got top thinking about the top. When i ever do it again this is definitely NOT the way I'd do it. I'm just trying to clean up a soup sandwich. (Without taking the bread off) All the other stands i did i did use 3/4 birch ply and trim moulding on the edge but wanted a little ledge top set stuff on while feeding testing ext.

 

[Sleepydoc]

Well, it probably won't work for the top you have now, but here's a youtube video of the jig I mentioned:


I originally saw it in a woodsmith magazine, but I can't find the original article right now.

 

[tripdad]

An alternative repair is to " bed" the tank rim in a medium that hardens. In other words place a layer of a catalyzed epoxy in a line where the tank rim will sit. Cover it with wax paper and carefully lower the tank,empty, down onto it gently. These tanks bear all the weight on the rim so that " lip" is all that needs to be supported and level. I think your doing a tile or similar treatment on the exposed ledge so that would hide the repair. Make sure nothing hits the bottom pane on the tank, only the rim. Once dry lift the tank,wax paper keeps it from bonding, remove wax paper and reinstall tank. I have done this with an Allglass brand 75, worked well. Even a masons leveling compound, floor leveler will work. It just has to dry hard.

 

[Red_Beard]

Well, i ordered that epoxy, going to give it a try this weekend. I will try to remember to update this thread with an outcome for anyone following along, thanks again for your input!

 

[Red_Beard]

Update:
The ProMarine epoxy seems to have worked great. Very solid surface like i set a sheet of lexan on the top.

This was my first ever epoxy attempt so i definitely am not a pro by any means. For anyone wanting to try this, it would have been nice to do a test piece first, but wasnt too hard to learn. I did end up with a few minor blemishes from doing too thin of a seal coat and working a couple bubbles to late in the cure process.

(The white spots are sawdust, just need to wipeoff)
The edges also turned out better than i thought for the inverted contour i had on.

I will update again after ive had the tank set up full weight on it for a while.

 

[Red_Beard]

Tank is loaded up, half full of water and so far the pro marine is awesome. Made it really easy to level up.
Will update again in a few months or so.

 

[tripdad]

I'm glad it's working out for you. I hope it stays good and solid for years to come. Set up looks nice, new tanks are fun.

 

[Red_Beard]

Almosta month update: looks good, no sag. I think pro marine is a winner.

Hopefully this will help somebody!

 

[Red_Beard]

I was just flipping through my build thread reminiscing on how much fun this was to make and thought I better give this one last update posterity’s sake .

Final update in case anyone was interested in longer term results: no sag, imprinting, scratches, hazing, yellowing or any other issue to speak of. Pro marine was a good choice and if asked I would recommend it.

 

[salty joe]

If you ever pour epoxy again, run a torch over the uncured epoxy, it will pop all the air bubbles. I also leveled a stand with epoxy and it was fine.

 

[Red_Beard]

If you ever pour epoxy again, run a torch over the uncured epoxy, it will pop all the air bubbles. I also leveled a stand with epoxy and it was fine.

I did, works great until it starts to set then it just leaves a crater. My seal coat was too thin and left a few air pockets that didn't get filled. Great tip though as the torch is like magic for bubbles.

 

[naterealbig]

What did you use to contain the epoxy within the edges of the stand top, as you were pouring it?

 

[Red_Beard]

I used masking tape on the back edge and to dam the holes for the overflow. The front and sides i just flooded and let it flow over the edge. It self leveled to 1/8th inch. One thing worth noting is that the masking tape worked well and came up easy enough, but did cause a small raised edge (sanded down easy) and the front edge sagged a bit where it rounded over. Let me know if you have any questions. Watch a few you tube vids if you've never done it, it isn't hard to do, but there are a few tricks that really help make it pretty and easy.

 

[Glauber]

I m going to follow i also need to use it

 

[naterealbig]

I used masking tape on the back edge and to dam the holes for the overflow. The front and sides i just flooded and let it flow over the edge. It self leveled to 1/8th inch. One thing worth noting is that the masking tape worked well and came up easy enough, but did cause a small raised edge (sanded down easy) and the front edge sagged a bit where it rounded over. Let me know if you have any questions. Watch a few you tube vids if you've never done it, it isn't hard to do, but there are a few tricks that really help make it pretty and easy.

Awesome - thank you for the tips!!