Someone please help
- Thread starter cashy86
- Start date
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We need pics of the tank and all animals kicking around in it, then I’ll respond with a thread that describes why your stuff stayed alive this long
if you pack fish and life in an unready tank, and feed them which I assume has happened, they all die fast.
two months means something special about your cycle if the current pics coming are not of a stinky, gray water crashing system. Two months means something about the degree of active surface area your pics are about to show. Some minimums have been met, to get along this many days with feeding. That ammonia posted above, after nh3 conversion= what every cycled reef alive shows. Things are in your favor automatically so far. The nitrite above doesn’t matter, prime use causes misreads.
if you pack fish and life in an unready tank, and feed them which I assume has happened, they all die fast.
two months means something special about your cycle if the current pics coming are not of a stinky, gray water crashing system. Two months means something about the degree of active surface area your pics are about to show. Some minimums have been met, to get along this many days with feeding. That ammonia posted above, after nh3 conversion= what every cycled reef alive shows. Things are in your favor automatically so far. The nitrite above doesn’t matter, prime use causes misreads.
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That’s a skip cycle reef. Was that live rock taken from another tank and moved into yours
second question
is that live giant blue linkia star worth a lot of money at my lfs, one of the most sensitive animals one could own from a reef?
second question
is that live giant blue linkia star worth a lot of money at my lfs, one of the most sensitive animals one could own from a reef?
But they sold you wet rock, lined in coralline or was it dry when you brought it home
the degree to which I’m shocked by your pics and overall reef quality is a very high degree of shock
we don’t usually get this degree of skip cycle proof I found a lucky hidden egg today then. the tank has been fed several times, your water is so clear the fish look suspended in air, you have the most cycled and completed reef I’ve seen all year— or all that stuff would be dead.
do nice water changes and cease adding any dosers, this cycle is done due to live rock and skip cycle transfer. I’ll get you the matching work link as soon as we confirm you added it wet to your system vs dry. Use of prime was affecting your tests, time to cease cycle testing and reef free of cycle concerns.
we fixed your cycle off tank pics, not the posted test reads.
the degree to which I’m shocked by your pics and overall reef quality is a very high degree of shock
we don’t usually get this degree of skip cycle proof I found a lucky hidden egg today then. the tank has been fed several times, your water is so clear the fish look suspended in air, you have the most cycled and completed reef I’ve seen all year— or all that stuff would be dead.
do nice water changes and cease adding any dosers, this cycle is done due to live rock and skip cycle transfer. I’ll get you the matching work link as soon as we confirm you added it wet to your system vs dry. Use of prime was affecting your tests, time to cease cycle testing and reef free of cycle concerns.
we fixed your cycle off tank pics, not the posted test reads.
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Nice, it’s that caribsea life rock they paint so well = lol still shocking
Water so clear, animals happy.
at two months post bottle bac the system is ready, you can just enjoy it now and cease dosing, cease testing for cycling params
the nitrite doesn’t matter, it’s chemically neutral in cycles and the doser Prime causes misreads. The ammonia is fine as it sits above, after nh3 conversion it lines up with what running reefs should be at
the nitrate doesn’t matter, systems range on that param independent to cycling. Your water wouldn’t be that clear if the tank wasnt ready. A blue linkia certainly wouldnt stay alive in a stuck cycle system. Here’s a matching thread like your setup, a quickly - stocked dry rock and bottle bac setup from Ike:
look how much stuff he piled on day one including a $250 anemone yep
www.reef2reef.com
your whole thread is still very very helpful in showing the ability of bottled bacteria. That’s a lot of $$ being cared for by an exceptional filter system apparently.
Water so clear, animals happy.
at two months post bottle bac the system is ready, you can just enjoy it now and cease dosing, cease testing for cycling params
the nitrite doesn’t matter, it’s chemically neutral in cycles and the doser Prime causes misreads. The ammonia is fine as it sits above, after nh3 conversion it lines up with what running reefs should be at
the nitrate doesn’t matter, systems range on that param independent to cycling. Your water wouldn’t be that clear if the tank wasnt ready. A blue linkia certainly wouldnt stay alive in a stuck cycle system. Here’s a matching thread like your setup, a quickly - stocked dry rock and bottle bac setup from Ike:
look how much stuff he piled on day one including a $250 anemone yep
Bio-spira works great
I just started a new tank a little over a week ago. I started with all dry rock and new sand. I added a bottle of Bio-Spira and put fish and coral the same day. Never saw any ammonia and fish and coral seem healthy.
www.reef2reef.com
your whole thread is still very very helpful in showing the ability of bottled bacteria. That’s a lot of $$ being cared for by an exceptional filter system apparently.
Your setup is so sharp
hey is that ocean water running the setup or just dry mix salt and the usual ro/di base water
a lot of Aus shops are selling ocean water / was wondering if yours was ocean water due to bacterial complement it brings
i see one anemone /hard to tell in pics in the middle that looks a little white, I’d lower white light levels, up the blues, and spot feed that coral better to bring it up to color
Other than that the reef looked so good I was tricked by it into thinking the rocks were perfectly pre aged underwater
hey is that ocean water running the setup or just dry mix salt and the usual ro/di base water
a lot of Aus shops are selling ocean water / was wondering if yours was ocean water due to bacterial complement it brings
i see one anemone /hard to tell in pics in the middle that looks a little white, I’d lower white light levels, up the blues, and spot feed that coral better to bring it up to color
Other than that the reef looked so good I was tricked by it into thinking the rocks were perfectly pre aged underwater
malacoda
Valuable Member
Okay, then, like Brandon has already mentioned, if your ammonia and nitrite where testing high and are now down to 0.25 on the API test kit, you're tank is definitely cycled. The fact that you have fish in there living more than a day or two is further proof it is done.
And yes, you can stop adding Stability and Prime. They aren't needed any more since your cycle is complete.
If you are still slowly losing fish after adding them, my first suspicion would be acclimation.
How have you been acclimating the fish?
That and fish disease will be a likely challenge if the fish aren’t prepped and held carefully at the pet store - rare for that to occur. Curious what disease preps are in place
per the fish disease forum we would expect challenges soon if that particular mix of tangs et al have not been prepped. Ike had some disease challenges we can see in that tank example during the first year, if we read his thread post history in his channel. Skipping the initial cycle wasn’t hard.
disease planning is really where the gold is, bottle bac has removed the concern over initial filter establishment for the hobby.
*most of the tanks in the fish disease forum today needing help followed common cycling rules of perfect zero nitrites and ammonia before beginning, that didn’t help prevent disease issues — this is why I dont equate fish disease at eight months with ignoring some nitrite at the start even if prime isn’t dosed.
per the fish disease forum we would expect challenges soon if that particular mix of tangs et al have not been prepped. Ike had some disease challenges we can see in that tank example during the first year, if we read his thread post history in his channel. Skipping the initial cycle wasn’t hard.
disease planning is really where the gold is, bottle bac has removed the concern over initial filter establishment for the hobby.
*most of the tanks in the fish disease forum today needing help followed common cycling rules of perfect zero nitrites and ammonia before beginning, that didn’t help prevent disease issues — this is why I dont equate fish disease at eight months with ignoring some nitrite at the start even if prime isn’t dosed.
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cashy86
New Member
Na I mix up my own water I brought a ro/di system as the closest Marine shop is 2 hours away. Ok with the lights I usually have white and blue on for 9hrs. 8am on 5pm off. What times do you suggest? The tank doesn't get alot of natural light. I have put a red sea light on lay-by as the standard aquaone lights don't last to long apparently. I upgraded the protein skimmer.Your setup is so sharp
hey is that ocean water running the setup or just dry mix salt and the usual ro/di base water
a lot of Aus shops are selling ocean water / was wondering if yours was ocean water due to bacterial complement it brings
i see one anemone /hard to tell in pics in the middle that looks a little white, I’d lower white light levels, up the blues, and spot feed that coral better to bring it up to color
Other than that the reef looked so good I was tricked by it into thinking the rocks were perfectly pre aged underwater
Whatever you are doing it’s great overall really, what a beautiful tank. Given that detail I’d just spot feed that middle anemone moreso and hold course with the rest, the whole system is in a prime balance for sure so far. Give the anem some rods feed injection or some tiny bits of ground up silverside fish / something meaty if possible
Do yourself a favor and throw the API Ammonia test in the garbage. If you are concerned that you might actually have some ammonia in the water then use a different test kit (just about any other brand will work better than API).
Cashy one way I could really use your thread documentation in cycling science compare and contrast works is if you’d change out water and cease dosing all supports and we get to see updates for a few months. The trust period, no supports, makes a strong case for updated cycling claims.
how the water looks and how the life lives is the determinant, not api
We want to show readers that the close of a cycle is finite, it’s a known date for any of these bottle bac cycles, see any cycling chart’s total number of days until completion, you’re two times over. You can’t have any cycling issues at this point
old cycling science approach has this duality: we quickly post a cut and paste cycling chart to new keepers when they ask about expected parameters to measure. It’s the go to reference
and then in the same swoop in another post we directly claim the chart is incorrect, claiming someone can indeed still have ammonia issues beyond day ten should API ever claim so… or nitrite issues at twice the charted max time.
If the nitrite says purple, thats a second fail of the cycling chart it doesn’t matter to the masses if you added a known test skew, Prime, it read purple; the cycle was stalled.
but by you doing a water change and exporting any doser help we focus on the excellent surface area in the middle of your wastewater, that quick swirling contact will carry all the life. the water stays clear
we gain trust in our systems, commanding the biofilter. the timing on a cycle chart is re proven.
some uglies and challenges may come, that entire succession by rule happens after filter bacteria have laid down functioning slicks. those will carry your system after the big water change and continued running.
The public benefits by seeing restored trust in basic reef surface area and we benefit by seeing that much delicate life ran in a resolved manner all based on the current health of the system. Your Api ammonia test isn’t wrong, it’s right above. we'd apply tan conversion to get nh3 then we're stating the right numbers for that test. =.02 nh3 above
which is what that test reports on running reef tanks.
change water and show em no cycles stall in reefing... in fact cycles complete very fast we can directly see above. That star fish is amazing, it’s so delicate that one minor shift in salinity can kill it. Clearly those waters are happy above
what any test kits other than seneye read on that tank will not be a better cycle assessment than seeing pics of the tank and update pics
how long after assembly did you add the life to the tank/very curious to know
have you seen that starfish directly eat added items/the tank is too clean for natural fare to support it
does it directly move over feed pellets and then the pellets are gone?
how the water looks and how the life lives is the determinant, not api
We want to show readers that the close of a cycle is finite, it’s a known date for any of these bottle bac cycles, see any cycling chart’s total number of days until completion, you’re two times over. You can’t have any cycling issues at this point
old cycling science approach has this duality: we quickly post a cut and paste cycling chart to new keepers when they ask about expected parameters to measure. It’s the go to reference
and then in the same swoop in another post we directly claim the chart is incorrect, claiming someone can indeed still have ammonia issues beyond day ten should API ever claim so… or nitrite issues at twice the charted max time.
If the nitrite says purple, thats a second fail of the cycling chart it doesn’t matter to the masses if you added a known test skew, Prime, it read purple; the cycle was stalled.
but by you doing a water change and exporting any doser help we focus on the excellent surface area in the middle of your wastewater, that quick swirling contact will carry all the life. the water stays clear
we gain trust in our systems, commanding the biofilter. the timing on a cycle chart is re proven.
some uglies and challenges may come, that entire succession by rule happens after filter bacteria have laid down functioning slicks. those will carry your system after the big water change and continued running.
The public benefits by seeing restored trust in basic reef surface area and we benefit by seeing that much delicate life ran in a resolved manner all based on the current health of the system. Your Api ammonia test isn’t wrong, it’s right above. we'd apply tan conversion to get nh3 then we're stating the right numbers for that test. =.02 nh3 above
which is what that test reports on running reef tanks.
change water and show em no cycles stall in reefing... in fact cycles complete very fast we can directly see above. That star fish is amazing, it’s so delicate that one minor shift in salinity can kill it. Clearly those waters are happy above
what any test kits other than seneye read on that tank will not be a better cycle assessment than seeing pics of the tank and update pics
how long after assembly did you add the life to the tank/very curious to know
have you seen that starfish directly eat added items/the tank is too clean for natural fare to support it
does it directly move over feed pellets and then the pellets are gone?
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