HippieSmell
Active Member
What are the best options for T12 VHO fixtures? I want to run two 72” VHO actinic bulbs, one on each side of my leds. I’m glad they still make the bulbs, but I’m having a difficult time finding suitable fixtures. Thanks!
T12 fixture options
- Thread starter HippieSmell
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Llyod276
Valuable Member
Look online, they are out there. But looks like you're gonna have to mod it a bit. This looks more like a dyi project or just get 2 of the t5 hybrids and hang them side by side. bulk reef supply had them...
Yes 6ft and vho is a dying market.
Retail 2 bulb vho magnetic ballasts are going for $250 plus.
Or $400
https://ballastshop.com/rs2s200tp-advance-magnetic-ballast/
Hmm.. $100 ones at Zoro.
Check model #
https://www.zoro.com/magnetek-rapid...eTiaqOgk40Ch09lGIVBTsHgEy6Qm3YZxoCOh4QAvD_BwE
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Sure, most "used" 660's on eek bay total around $60..
Brand new old stock around $130.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1263565855...pWVOEV9B0EPV1Tyr8F/mxWmQ==|tkp:Bk9SR-imieiwZQ
Honest question.. which ?
Magnetic (really old school) or the Electronic ones?
Or who cares.
I do know the 660's can be rebuilt/repaired.
https://www.tcmas.org/forums/threads/anyone-repaired-an-icecap-ballast.40094/
Magnetics (old enough for pcb?)?
Beat up end cap/harness kit..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3530446109...cPcIciEIwvWNNz3gqULNw83H4=|tkp:Bk9SR-amieiwZQ
PeterErc
Well-Known Member
Makes me wanna run some VHO super actinics lol
I spent more money getting 660's repaired, than what you can get them for now.
Tripple check your wiring, make sure connections are tight and bulbs secure before firing up and should be good. Replacing a ballast after an ut oh shouldnt hurt too bad either, until you run out of ut ohs
HippieSmell
Active Member
Thanks, everyone!
What is a “ut oh”? I assume magnetic ballasts overdrive the bulb and shorten lifespan, but I’ve heard of the electronic ballasts causing interference. I also think the magnetic ballasts last longer.
What about reflectors and waterproof end caps?
I’d rather stay with leds, but I’ve had multiple Orphek units burn out after a year. I don’t think the deep purple/UV leds last very long.
What is a “ut oh”? I assume magnetic ballasts overdrive the bulb and shorten lifespan, but I’ve heard of the electronic ballasts causing interference. I also think the magnetic ballasts last longer.
What about reflectors and waterproof end caps?
I’d rather stay with leds, but I’ve had multiple Orphek units burn out after a year. I don’t think the deep purple/UV leds last very long.
PeterErc
Well-Known Member
An ut oh is when the 660 ballast is wired wrong, plugged in before connections/bulbs are tight or an act of god, causing the ballast to short out.
Yes magnetic are more forgiving and potentially work longer.
T12 waterproof endcaps and the standoffs are available on flea bay
The UVL bulbs have an internal reflector make sure to purchase the right one. I think the "AquaD" did not have the reflector but could be wrong.
T5 VS T12 either would work.
T5 parts ready available
T5 HEP Group ballasts same ballast ATI uses
T5 More bulb/ replacements, endcaps, reflectors, ballasts
T5 bulbs still available more choices
T12 UVL super actinic best tube for supplemental IMO
I am guessing the tank is 72" long. I have a 150g 72x18. I ran 80w T5 bullbs . The bulbs were staggered in the canopy to get better coverage. When the diy LED fever hit drilled and tapped 2 alluminum flat stock 72 x 2 x 1/4 with 36 royal blue stars on each.
Some of those stars are in another diy over a 90g with 4 x 54w T5.
The 150 now has MH/LED using 4 aquastar g5 and diy 470/420 led strips for supplement.
Violet LED strips can be made pretty easily and not very expensive. Heatsink USA sells 1" extruded alluminum cut to legnth. Some 300-350ma constant current drivers, china LED stars in desired wavelengh attatched to heat sink with jb weld and a timer. No optics on LED. @oreo54 knows more about LED than I ever will and may have better insight on this, or maybe even rebuilding the orpheks
Yes magnetic are more forgiving and potentially work longer.
T12 waterproof endcaps and the standoffs are available on flea bay
The UVL bulbs have an internal reflector make sure to purchase the right one. I think the "AquaD" did not have the reflector but could be wrong.
T5 VS T12 either would work.
T5 parts ready available
T5 HEP Group ballasts same ballast ATI uses
T5 More bulb/ replacements, endcaps, reflectors, ballasts
T5 bulbs still available more choices
T12 UVL super actinic best tube for supplemental IMO
I am guessing the tank is 72" long. I have a 150g 72x18. I ran 80w T5 bullbs . The bulbs were staggered in the canopy to get better coverage. When the diy LED fever hit drilled and tapped 2 alluminum flat stock 72 x 2 x 1/4 with 36 royal blue stars on each.
Some of those stars are in another diy over a 90g with 4 x 54w T5.
The 150 now has MH/LED using 4 aquastar g5 and diy 470/420 led strips for supplement.
Violet LED strips can be made pretty easily and not very expensive. Heatsink USA sells 1" extruded alluminum cut to legnth. Some 300-350ma constant current drivers, china LED stars in desired wavelengh attatched to heat sink with jb weld and a timer. No optics on LED. @oreo54 knows more about LED than I ever will and may have better insight on this, or maybe even rebuilding the orpheks
You must like rock and hard places.. ;)
Things seem good for now but 36" is also an "odd" size in tubes nowadays.
But certainly better off than 72" t12's.
There are t5 sizes in that spectrum.
T12v-ho are 160 watts compared to 2 t5ho's 78 total watts or overdriven? (v-ho 60w x 2)
A bit confusing..
http://www.uvlco.com/AquariumT5.htmlThe efficiency of t12v-ho is lower though so not exactly as bad as it seems.
I assume a case will last you at least 6 years if not overdriven.
http:/r/www.uvlco.com/AquariumT5.html
HippieSmell
Active Member
Hah, I don’t like to be between rocks and hard places! I like easy and low maintenance, but I’ve had poor reliability out of LEDs in the 420nm range.
420nm LEDs ( major portion of the actinic vho) was not available and/ or had a poor lifespan.
Never was on paper crazy about Orpheks LEDs. But they made it easy to fix.
If you can solder and have a digital ohm meter you can fix Orpheks short of the sometimes odd drivers they use. You can find replacements but not always " exact" replacements. May run more or less watts than the original ones.
The good thing is many of those replacements are dimmable unlike the original drivers .
There is an embarrassing thread about how much UV is emitted by the UVL actinic. Let's leave it as not much .
420, bit of 440 leds. Problem is in the green and amber that the UVL emits naturally from the mercury emission spectrum. Adds that color "tint" that is not reproducible in leds.. well easily..
As to jb weld...well I'd go with one of the thermal silicone " glues" like "heatsink plaster".
Yea thats sort of why I got into building thing.. If I can't control the led quality I can control the ease of fixing it..
https://www.stevesleds.com/Hyper-Violet-V40_p_255.html
;)
PeterErc
Well-Known Member
Blending in a linear strip to replace a bulb would be a challengeOld " napkin" attempt..
Add a bit of green and amber to match better
Will look into the heatsink plaster for the next ghetto rig.
This is about as simple as you can get unless you go for the solderless LED.
And if it an be hidden in a canopy it's golden.
Went with these and some old meanwell 350ma drivers 20 pieces 420-430 for under 14 bux. Had some 450, 470 cheapos laying around. Decent thermal management and not overdriving and they hold on pretty good. If one diode burns out it is easy enough to replace.
The Mrs likes the windex look, so...
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