Hello all,
I set up my first reef tank when I was 14, since then, I have upgraded from a 29 to a 55, and finally to a 90. However, as a college student, I needed a mobile system. After leaving my home 90 in the responsible care of my parents, I have struggled to find an adequate new system. I needed a tank big enough to satisfy my urge to a reef, portable enough to bring back and forth from school, and functional enough to have adequate filtration.
I received an IM nuv0 20 from a friend and it worked ok, but I wasn't satisfied with the size or the filtration. As I looked for a new tank, I discovered the 33 long, it is the same footprint as a 55, only shorter. It is long and shallow, providing plenty of room for coral and fish. After further researching the 33L, I designed in tank filter boxes to achieve adequate filtration. The sump boxes will replace the need for a traditional drilled tank and sump which is far less mobile.
The tank has been running for a week now and everything is doing great. I am not sure if other members have embarked on a similar project if so, let me know your experience. Also, if anyone is curious about making a system like this, don't hesitate to ask me.
Shout out to @Chris Taylor and @Teddy Marshall the help.
Further, check out my Instagram @ruckusreef to follow any future projects.
_____________________________________________________
The build centered around the below complete tank design. In each corner, a filter-box will reside. The filter box placement allows for maximum filtration with minimal view obstruction.
The first order of business was to construct the stand. My friend @Teddy Marshall has a great workshop, so it went up pretty fast. Since the tank is only 12 inches tall, we decided to make the stand 40 inches tall, putting the tank at optimal viewing height. Below are pictures of the stand build.
After the tank arrived and the stand was completed, the filter boxes needed to be cut and installed. Below are the designs for each filter piece. I was hesitant to use acrylic at first, apparently, it doesn't bond well to glass. However, after several ridiculously high glass quotes and multiple glass shops declining to take on the project, I decided to use acrylic. After my engineering student brother (@Chris Taylor) created a DXF file saving me a $100 programming charge (the file needed for the laser to cut acrylic), the panels were completed 2 days later.
The acrylic to acrylic seal was done using plastic cement. The company that cut the acrylic occasionally constructs aquariums, they recommended an aquarium safe cement. The glass to acrylic seal was done using standard silicone. I have heard stories about acrylic not bonding to glass well, however, it appears to be very sturdy.
After the boxes were completed, the bulkheads and additional plumbing were installed. I purchased all the plumbing from Bulk Reef Supply. I was afraid some of the parts wouldn't fit, however, the website was very clear and it turned out great.
After the filtration system was complete, @Teddy Marshall and I conducted a water test.
Above: Left Filter Box
Below: Right Filter Box
The tank held water and all the seals worked (thank god). This was the first time I was able to see the pumps in action. I am running two Sicce Syncra .5 pumps (185 GPH each). I wanted to use stronger pumps to avoid using any additional circulation pumps. The total water movement is 370 GPH.
As far as filtration goes, in the right filter box, I will put chaeto in the first chamber and a cobalt neotherm heater in the second. In the left filter box, I will place chemipure and simple sponge pad in chamber 1, and phosphate/nitrate pads as needed in chamber 2. As I have never created a tank like this before, I will play around with filtration to find what works. My skimmer is rated for 75 gallons, hopefully with the chaeto's assistance, I will need minimal chemical filtration.
After the tank successfully held water, it was time for the conversion. @Teddy Marshall and I moved the tank and stand to my apartment, drained my IM 20, and set up the new 33L. I added 20lbs of live sand to the 33L and reclaimed around 15lbs of sand from my IM 20. I know some people do not recommend reusing old sand, however, I have found if you rinse it thouroughlly with fresh salt water, you can avoid a nitrate or ammonia spike as detritus is released during the rinse.
Below are pictures of my IM 20, and the new 33L setup.
Below is the complete conversion from the IM 20 to the new custom 33L. The aquascape and lights are temporary. I am waiting for my AI Prime HDs to come in the mail. Once my lights arrive, I will create a new aquascape. However, for the next few days, the old IM lights should work fine.
This was a long and new process for me. If anyone has any questions about designs, construction, or the general process, please ask. I'm sure someone has done something like this, however, I found limited resources. I'd be happy to assist anyone who wishes to venture down a similar path of DIY. Thanks!
I set up my first reef tank when I was 14, since then, I have upgraded from a 29 to a 55, and finally to a 90. However, as a college student, I needed a mobile system. After leaving my home 90 in the responsible care of my parents, I have struggled to find an adequate new system. I needed a tank big enough to satisfy my urge to a reef, portable enough to bring back and forth from school, and functional enough to have adequate filtration.
I received an IM nuv0 20 from a friend and it worked ok, but I wasn't satisfied with the size or the filtration. As I looked for a new tank, I discovered the 33 long, it is the same footprint as a 55, only shorter. It is long and shallow, providing plenty of room for coral and fish. After further researching the 33L, I designed in tank filter boxes to achieve adequate filtration. The sump boxes will replace the need for a traditional drilled tank and sump which is far less mobile.
The tank has been running for a week now and everything is doing great. I am not sure if other members have embarked on a similar project if so, let me know your experience. Also, if anyone is curious about making a system like this, don't hesitate to ask me.
Shout out to @Chris Taylor and @Teddy Marshall the help.
Further, check out my Instagram @ruckusreef to follow any future projects.
_____________________________________________________
The build centered around the below complete tank design. In each corner, a filter-box will reside. The filter box placement allows for maximum filtration with minimal view obstruction.
The first order of business was to construct the stand. My friend @Teddy Marshall has a great workshop, so it went up pretty fast. Since the tank is only 12 inches tall, we decided to make the stand 40 inches tall, putting the tank at optimal viewing height. Below are pictures of the stand build.
After the tank arrived and the stand was completed, the filter boxes needed to be cut and installed. Below are the designs for each filter piece. I was hesitant to use acrylic at first, apparently, it doesn't bond well to glass. However, after several ridiculously high glass quotes and multiple glass shops declining to take on the project, I decided to use acrylic. After my engineering student brother (@Chris Taylor) created a DXF file saving me a $100 programming charge (the file needed for the laser to cut acrylic), the panels were completed 2 days later.
The acrylic to acrylic seal was done using plastic cement. The company that cut the acrylic occasionally constructs aquariums, they recommended an aquarium safe cement. The glass to acrylic seal was done using standard silicone. I have heard stories about acrylic not bonding to glass well, however, it appears to be very sturdy.
After the boxes were completed, the bulkheads and additional plumbing were installed. I purchased all the plumbing from Bulk Reef Supply. I was afraid some of the parts wouldn't fit, however, the website was very clear and it turned out great.
After the filtration system was complete, @Teddy Marshall and I conducted a water test.
Above: Left Filter Box
Below: Right Filter Box
The tank held water and all the seals worked (thank god). This was the first time I was able to see the pumps in action. I am running two Sicce Syncra .5 pumps (185 GPH each). I wanted to use stronger pumps to avoid using any additional circulation pumps. The total water movement is 370 GPH.
As far as filtration goes, in the right filter box, I will put chaeto in the first chamber and a cobalt neotherm heater in the second. In the left filter box, I will place chemipure and simple sponge pad in chamber 1, and phosphate/nitrate pads as needed in chamber 2. As I have never created a tank like this before, I will play around with filtration to find what works. My skimmer is rated for 75 gallons, hopefully with the chaeto's assistance, I will need minimal chemical filtration.
After the tank successfully held water, it was time for the conversion. @Teddy Marshall and I moved the tank and stand to my apartment, drained my IM 20, and set up the new 33L. I added 20lbs of live sand to the 33L and reclaimed around 15lbs of sand from my IM 20. I know some people do not recommend reusing old sand, however, I have found if you rinse it thouroughlly with fresh salt water, you can avoid a nitrate or ammonia spike as detritus is released during the rinse.
Below are pictures of my IM 20, and the new 33L setup.
Below is the complete conversion from the IM 20 to the new custom 33L. The aquascape and lights are temporary. I am waiting for my AI Prime HDs to come in the mail. Once my lights arrive, I will create a new aquascape. However, for the next few days, the old IM lights should work fine.
This was a long and new process for me. If anyone has any questions about designs, construction, or the general process, please ask. I'm sure someone has done something like this, however, I found limited resources. I'd be happy to assist anyone who wishes to venture down a similar path of DIY. Thanks!
Last edited: