I have a 240 coming and you all really have me questioning myself.
Thanks, I guess.
Thanks, I guess.
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I was going to disagree with this since fish can loose their adaptive immunity in 6 months after last contact with a parasite, but it looks like others beat me to it. I'm slacking today.
This is definitely true - but - I disagree with you on the timing. The 10 days you're quoting is 'the norm'. But - So was @HotRocks idea about 1.75 ppm and 14 days being sufficient for velvet - but it was proven incorrect (because I don't believe @HotRocks made a mistake in his QT practices). Perhaps its time to start listening to 'new information' (myself included) - rather than resort to data collected in the 1990's?I agree with this, when it comes to Ich and Velvet anyway. The actual exposure to copper to kill the freshly hatched parasite is measured in seconds, not hours. Certainly not weeks. If the concentration is high enough, 10 days is more than enough and 14 days provides a 35% margin. Most of the variables in timing of the lifecycle have no impact while on the fish.
See, this is why I don’t do long posts or get riled up. ;Sorry
Now i fell horrible. I am shunned by the reefsquad and i have insulted a good portion of some most knowledgeable and giving people. I myself in my short time have turned to you guys in times I doubted myself or if someone else could use the help.
Especially @ngoodermuth and @Frtdrmrose7 . If there is an emergency you guys are always there. When I read, and re-read your posts to learn there is always a tone of let’s help and see what we can do. You guided @Mjrenz thru 50 years of fish keeping in one thread, and did it successfully, and something to be celebrated.
I agree with this, but (and I’ll keep it short:)). Why must there be a “cure”? If there is a parasite in the tank, (except velvet and brook) it is in the tank.People call it management. I think a better term is a balancing the ecosystem we have. Replicate nature. We can’t manage ich expect QT, we can manage the fish by providing them the same tools as what they would get in the wild.
To sum up, this is getting into the long area I stay away from. So sorry to all, I do not like being controversial. The whole point I was going for was spurred on not by any illness thread but someone in the new section being schooled on QT.
Ps. Please don’t take away my hospitality badge
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So brutal! Lol:). You are the true definition of a professionalYou haven’t been shunned! Please don’t feel bad, I just wanted to make sure to give the disease team - and I don’t mean myself, but humblefish, hot rocks, 4fordfamily, and many others who have devoted very large amounts of time there- get the credit they deserve. They’ve been so helpful to me any countess others. It’s hard not to get a little protective ;)
You’ve been very courteous overall since joining, and I appreciate what you contribute to the community. I’m not upset and I don’t hold it against you :)
I'm not sure this is a good analogy. A person can get a smallpox vaccine and be protected for life. Let's say a person needed to be exposed to smallpox at least once a year to keep their immunity. Any contact with smallpox after that one year greatly increased their odds of dying from smallpox. Would it benefit them to be exposed at least annually? I feel so. This is more how the fish immune system works.You're taking what I (meant) a bit out of context (the comment was addressed to those who feel the more life in the tank the better) - on the surface - there is no advantage to having these parasites in a tank. I was replying to the comment that the more life the better. Just like with smallpox, malaria, etc there is no advantage to humans to have these parasites.
Very true... when I have seen this referenced it is the mean time where re-exposure to the parasite is more likely to cause a statistically significant chance at increased mortality rates. For some fish this process began in under 4 months. Some still had a strong immune response at almost a year. And the immunity gradually fades, it isn't instant.There are some comments out there that even without re-exposure - there still is some immune 'memory' though it does decrease somewhat between 3 and 6 months. Another common misconception - at 6 months -1 day - there is not immunity and at 6 months +1 day - the immunity is gone. No one knows how long the immunity lasts - only that it starts to wane.
Is there "new information" that says either parasite can stay on a fish for over 9 days?This is definitely true - but - I disagree with you on the timing. The 10 days you're quoting is 'the norm'. But - So was @HotRocks idea about 1.75 ppm and 14 days being sufficient for velvet - but it was proven incorrect (because I don't believe @HotRocks made a mistake in his QT practices). Perhaps its time to start listening to 'new information' (myself included) - rather than resort to data collected in the 1990's?
QT!:)Wow what a thead. Now that we are all friends how are we going to handle the rest of the world? ;)
I've never understood why proper QT & proper nutrition need to be mutually exclusive. You can soak food in fish oil (and feed other vitamin enriched foods) whilst in QT just as easily as you can in a DT. :p Take my advice when it comes to QT, but listen to people like @atoll @Paul B @robert once your fish is in the DT ... and you & your fish will be happy happy happy. :D
The big issue is most people do not search and read/research when they have an issue. They just start a new thread without enough real information to be able to even help them without asking 20 questions. Then they reply with all parameters are good, yet when asked specific questions they do not even know what their basic parameters are. I have gotten tired of have to ask 20 questions to be able to try to help someone. Sometimes I just don't have the time to do so.I’ve MANY times provided links to ich management articles and threads, to try to help someone if they can’t or won’t QT and are in crisis. I’ve also addressed nutrition many times as well, so have many others I’ve seen, especially with cases involving HLLE and bacterial issues. The only goal for me, is helping the fish the best way that I feel I can, in the order, in my own opinion, of what I think is most likely to save the fish.
Not every thread is an emergency, but many times by the time the issue has reached the disease forum... it’s beyond the issue of QT or not QT, or how much or how well you are feeding. If something isn’t done, they will die.
I commend you for what you are doing with managing ich in your tank, your purple tang does look better!
But, if you’d already lost half of your fish and the rest were breathing fast and covered in velvet..you’d be past the point of being able to manage the parasites. At that point, it’s a crisis... and in my personal experience... requires intervention.
I don’t think it’s fair to bash the disease forum team for offering advice on treating sick fish. There are many fish that have survived because of the advice we offer, too.
I'm not sure this is a good analogy. A person can get a smallpox vaccine and be protected for life. Let's say a person needed to be exposed to smallpox at least once a year to keep their immunity. Any contact with smallpox after that one year greatly increased their odds of dying from smallpox. Would it benefit them to be exposed at least annually? I feel so. This is more how the fish immune system works.
Very true... when I have seen this referenced it is the mean time where re-exposure to the parasite is more likely to cause a statistically significant chance at increased mortality rates. For some fish this process began in under 4 months. Some still had a strong immune response at almost a year. And the immunity gradually fades, it isn't instant.
Is there "new information" that says either parasite can stay on a fish for over 9 days?
What if there was an alternative method from the very beginning, starting at fish 1. I just purchased my first fish. I have that QT set up, but no meds. Unless there is visible, or very mild signs no meds are given. Diet is the only thing given. After say 2 weeks of proper diet and no signs he goes in the DT. If he survived anything he had in QT then reasonable that it would not change when moved. Not saying that the first fishy was sterile/disease free, but is healthy. Then mr fish #2 arrives. Same thing. QT, observe and feed. No sign he then goes in, now if he does bring in something new the first guy has a better chance of surviving the newly introduced pathogen.. The second will be fine sine he is eating healthy and nothing has shown up during observation. Again not saying parasite free, but build an environment where immune systems do what they are supposed to. Than add fish 3,4,5 and so on.
Is there "new information" that says either parasite can stay on a fish for over 9 days?
Is there "new information" that says either parasite can stay on a fish for over 9 days?
There is also 'this': http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/FA/FA16400.pdf
Chloroquine, a quinine derivative, and other related compounds have been recommended for use againstCryptocaryon and other protozoan parasites includingAmyloodinium (Dickerson 2006; Stoskopf 1993; Noga 1996; Roberts et al. 2009; I Berzins, pers. comm.; T. Clauss, pers. comm.). One recommended treatment regimen is 10 mg/L chloroquine diphosphate as a prolonged bath; duration of 2 to 3 weeks or more may be required. Chloroquine appears to be fairly stable. If water changes are necessary, redose in amounts proportional to quantity of water removed.
One other item that hasn’t been discussed is whether we should be removing fish from the ocean and putting them in our tanks anyway. It seems a majority of the fish most people keep in their aquariums are available as captive bred specimens at this point in time. The ones that haven’t been captive bred tend to be more difficult to keep. We don’t get dogs and cats from the wild. Why should “pet fish” be any different.
Most companies that are captively breeding fish have already eliminated most if not all of the problematic diseases/parasites from their systems and have staff to accurately treat new specimens. If the entire supply chain switched to using captive bred fish (and inverts) instead of wild caught fish, many diseases could easily be significantly reduced or eliminated.
This right here is a big reason why people should be worried and why this thread is important. Medication access is going to get harder (and already is for a lot of people), medication resistance may already be here and if it is will only increase, fallow periods may not be long enough. You can QT everything as strictly as you want, but the chance of a devastating outbreak is always still there. Why not try to find methods that might be able to stop or mitigate any possible outbreaks?For example - I reported that at the National zoo - they had velvet show up 65 days after starting an observational quarantine - yet some people here may say '14 days' or '30 days' observation is good enough - then wonder 'how did I get velvet after QT.
I asked this question in another thread but got no response. Has anybody thought of or tried to use a product like dino x to rid velvet? I already ordered some so I guess I will see soon enough. Anybody know what is the active ingredient in Dino X? At $30 for 250ml, 6ml/26 gallon treatment and up to 10 treatments to kill dinoflagellants, it could get a bit expensive in a 250 gallon system.This right here is a big reason why people should be worried and why this thread is important. Medication access is going to get harder (and already is for a lot of people), medication resistance may already be here and if it is will only increase, fallow periods may not be long enough. You can QT everything as strictly as you want, but the chance of a devastating outbreak is always still there. Why not try to find methods that might be able to stop or mitigate any possible outbreaks?
You can do TTM for ich and then observe for a month but there is still no guarantees you aren't introducing velvet into your tank.
I asked this question in another thread but got no response. Has anybody thought of or tried to use a product like dino x to rid velvet? I already ordered some so I guess I will see soon enough. Anybody know what is the active ingredient in Dino X? At $30 for 250ml, 6ml/26 gallon treatment and up to 10 treatments to kill dinoflagellants, it could get a bit expensive in a 250 gallon system.
Ah, I am familiar with this. I was thinking there may have been a new study where it had been documented to happen at more normal tank conditions. I'm not saying it isn't possible only that I haven't seen it confirmed yet, either."Tomites actively feeding at this point are in the trophont stage. In controlled experiments, the parasite has remained in the fish's gills or just under the skin for 4 to 5 months at reduced temperatures (12 C (53.6 F), then developed and infected other fish when the water temperature was raised to 27 C (80.6 F)."
So - it appears that there is a temperature dependence (to me) does this mean that at 74 degrees that its 7 days or 13 days?
I don't think I am inconsistent. In the cases where an immunity won't last we provide those boosters.Because you literally can't have it both ways - and argue both sides constructively - or? Take the typhoid fever vaccine or the rabies vaccine in dogs etc - there are many many examples of needing more than one exposure to maintain immunity.